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Old 11-01-05, 10:23 PM   #1
Sincitycycler
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I've had it with my Veloce rear Deraileur. Advice on upgrade

Yeah, I thought the kid fixed it, but it reverted to an autoshifting mess.

If I go to a Chorus or Record, are those rear deraileurs are still compatible with the Campy Veloce shifters, yes?
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Old 11-01-05, 10:29 PM   #2
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Yes but they won't work any better than the Veloce one if they aren't adjusted any better.
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Old 11-02-05, 12:07 AM   #3
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I've had bulletproof performance from my carbon record rear (a medium cage, by the way). If you buy used on e-Bay, the records are very affordable.
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Old 11-02-05, 02:19 AM   #4
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I've had bulletproof performance from my carbon record rear (a medium cage, by the way). If you buy used on e-Bay, the records are very affordable.
Would a medium cage cover 12-27?
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Old 11-02-05, 03:43 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sincitycycler
Yeah, I thought the kid fixed it, but it reverted to an autoshifting mess.

If I go to a Chorus or Record, are those rear deraileurs are still compatible with the Campy Veloce shifters, yes?
I have Mirage, Veloce and Chorus on my bikes and they all shift great. The only bad thing on the Mirage is it looks a little cheap. Can you be a little more specific on what is happening. It sounds more like an adjustment problem. Maybe we can help you save some money.

Tim
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Old 11-02-05, 01:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sincitycycler
Would a medium cage cover 12-27?
To answer your question, I quote Leonard Zinn:

"To figure out many derailleur capacity problems, you need to know how to compute "Chain Wrap Capacity".

Chain Wrap = (large chainring - small chainring) + (large rear cog - small rear cog)

So, for you that would be: 53 - 39 + 29 - 13 = 30
Or: 53 - 39 + 26 - 13 = 27

Campy Record and Chorus 10-speed double rear derailleurs are rated to a maximum of 26 teeth on the largest cog, and a total chain wrap of 27 teeth. Chorus and Record medium-cage derailleurs and all Centaur and Daytona 10-speed rear derailleurs are rated to a max cog size of 29 teeth and total chain wrap of 30 teeth."


Hope this helped!
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Old 11-02-05, 01:46 PM   #7
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Switch to Shimano.

Then get the bucket.
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Old 11-02-05, 02:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sincitycycler
Yeah, I thought the kid fixed it, but it reverted to an autoshifting mess.

Make sure the problem is not with your shifter, the cable/housing, the chain, or the adjustment of the derailleur before you buy a new one, or you'll be wasting your money. Also the pulley wheels might be worn out. And make sure the cable is anchored to the derailleur in the right place.

I've got a Veloce rear derailleur, and it works great.
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Old 11-02-05, 02:48 PM   #9
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Yeah, I'm not convinced that this is a derailleur problem. But, I'm also not one to talk someone out of upgrading stuff.
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Old 11-02-05, 03:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sincitycycler
Yeah, I thought the kid fixed it, but it reverted to an autoshifting mess.

If I go to a Chorus or Record, are those rear deraileurs are still compatible with the Campy Veloce shifters, yes?
Yes...but--

Autoshifting is NEVER caused by any fault in the derailer, so replacing your derailer will accomplish nothing.

A common cause of autoshifting with Campagnolo Ergos is wear to the "g springs" in the brifters. These are routinely replaced in the course of a normal overhaul. I'm 95% sure that this is the cause of your problem.

As to the other 5%, see: http://sheldonbrown.com/autoshifting

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Old 11-02-05, 03:42 PM   #11
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Any level of components will shift fine without autoshifting if it is adjusted correctly. Even no name Wal-Mart components shift OK. This is all assuming that something is not actually broken or worn out.

The only reason that upgrading will fix it is that you may replace a faulty (money well spent) or misadjusted (waste of money) component.

Is everything in good working order? Including the cable and housing being clean and lubricated, with no kinks, etc. Shifter - Is that working OK? Dropout straight and not cracked? If the dropout is replacable, make sure it is tight. God forbid, but make sure you don't have a crack in the chain stay. This can let things move around and make the bike shift.

Here is a rough check to see if it is adjusted correctly. Put the bike in whatever gear you are having the most problem with. Get behind the bike and look at how the top pulley and the cog line up. They should be pretty much perfectly in line. If not, you are simply out of adjustment.

If you are mechanically inclined........

I reccommend that you go to the parktool websight and look at the instructions for adjusting a rear derailleur. Read them completely. Then, I would start from scratch by releasing the cable, and setting the barrel adjuster to it's middle position. Now you should be at "neutral". Set your high and low limits first. Then set the cable according to the instructions.

It is not hard at all. Just make small measured adjustments. Such as one turn on the barrel adjuster. If it gets worse, put it back were it was and try the other direction. Only adjust one thing at a time.
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Old 11-02-05, 05:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmason
Switch to Shimano.

Then get the bucket.
Is this a Shimano Mfr. Rep? Or a dealer?
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Old 11-02-05, 05:13 PM   #13
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See :
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/autoshift.html
(Sheldon mislinked to his site)

I had autoshift on climb on a mtb a few years back, that turned out to be a case of junk in the drivetrain and naught else. I've also had odd behavior from a bent derailer - check the alignment of yours.
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Old 11-03-05, 01:47 AM   #14
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Is this a Shimano Mfr. Rep? Or a dealer?
Nope, just a Campa lover who does not want this git associated with Campa.
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Old 11-03-05, 09:52 AM   #15
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OK, boys, settle this playground bull**** through PMs.
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