alright, so I'm not sure if my just describing this is going to even give you guys a chance to help, but I have to try.

So I am building this wheel (shimano E-type coaster brake and sun AT18), I used a spoke length calculator program down at the shop and got my correct length to be 295 rounded up(from 294.9). So I have off set eyelets, so it's a lot easier to see which spoke goes where. 36 hole,3-cross fyi.
(assuming looking through the axle at the side of the wheel)

I start with the first spoke through the bottom flange and go to the first eyelet to the right of the valve stem hole. Then I count four holes to the right on the rim and put the next spoke, which, on the hub, is in the hole two down(same direction relative to the spoke placement in the rim). So on the hub I have a spoke ever other hole and on the rim every fourth hole.

Then I go to the top flange and select the next hole to the right of the first spoke hole just used in the bottom flange(because the two sides are offset a bit). I then take that spoke and go to the hole just to the right of the first spoke. So I have two spokes in the rim right next to each other. Then I laced it up just like previously stated for the bottom flange, only this time for the top. every other hole, and every fourth hole. So I now have groups of two spokes in the rim with two holes in between.

I then twist the hub to the right(towards the direction that has the spokes closest to the valve hole).
Then I proceed to drop spokes into the bottom flange. This time I go the opposite direction, crossing once at the hub, then again just a few mm away from the hub then under the final spoke, a few inches from the hub flange and put it into the first hole open closest to the last spoke crossed. I do that for the whole side.
So now I have the entire bottom flange "done" ever hole is filled.


::The Problem::
BUT WAIT, somethings up. The two spokes(the initial spokes from each side) are now sticking like half an inch awa from the hub everywhere. The set of spokes that I put in(the ones that did the crossing) fit fine, but if you look at the wheel, Two spokes stick out of ever set of three(because I never finished with the other flange).

I don't know what to do. I was following some old book to the T. It even said that there were two types of rims, more common ones which have the high eyelet as the second eyelet away from the valve hole and less common which have the high eyelet right next, on the right side, to the valve hole. Now I know it's a "more common" rim because I have just laced a "less common" and I can see the difference. I triple checked my spoke length. I relaced twice. I just don't know. So now I feel a bit better, as this has ruined my friday. thanks for whatever help you can give, and I again apologize for the lack of images.

I would go to DT swiss.com and put in your hub and rim measurements again and see what spoke length you get.http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm tells you how to measure your hub dimensions.
I would check the spokes you have and make sure you were given the right lengths.
I would then http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html check here when you are doing your lacing. I have not kept your text so that I have not checked whether it is 3 cross or something else you are doing.

I understand your frustration but I believe your problem lies in spoke length, incorrect lacing. Leave it for now and when you wake up tomorrow morning revisit.

Oh and please post back the answer when you find it out

i tired to type this out for you but lost interest after a bit... sorry

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visit sheldonbrown.com for a more complete guide...

start:
bung(insert) the spokes(inbound) with the spokehead sitting on the outside of the flange. the drive side of the hub should be on your lap facing up.

then look at your rim valve drilling with the rim laying horizontal. put your key spoke in the drilling which is HIGHEST on either side of the valve drilling. go around the rim every 4 holes.

next flip your hub/wheel. look down through the spoke hole on the hub flange and notice how the drillings are offset a bit? bung inbound spokes opposite of the valve hole side. <--confusing?

theres more so just visit sheldons site...

Twist the hub to the right some more. This will pull down the two spokes you initially put in and stick out the one spoke you just crossed. When they're all even, push down on the hub, pull up on the rim. Then install the final 4th set of spokes.

If you're sure the measurements are right, do the whole wheel. Sometimes the first and second set seem to protrude until you get the full third set in and are starting the fourth. Until the dish is aligning right, the spokes can seem wrong. Once you've done many wheels you'll be able to know early that something is wrong. Until then, do the whole wheel (good exercise anyway) and see if you still have protrusion. If you do, the spoke length calculations were wrong (or your cross patterns were wrong).

If you have pairs sticking out you may have twisted the hub the wrong direction. (I did not read the whole thing , no coffee yet this AM.

Yeah, so a mechanic friend of mine also suggested twisting the other direction. I tried it to no avail. So then I flipped through some wheel building book hoping something would happen, I might notice something, have an epiphony, anything. So my boss suggests I just try completeing the build and tightening everything up and see how it goes. So I tried and this time there were no problems anywhere along the way. I have no idea what changed. I twisted the wheel back to the original way, crossed the spokes the exact same, I just don't know. It's very anti-climactical. And I didn't learn anything.
stupid wheel.

You did learn that just becuase the wheel looks goofed up with no tension it is not really goofed up.
It is a good ideaa to look for a problem if the wheel looks suspect pretension. The lacing is the easy part, better to catch a problem quick before you tension it up.

Also, Shimano E-type rear hubs do NOT need to be dished.