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Old 10-04-05, 10:31 PM   #1
hojo12
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Crown Race and Lower Bearing Spacing on Integrated headset??

I am a newbie... and I am sure this is an easy question, put I just want to double check!
I am installing a new carbon fork and Cane Creek IS6 headset on my bike (yes the frame/head tube are compatible). When I put the crown race on the steerer tube it slid easily until it was approx. 5m from the fork crown and I worked it down the rest of the way by hand. When I put the lower bearing on it also stops at the same spot, about 5mm above the fork crown, but doesn't easily slide down any further. I assume that this is where a slide hammer or pipe come into play, but i wanted to make sure the lower bearing wasnt suppose to slide all the way down.. before I force it down further.. Also is there any risk of damaging the bearing cartridge?

Thanks for the advice!
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Old 10-05-05, 04:05 AM   #2
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The crown race must be fully seated. It is a very tight fit by design and needs to be driven home. Ideally you would use a crown race seating tool or a large diameter piece of pipe. If you are patient and careful, you can seat it with a drift and hammer. One other tip. Since integrated headsets don't tighten down with a bolt like regular headsets, I've found it handy to assemble everything except the top cap and line up the stem properly with the front wheel. Then I tighten the bolts on the steerer end of the stem just a little. I tap the top of the steerer with a mallet to seat it well. Then I can tighten the bolts and install the top cap. The result should be a headset and steerer with no play side to side, no rattling in use and complete freedom of movement around the head tube. Good luck.
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Old 10-05-05, 07:03 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by fmw
The crown race must be fully seated. It is a very tight fit by design and needs to be driven home. Ideally you would use a crown race seating tool or a large diameter piece of pipe. If you are patient and careful, you can seat it with a drift and hammer. One other tip. Since integrated headsets don't tighten down with a bolt like regular headsets, I've found it handy to assemble everything except the top cap and line up the stem properly with the front wheel. Then I tighten the bolts on the steerer end of the stem just a little. I tap the top of the steerer with a mallet to seat it well. Then I can tighten the bolts and install the top cap. The result should be a headset and steerer with no play side to side, no rattling in use and complete freedom of movement around the head tube. Good luck.
Integrated HS use a bolt in the topcap to set bearing preload like any other threadless type. Suggest you check www.parktool.com repair section. I Have no cule what that the underlined stuff it trying to get at other than trying to make something that is relatively easy, incomprehensible.
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Old 10-05-05, 07:05 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hojo12
I am a newbie... and I am sure this is an easy question, put I just want to double check!
I am installing a new carbon fork and Cane Creek IS6 headset on my bike (yes the frame/head tube are compatible). When I put the crown race on the steerer tube it slid easily until it was approx. 5m from the fork crown and I worked it down the rest of the way by hand. When I put the lower bearing on it also stops at the same spot, about 5mm above the fork crown, but doesn't easily slide down any further. I assume that this is where a slide hammer or pipe come into play, but i wanted to make sure the lower bearing wasnt suppose to slide all the way down.. before I force it down further.. Also is there any risk of damaging the bearing cartridge?

Thanks for the advice!
The crown race should be a tight fit. The lower beeaing should slide into place easily.You don't use a slide hammer on the bearing.
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