bikeybikebike

Hi all

I just picked up an abandoned norco roadie from who knows when...
I'm planning on fixing it up as a beater so that I can ride a bike places without constantly fearing for my bike. The bike's a double x 5 roadie, friction shifters, with platform pedals. This is as much about learning as it is about the bike!

A few questions:


1) the bike appears to have been a bit weathered - the frame is solid and rust free, but the handlebars show a bit of surface rust. Is it safe?

2) The bike's been a bit damp, the rear wheel clicks pretty loudly when when rolling. Do I need to worry about the bearings in the hub?

3) The front cog appears to be slightly bent.. can I repair it?

4) The front cogs and rear cassette are rusty, do I need to replace them?

5) The chain was rusted stuck, so I've already picked up a chain remover and a new chain.. I have yet to find out whether or not the bike actually shifts.

6) Finally, If everthing goes wrong I'm not opposed to converting it to a fixed gear, although it would require some clipless pedals. Regardless, I've been looking for a pair of shoes and clips that would allow me to walk around comfortably when I run errands...any ideas?

Is there anything else you recommend I look into for safety reasons?

And obviously, does anyone have a cheap source for anything that needs to be replaced?

Thanks!

sydney

You would be money ahead to pick up a $25-50 garage sale or thrift store bike that has fewer issues to start with.Why start with a POC and pour more mone into it just because it was free. Makes no sense.But maybe sydney doesn't smoke enough carpet, or need theapy.

Bikewer

I have re-done a number of bikes in this shape, but I usually plan to spend hours working on them. Surface rust is no problem, and the friction shifters will probably be OK, but you may have to take them apart and clean them.
Derailleurs will probably be cruddy and not move freely, plan on cleaning and lubing.
Surface rust on the rear cogs is no big problem, as long as the freewheel/freehub turns freely. That clicking may indeed indicate your hubs need rebuilding; I find this is generally the case with bikes that have been left out for a long time. As long as the cones are not pitted, it's just grease and bearings, and time...

Like the other guy said, it may not be "worthwhile" in terms of time/money, but it can also be a fun project.

bikeybikebike

ARE YOU CALLING MY BIKE A PIECE OF CRAP?!!! WHY YI OTTTTAA!!!

but seriously, i know i could find something better, but this one just fell into my lap, and I'm just trying to:

a) see if it's salvageable
b) learn stuff

If the things I mentioned above are bad enough to require replacement, then I would consider just chucking the bike into a dumpster and looking for one as you suggest. But I'd prefer to get a little wrench time (experience and mistake making!!) in on an expendable bike. If i totally F it up, I wont cry!

So what do you think?

jeff williams

Off the top of my head, that new chains a waste on rusted rings\cluster.
I'd suggest the drive needs replacement.
You have one part-Chain.

I'd flush the rear hub bearings and pack with new grease.
Maybe hunt around for some better drive parts off a salvage bike.

If a drive has been run on a stretched chain -the whole drive is replaced.
A drive that runs a stretched chain is 'mated' by wear -run it till it's dead.
A new drive, replace chain before stretch and you'll go through several before the rings\cluster are worn.

All I got for you. Try to find a used rear wheel\cluster same spd that's not shot.
Then all you need are rings.

You might as well make it 6spd. Might as well do the SS.
Some bikes are worth work, others not.

SSRI

hey before you even start, how does the bike fit

jeff williams

Good point!

robo

Even if you just want to learn about bike mechanics, it might be frustrating with a rusted hulk of a low end machine.

I know the feeling of wanting to make something out of what you have there, but sometimes the correct answer is to walk away.

Judging by the steel handlebars and the brand name, it's a low end bike. If you had a really beautiful bike in the condition described, it might be worth it, but a bike that originally cost $200 in 1983? Probably not.

LóFarkas

6: If you do, get an MTB non-racing shoe with a relatively flexible sole (Adidas Minnret, Specialized Taho etc.)and eggbeater pedals. The 'beaters have a lower-profile cleat that won't clickety-clack when you walk on them, even when the sole of the shoe starts to wear. They are nice first-clipless-pedals.

If the cogs and chainrings don't look too worn, take everything apart (bearings, shifters, cables...) clean, sand off surface rust, lube, reassemble, and test ride to see if the drive train works or not.

HillRider

Take the hubs, headset and bottom bracket apart and clean and relube them before you ever ride the bike. A bike that has been sitting that long will probably have the grease dried out and solidified.

About two years ago I got a mid-80's Bridgestone from my brother that he had ridden about 200 miles on it when new but hadn't been touched it since then. The components were in like-new shape but the grease was the consistancy of dried rubber cement. A thorough cleaning and relubing was all it needed to perform like new.

bikeybikebike

Hey all,

Thanks for all your advice... the bike seems to fit alright, given I haven't been able to ride it yet, just sit on it.

I'm going to take the common advice and tear the whole bike down.. try greasing everything and seeing how it goes. I figure if too many things need replacing I'll just chuck it out and convert it to a fixie... but that's a whole other matter.

BTW thanks for the advice on the shoes/pedals!