Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-30-05, 01:57 PM   #1
georgiaboy
Retro-nerd
Thread Starter
 
georgiaboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Morningside - Atlanta
Bikes: 1991 Serotta Colorado II, 1986 Vitus 979, 1971 Juene Classic, 2008 Surly Crosscheck, 1949 Riva Sport
Posts: 1,583
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I am building a bicycle with Ultegra double on the front with XT on the rear. The cassete will be
XT 11-34. In shopping for the right XT derailleur I found 3 different ones.

They are:

Mid-cage(M-760 GS 9-speed), Long Cage (M-760 SGS 9-speed), and Top Normal (M-751 SGS).

Which one should I use?

What are the differences?

Thanks
georgiaboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-05, 02:07 PM   #2
sydney
Senior Member
 
sydney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 9,428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
You match cage length to the total wrap capacity you neeed. Top normal or hi normal is the way a convention RD works: with no cable attached the derailer spring pulls it to the small cog position.
sydney is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-05, 02:19 PM   #3
Mentor58
'Mizer Cats are INSANE
 
Mentor58's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Clarksville, TN
Bikes: C-dale T800
Posts: 808
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sydney
You match cage length to the total wrap capacity you neeed. Top normal or hi normal is the way a convention RD works: with no cable attached the derailer spring pulls it to the small cog position.
And if you plan on using brifters, you probably want to go with the high-normal one. That way the brifters will shift normally. If you go with the 'low-normal' they will work, but things will be backward from normal. (ie, if you sweep the brake lever, you will end up in the higher gears, and the trigger will shift to the lower gears)

Steve W.
Mentor58 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-05, 04:08 PM   #4
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,776
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Your chain wrap needs are (53-39) + (34-11) or 37 total teeth. Use the rear derailleur that has at least that capacity and will clear a 34T cog. Shimano's specs should let you pick the suitable model.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-05, 04:49 PM   #5
georgiaboy
Retro-nerd
Thread Starter
 
georgiaboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Morningside - Atlanta
Bikes: 1991 Serotta Colorado II, 1986 Vitus 979, 1971 Juene Classic, 2008 Surly Crosscheck, 1949 Riva Sport
Posts: 1,583
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks for the replies. I have been checking on some specs for other builds and it seems I should move down to a 11-32 cassette. This information is very helpful. I have never noticed "chain wrap" or "hi, low, normal" before.
georgiaboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:43 AM.