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can't get my rear tire back on

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can't get my rear tire back on

Old 10-11-05, 09:29 PM
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can't get my rear tire back on

just got raleigh flyer from e bay Lbs removed rear wheel to ship can't get to go back on Jay
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Old 10-12-05, 04:59 AM
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It's common on older bikes to have narrower spacing between the rear dropouts than newer bikes. This is a common problem when you need to replace a rear wheel on certain older models. Does the rear wheel look newer or non period correct when compared to the rest of the bike? If so this is likely your problem. What you should do is get a helper and one of you work on getting the wheel in the dropouts while the other pushes the rear seat and or chainstays outward. Usually it doesn't take too much and it won't hurt the frame any (especially if its steel, if its aluminum i wouldnt push too hard). Good luck
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Old 10-12-05, 08:58 AM
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Also, rear wheels can be a pain in the butt, and you will have to get your hands a little dirty especially if you have not done it before. Just remember that the rear derailleur can be swung at two pivot points, both at its joint with the frame, and also the sprung derailleur arm joint. If you work these two joints to open up the chain, then get the rear cogs between the chains, and keep the derailleur from blocking the dropout, then you should be ok.
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Old 10-12-05, 09:31 AM
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Make sure the drive side axle is positioned between the upper and lower parts of the chain. The small cog should engage the chain as you push it in.
Are the frame dropouts vertical or horizontal?
As above, older (steel) frames may have a 126mm dropout spacing. You can force in a 130mm wheel without to many issues, just spread the frame by hand and it will spring back over the axle.
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Old 10-12-05, 07:26 PM
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Push her legs apart gently and ease it on in.
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Old 10-12-05, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by schang
Also, rear wheels can be a pain in the butt, and you will have to get your hands a little dirty especially if you have not done it before. Just remember that the rear derailleur can be swung at two pivot points, both at its joint with the frame, and also the sprung derailleur arm joint. If you work these two joints to open up the chain, then get the rear cogs between the chains, and keep the derailleur from blocking the dropout, then you should be ok.
I second this idea... correct dropout spacing but the derailer pulley has moved too far inward.
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Old 10-12-05, 10:51 PM
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Thanks guys Jay
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