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Thread: Radial Twist?

  1. #1
    如果你能讀了這個你講中文 genericbikedude's Avatar
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    Radial Twist?

    Browsing fixedgeargallery, I came across this beauty (attached). What blew me away was the front wheel--it looks awesome! Perhaps of dubious practicality, perhaps stronger than a regular radial lacing--I'm not sure. Either way, I'm considering trying it. Has anyone attempted this? What spokes do you recommend? How many times do you twist them? How do you calculate the length? How strong will this build be? Safe for street?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Flying Pig rolliepollie's Avatar
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    I'm no physicist, but I'm skeptical of the strength of that spoke design. First, the spokes' angles to each nipple are greater - could mean more stress on them. Then the forces on the wheels would naturally (try to) pull each spoke straight. Since they're twisted and Then bent at half their length, the spokes might be more stressed at that area than normal, where the "twisting" ends. Then again, these might not affect the wheel's integrity all that much. Just some things you might want to factor in if you're to compare its strength to "traditional" designs. They do look cool btw.

  3. #3
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    I built a bunch of these over the years. I never have had one break a spoke, or even had problems with them staying true. Use a one or two cross pattern* and twist the crossing spoke 360 and put it to the same hole you would with an ordinary build. Add a mm to the spoke length you have calculated.

    *Three would be better for the rear, but I built a two cross twisted for my wife about four years ago and have never needed to true it.

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    Well, steel cables are twisted together....

  5. #5
    feros ferio John E's Avatar
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    It should work OK, but I don't see any real benefit other than aesthetics.
    "Early to bed, early to rise. Work like hell, and advertise." -- George Stahlman
    Capo [dschaw'-poe]: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger, S/N 42624
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    如果你能讀了這個你講中文 genericbikedude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck
    I built a bunch of these over the years. I never have had one break a spoke, or even had problems with them staying true. Use a one or two cross pattern* and twist the crossing spoke 360 and put it to the same hole you would with an ordinary build. Add a mm to the spoke length you have calculated.

    *Three would be better for the rear, but I built a two cross twisted for my wife about four years ago and have never needed to true it.
    did you use butted or straight? do you think it matters? how about high-flange vs low?

  7. #7
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    I used butted spokes, they twist easier. I don't think the flange would make a difference but I have never done one with pitch circle larger than 45mm

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    Senior Member miamijim's Avatar
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    I've done a bunch over the years as well. Do what Chuck said.
    WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma; 1991 Paramount PDG 70 Mtb; 1976? AD Vent Noir; 1989 LeMond Maillot Juane F&F; 1993? Basso GAP F&F; 1989 Terry Symmetry; 2003 Trek 4700 Mtb; 1983 Vitus 979

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