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  1. #1
    I couldn't car less. jeff williams's Avatar
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    Older threaded headset, the quill stem wont pull out?

    ? Peugeot PX, the headset is original, only difference I see is that instead of a hex bolt to run into the steerer\wedge it has a bolt with a nut on top instead of hex.

    Well the bolts out, the stem turns in the headset but will not pull up and out.
    Have I missed something? The hex bolt quill stems came out -is this possibly different.

    It's soaking in wd-40, 2 guys pulling at it, I'm not so into the hammer method unless last resort.
    Headset is original Peugeot stuff, not corroded.
    Are there diff 'versions' of quill stem\headsets from France?

    Thanks, my buddies bike so I'm less into the 'tough love' I'd do if he wasn't looking.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Old Hammer Boy's Avatar
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    It could be wedged or corroded to such a degree that you'll have to put in a bolt, replacing the origional one, pound it down to loosen the assembly. Perhaps after the WD soaks in, you may be able to fish it out, but I bet it's the wedge binding the thing up. OHB

  3. #3
    I couldn't car less. jeff williams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Hammer Boy
    It could be wedged or corroded to such a degree that you'll have to put in a bolt, replacing the origional one, pound it down to loosen the assembly. Perhaps after the WD soaks in, you may be able to fish it out, but I bet it's the wedge binding the thing up. OHB
    Yes exactly, we threaded the bolt back in leaving say 2 cm exposed and smacked the wedge off inside the end of the quill.

    Not a wedge, flat round bolt, the old stem bottom end flat as well.
    The bottom of the quill cylinder was cut 8 slots vertical 2 inches, the nut\wedge goes inside then flanges by forcing the tube slats outward.

    Different fer sure, not seen by me before.
    We're good to go, thanks.

  4. #4
    Curmudgeon Wil Davis's Avatar
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    I'm not sure of your location, but when I lived in the UK, I used "Plus Gas" releasing agent to help disassemble corroded exhaust systems. I used it recently to free a seized pedal (it had been assembled without grease, and the steel axle had seized to the aluminium crank arm). "Plus-Gas" dripped onto the thread and left for an hour or so worked wonderfully! Look around for an equivalent - good luck!

    - Wil

  5. #5
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff williams
    Yes exactly, we threaded the bolt back in leaving say 2 cm exposed and smacked the wedge off inside the end of the quill.

    Not a wedge, flat round bolt, the old stem bottom end flat as well.
    The bottom of the quill cylinder was cut 8 slots vertical 2 inches, the nut\wedge goes inside then flanges by forcing the tube slats outward.


    Different fer sure, not seen by me before.
    We're good to go, thanks.
    That's a nasty beastie. The base of the quill takes a permanent set wedged against the inside of the steerer.Something to try is tro go in from the bottom with something that would woerk similar to a Park HS cup removal tool and try tapping or pounding from ethe bottom.

  6. #6
    I couldn't car less. jeff williams's Avatar
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    I can see why the industry went to the angled offset wedge.
    No corrosion on the stem or inside tube. Bikes nice for 70's.

  7. #7
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    The plug type expander was still being used in 2002.

  8. #8
    I couldn't car less. jeff williams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sydney
    The plug type expander was still being used in 2002.
    Really, I seldom work on road bikes, old mtb's with quills yes -not seen one like that.
    Is there a reason for this system? I guess it is a good strong mating.

    Plug type expander eh...everyday a new bit o' knowledge.

  9. #9
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    Try this. Remove front wheel. Flip bike over. You should be able to use a long blade screwdriver and give it a moderate wack.The wedge looks like an exploded cork? I'd soak it with WD-40, and or Liquid Wrench.

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