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Old 11-01-05, 02:18 PM   #1
MrCjolsen
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Front hub. Did I do this right?

It was making a noise. And was a little loose.

Took it apart. Liberally put some grease all over and around the bearings. it. Tightened it. Oops, too tight. loosened it and figured out how a cone wrench works. Got is just right.

Noise gone. No more wobble.

I know this is no substitute for replacing the bearings, but it's my beater bike that I traded a couch for in 1992. It was old then.
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Old 11-01-05, 02:23 PM   #2
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What I mean is can I ride the bike around and not worry about the front wheel freezing up or falling off?
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Old 11-01-05, 02:23 PM   #3
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Sounds good to me.
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Old 11-01-05, 02:42 PM   #4
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If it spins smooth with no wobbling, you did good. Check the Park Tools website to verify your handiwork.
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Old 11-01-05, 03:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCjolsen
It was making a noise. And was a little loose.

Took it apart. Liberally put some grease all over and around the bearings. it. Tightened it. Oops, too tight. loosened it and figured out how a cone wrench works. Got is just right.

Noise gone. No more wobble.

I know this is no substitute for replacing the bearings, but it's my beater bike that I traded a couch for in 1992. It was old then.
Sounds good. A couple of things I'd do is to put a little (and I mean a little) play back in the adjustment if it has a quick release. The quick release will tighten up the bearings when it's forced into place and this can bind the wheel a little bit. Not a big problem really but a little play in the bearings will take care of it.

The other thing to do is to tighten the cones against the lock nut. This keeps them from working loose later.
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Old 11-01-05, 03:14 PM   #6
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Works for me, but bearings are so cheap it's silly not to replace when you've got the hub apart.
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Old 11-01-05, 07:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyccommute
The other thing to do is to tighten the cones against the lock nut. This keeps them from working loose later.
BINGO! Adjusting cones is one thing. Getting them to stay adjusted is something else.
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Old 11-01-05, 08:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyccommute
The other thing to do is to tighten the cones against the lock nut. This keeps them from working loose later.
Is that the part where I was holding my cone wrench in one hand and the ordinary adjustable wrench in the other?
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Old 11-01-05, 08:23 PM   #9
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Yes.

[edit] That's the part where you need to put down your beer.
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Old 11-01-05, 08:52 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Expatriate
Yes.

[edit] That's the part where you need to put down your beer.

not true. if you have a bottle, you can hold it in your mouth, and occasionally tip your head back for a swig.

When empty, swing head to side and let bottle fly. yell for another.


Next time, insist to your friend that he clamp the freaking bookshelf, even if it's only 20 minutes, and even if you can watch TV and drink his beer.
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Old 11-02-05, 09:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCjolsen
Is that the part where I was holding my cone wrench in one hand and the ordinary adjustable wrench in the other?
Yes (although you should use a real wrench and not a metric adapter ). Get the adjustment to where you want it and maybe just a little tight (a little, a squidge, a smidgen. Not so tight the wheel won't turn.). Then, holding the wrench on the lock nut and the cone wrench on the cone (on one side of the hub), back the cone out against the lock nut. This will lock them in place (don't go to far) and keep them from working loose. Do it to both sides and in the future only take the cones off one side so that you don't have to mess with both sides. I usually do the non-drive side because resetting the cones on the drive side of the rear is a pain.

When you are done, check to see if you have the proper amount of free rotation and a little play in the bearings. If you do, go ride. If not, do it again until you are either satisfied or completely frustrated
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Old 11-02-05, 10:20 AM   #12
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I think, but don't quote me, that you have to be especially careful to lock the cone and nut on the left side, since the ball action while riding will tend to cause that cone to screw inwards, away from the locknut. On the right, the balls will tend to tighten the cone outwards against the locknut. The splined (not sure if that is the correct term) washer between the cone and locknut prevents the torque on the cone being transferred to the locknut, so they won't both unscrew.
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