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Old 10-28-05, 07:55 PM   #1
CRG
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Tool recommendation for everyone

Today I used the best set of hex head wrenches ever. Click here for a description. They were a brand from Germany called Wiha but the feature that set them apart from anything I have ever seen was called MagicRing, basically it was machined so you could not drop a screw. Visit the url where is says "Click here for description" to learn more.

Also while I have this thread started, for standard bicycle repairs and maintenance would I need any other sized than the following: 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0 6.0, 8.0, 10 ? Thanks
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Old 10-28-05, 08:10 PM   #2
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Magnitized tools aren't anything new. I can magnitize a screwdriver with the anvil end of a bench vise.

You'll need a 3.5mm to adjust Campy Delta brakes.
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Old 10-28-05, 08:12 PM   #3
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That's one of those features that causes me to say "Why didn't I think of that?"

For my bike, just about all work is done with 2, 4, 5, 8 mm hex sizes. Personally, on my workbench, I use hex bit sockets with 1/4 or 3/8" drive socket handle or spinner - better feel, control and strength.

I have to use a 11mm hex bit to remove my Bontrager freehub, but 11mm = 7/16". I think this 11mm is an odd ball in the world of freehub fastener.
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Old 10-28-05, 08:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDan
Magnitized tools aren't anything new. I can magnitize a screwdriver with the anvil end of a bench vise.
.

It's not by magentic attraction, but rather a compression ring that is compressed when inserted into the hex socket. The expanding ring creates enough friction to secure the fastener to the tool. This mechanical gripping action allows the tool to work with non-ferrous and stainless steel fasteners.
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Old 10-28-05, 08:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MudPie
It's not by magentic attraction, but rather a compression ring that is compressed when inserted into the hex socket. The expanding ring creates enough friction to secure the fastener to the tool. This mechanical gripping action allows the tool to work with non-ferrous and stainless steel fasteners.
I need to lay off the...
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Old 10-28-05, 11:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razrcide
Also while I have this thread started, for standard bicycle repairs and maintenance would I need any other sized than the following: 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0, 5.0 6.0, 8.0, 10 ? Thanks
Those are the ones I have in my tool kit. Personally I rather like my ball tipped Allen brand wrenches, but those do look interesting.
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Old 10-29-05, 03:28 AM   #7
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Those would be just the ticket for those of us anal enough to replace every fastener on our bike with titanium ones...
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Old 10-29-05, 03:50 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Expatriate
Those would be just the ticket for those of us anal enough to replace every fastener on our bike with titanium ones...
Not that you'd know anyone like that. As for me I'd replace mine with all stainless
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Old 10-29-05, 04:19 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
Not that you'd know anyone like that. As for me I'd replace mine with all stainless
I did that with one of my Toyota Landcruisers. $220 in fasteners is a lot of twenty cent washers and 50 cent bolts. Nothing wrong with a little OC behaviour.
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Old 10-29-05, 07:17 AM   #10
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For the 8 mm and 10 mm hexes I use 3/8" drive socket bits. These sizes can see a lot of torque (crank bolts and freehub body hollow bolts) and a ratchet and/or torque wrench require sockets.

I make these myself by cutting straight sections from regular hex keys with a Dremel cut-off wheel and epoxying the stub into a socket. They are a lot cheaper than premade bits and easy to replace when the hexes get worn. I've made up a set of 4,5 and 6 mmm bits in 1/4" drive sockets the same way and these are very handy when used with a ratchet or a 1/4" drive screwdriver handle.
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Old 10-29-05, 03:13 PM   #11
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I recall my hex socket set from Sears being really inexpensive. And much harder than the hex keys you're cutting with a Dremel. To each his own I suppose.
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Old 10-29-05, 06:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Expatriate
I recall my hex socket set from Sears being really inexpensive. And much harder than the hex keys you're cutting with a Dremel. To each his own I suppose.
First, the Sears Craftsman hex sockets aren't inexpensive and the bits get worn after a lot of use so you are in for a fairly high cost reasonably often if you do a lot of bike work. I do.

Second, a Dremel cut-off wheel will cut through any metal including excellent quality hex keys. There is no steel hard enough to give them any problems, including a file which is much harder than any hex key. You just have to work slowly and keep the steel cool by dipping it occasionally in water. These things will cut glass and ceramics so any steel is a piece of cake to them.

As a side note, you CANNOT cut decent quality hex keys with a hack saw.
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