Hi, I recently replaced my old 6-speed wheel (axle with screws on the end) and built up a new 9-speed wheel with a QR (spread the frame to fit). When I went to put the new wheel on the horizontal dropouts, the cassette was rubbing on the little metal piece (don't know what it is called) that sits in the dropouts. That little metal thingy seems to be there to center the wheel in the dropouts and maybe protect the dropouts (thats my guess) but isn't compatible with my QR for some reason. My question, is this. Do I need that metal thing and where should I put the wheel in the dropouts? Is it better to be centered or pushed all the way back in the dropouts? If I try to center the wheel in the dropouts there is a chance I won't have both sizes even- hence the advantage of having that metal thing there. Since I don't know what that thing is called, I don't know how to buy a new one that works better. thanks
You can ditch the metal axel locator thingys,but I don't seem to recall having a problem with them.Or maybe try moving them as far back as they will go. Or,put the axel at the back of the dropouts,and if the wheel is centered and the chain is long enough, you got it made. If the wheel isn't centered, then you will have to do some adjusting each time you remove/replace.
I don't know what it is either. Horizontal dropouts, at least on road bikes, often have a bolt threaded from the back that it used to help adjust the position of the axle in the dropouts. You can remove it by unscrewing it. I see no way that it could get in the way of a cassette. It would appear you have a device with a similar purpose but a different design. Removing it would be the answer, I think.
Where in the dropout the axle is placed affects the handling of the bike. There is no right or wrong place to put it. However, if you aren't going to have the "thingy" then it might be easiest to put the axle at the rear of the dropouts as long as that centers the wheel between the seat stays.
The reason the metal thingy doesn't work with the QR is that it is too short. The "bolt" that the screw goes into sticks out past the metal plate (that the QR rests against) and hits the cassette. It worked on my old axle because there was more clearance between the cassete and the frame due to the spacers. It seems there is a lot less spaced with the 9-speed cassette.
'''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
My 9-speed cassette does run noticably closer to the drive-side dropout than the 8-speed cassettes on my other bikes. These are all Shimano hubs and cassettes, btw.
Either remove the "metal thingy" and center the wheel by eye each time you install it or add a spacer to the drive side and remove a similar spacer from the non-drive side of the axle to create more clearance. You will have to redish the wheel if you play with the spacers.
trek 520 & 736, DeRosa Professional, Fuji Professional, Raleigh International 3-speed, Saronni (any info people?), Humber 3-speed, Raleigh Sports, Carlton Grand Prix coming soon!
Originally Posted by fmw
Horizontal dropouts, at least on road bikes, often have a bolt threaded from the back that it used to help adjust the position of the axle in the dropouts. You can remove it by unscrewing it. I see no way that it could get in the way of a cassette. It would appear you have a device with a similar purpose but a different design. Removing it would be the answer, I think.
i'm going to guess he means a bolt-in huret- or simplex-style dropout adjuster, that fit inside the dropout. either that or a derailleur with a claw.
However you resolve the axle positioning issue, make sure you get that quick-release skewer mucho tight! If you don't, it's quite possible for the chain to pull the drive side of the axle forward in the dropout slot when you really get on it, especially in a lower gear. Ask me how I know this! Talk about squirrelly handling!