RGW

Hi - I'm a frequent reader with a first time post. I recently bought a NOS Gunnar Roadie frame which I plan to build up with the current components on my C'dale. I have an Ultegra group I will put take off the C'dale and put on the Gunnar. I still need to purchase a new fork, which is where one of my questions is concerned. I'm tring to do this as inexpensively as possible by using my existing parts. I currently have a steel 1" threaded C'dale fork with Chris King headset and Salsa stem. I would like to reuse the headset and stem with a new carbon fork to be purchased on ebay. Not finding too many 1" threaded carbon forks though that are reasonably priced that will fit a 58cm bike. Alternatively, I may try and get a threadless fork, HS (preferable CK) and stem on ebay, and try to offset cost with sale of my current frame/fork/HS/stem.
Is it difficult to swap out a headset (option 1). What other issues might I encounter with the buildup. I've never done it before, yet am somewhat mechanically inclined, am beginning to collect some tools and would like to learn the mechanics of my bike. I don't want to have to purchase some expensive tools that I will only use once or twice though. Any advice is greatly appreciated!!

Thanks
Bob

fmw

I have no personal experience at removing and installing headsets without the proper tools but I know it can be and is done regularly. Removing the bearing cups can be done with something like a dowel rod and mallet and installing them can be done with a block of wood and a mallet. Instructions for doing it with the proper tools should be available on the Park Tool web site. Doing it without the tools is pretty intuitive once you see how it's done with the tools. I've seen some home made headset presses that the builders say work just fine. They are made with threaded rods, nuts and washers. You could put one together for a few bucks at the hardware store.

I'm not surprised that carbon forks with threaded steerers are hard to find. I think I would settle for a threadless one and simply bite the bullet on a new headset and stem. You may be able to recover some of the cost by selling your King headset. The King headsets are very nice but you might be happy with one from Cane Creek, FSA or a number of other makers. I have a $30 Cane Creek headset on one of my bikes and it performs perfectly. Stems can be pretty inexpensive if you stay away from very light ones or carbon fiber models. Of course, used stems are readily available on Ebay at very low prices. I think going with a threaded steerer will not only make parts shopping easier and cheaper, but it will update your bike to more modern technology as well. Good luck with the project. Sounds terrific.

cs1

If you are capable of stripping the old frame down to everything but the headset then do so. Take the old frame and new to your LBS and ask them how much to swap headsets. It can't be that much and they have the proper tools to do it correctly. If the the steerer tube is the same size or larger on your Cannondale then it can be re used. If it is too much shorter it may need to be replaced. Good luck it isn't that hard. Let us know how it comes out.

Tim

HillRider

Kestrel makes a carbon fork with a 1" Cr-Mo steel threaded steerer called the EMS Pro that lists for about $150 and would allow you to use your CK headset. I've seen these on sale occasionally for about $100 which is what I paid for mine.

Otherwise, go threadless and use another headset as recommended. I have both Cane Creek and FSA cartridge bearing 1" threadless headsets on two bikes and they work extremely well. Not the cache of a CK but certainly cheaper and very functional.

Nashbar has a housebrand 1" threadless Al stem for about $15 with a two bolt face plate that is as light as many of the boutique stems. Also works just fine based on personal experience.

RGW

Thanks for your input! -perhaps the threadless option is the preferable one.

sch

Nashbar also has an Easton EC30 threadless carbon/ chromoly steerer in both 1" and 1 1/8" for $100 in their online store. I got an Easton EC30 threaded fork for $120 from Nashbar 9-10mo ago.
Steve

FarHorizon

IMHO, the threadless option is NOT the preferable one. Why? With threadless, once you cut the steering tube, you have virtually NO further adjustment available for handlebar height. You'd better cut it right the first time!

With a threaded fork and stem, the stem can be raised or lowered very conveniently to get the fit you want. Additionally, the fork bearings do not have to be readjusted every time you make an adjustment. If you get back problems and REALLY want to raise the stem, replacement stems for threaded headsets are readily and cheaply available.

Besides, the Chris King headset on your current bike is premium and well worth keeping (especially if you're on a budget).

TallRider

Alternately, you could put a nice steel fork on - its narrow-tubed looks would compliment the Gunnar. And it should be pretty easy to get good ones for a 1" threaded steerer.
I've got a beautiful Reynolds 753 lugged steel fork on my aluminum road bike. Out of convenience at the time (10 years ago) - we had it sitting around the shop with the correct steerer tube length for my bike - but I'm glad to have it now.

caotropheus

I would go steel threaded fork for the reasons already pointed by other people. Usually simple solutions cost less, last longer and surprisingly achieve the same final results!

RGW

I've been looking online for a threaded steel fork to not avail - would love to put a straight bladed Waterford fork on - but a little pricey.
I may go the threaded carbon option, hate to give up the King headset - looking at a Profile design BRC. Some reviews mention they have a little too much flex - I'm not a racer, so don't know if I would notice (??)
Thanks for all your input - really appreciate it