FSA ISIS Re-installation? Steel crank bolt?
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FSA ISIS Re-installation? Steel crank bolt?
So I'm transferring parts from one frame to another, and one of those pieces is an FSA SL-K crank with an ISIS interface. I've got hex wrenches, a park tool crank puller, and a torque wrench and it looks like it's easy enough to remove the crank arms (self-extracting bolt or no - I'm not sure what's in there at the moment).
But putting the crank arms back on seems to be an issue. Web searches and fsa's website say that you should use a steel crank bolt to press the arms down on the splines, not the aluminum self-extracting bolt. Which begs the question - is there a self-extracing bolt in there now (I'm not willing to find out unless I can get it back on) - and if so - where do I get a steel crank bolt?
But putting the crank arms back on seems to be an issue. Web searches and fsa's website say that you should use a steel crank bolt to press the arms down on the splines, not the aluminum self-extracting bolt. Which begs the question - is there a self-extracing bolt in there now (I'm not willing to find out unless I can get it back on) - and if so - where do I get a steel crank bolt?
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I think all the self extracting bolts are steel. If you have alloy bolts, you'll need to get a crank extractor as well as steel bolts to replace the crank. You can get them at biketoolsetc.com.
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I thought that the self extracting bolts were aluminum, actually, but I could be mistaken. My FSA BB shipped with alloy bolts, the cranks came with a steel set. Your LBS will have a steel crank bolt or two, maybe just sitting around and still in good shape. The problem with alloy bolts is that the threads aren't as sturdy as steel and torquing the bolt down to make sure that the crank is on all the way can strip said threads. As for being able to tell if it's self extracting or not, look at the black that surrounds the crank bolt. If it has a couple of holes on it that are suitable for a spanner, it's probably threaded into the crankarm and assuming that the right washer is in the right place, will be self extracting. If it's just a rubber filler between the bolt and crankarm, you'll need the crank puller.