str8flexed

I want to get a BMX freewheel for my single speed, replacing the 5-speed cassette, but then I'd have to redish the rear wheel.

I have 2 questions:

1)The spokes on one side of the hub are different lengths than the other side right? So in addition to just adjusting the tension to redish, I may have to get new spokes too??

2)Assuming I do not need new spokes, can rredishing the old wheel could cause major problems b/c its old, and the spokes may not be used to the new tension? I'm talking 80's old. Or what kind of problems might the LBS be hinting at?

Thanks!

powers2b

1)The spokes on one side of the hub are different lengths than the other side right? So in addition to just adjusting the tension to redish, I may have to get new spokes too??

Not usually


2)Assuming I do not need new spokes, can rredishing the old wheel could cause major problems b/c its old, and the spokes may not be used to the new tension? I'm talking 80's old. Or what kind of problems might the LBS be hinting at?

If the nipples are corroded to the spokes you risk breaking the spoke as you turn the nipple.

Put a drop of oil on each nipple and turn gently.
You should be fine.

Enjoy

Bikebros

why would you have to redish? are you going to pull the axle out and move spacers around? leave the dishing alone and see if you can adjust chain line at the cranks, better yet, just leave your multi speed freewheel on there, and use the middle sprocket, or which ever gives good chainline and a good gear.
The big benefit of a true single speed FW rear end is the nice wide flange spacing which gives good lateral strength to the wheel.

seely

If you do redish you will probably end up something like the rear wheel on my fixie... spokes coming out of the nipples on one side and bottomed out on the other. I had to retrue the wheel 2-3x after dishing and riding, but now it seems to be holding great, but then again its 36h 3x.

Retro Grouch 

Everything on a bicycle works together. You can almost never change just one part without having to replace or modify something else.

Right now your hub has spacers on it's axle so that the distance between the locknuts exactly matches your bike frame dropouts. If all that you do is to replace yoru freewheel (don't call it a cassette because that's a different thing) you will encounter a couple of problems. First of all it's going to look goofy. Secondly, without a derailleur to help guide the chain, the chain is probably going to pop off all the time. You are going to have to futz with the axle spacers to get your single speed freewheel to exactly line up with your front chainring.

After you get the chainline right you are apt to notice that your tire doesn't track in the center of your frame. As you mentioned, you'll probably have to redish your wheel by tightening the left side spokes and loosening the ones on the drive side. Most rear wheels have drive side spokes that are about 1mm shorter than the left side. Depending on how much you have to redish your wheel you will lose a few threads engaging the drive side and you may find the spokes sticking through the nipples on the left side.

msneeri2@hotmai

i agree with the nipple theory,if they can be turned, chances are you are fine .before i had the confidence to do it myself,i had my lbs redish an old shimano 600 6-speed rear wheel about 2 years ago. i think they charged me $10. i had one spoke go out on me about a week after they did it (on the "short" spoke length side of the wheel)...i replaced it, and rode the wheel hard for 6 mos before switching to fixed full time. the wheel is now on a lady friend's bike and is still totally fine. also, if you are not riding fixed, don't go bonkers over chainline...get a 3/32 bmx freewheel,run a road chain,and if you are anywhere near 5mm difference you'll be fine. good luck!

supcom

Spokes don't get "used to" any particular tension. If the wheel can be trued, it can be redished. In your case, you'll be moving the drive side flange outward and pulling the rim back to the left. This will result in a more even tension between left and right side spokes which will make the wheel stronger than it is now and probably extend the life of the drive side spokes.

Rev.Chuck

I have shifted many a wheel for the guy doing a low budget fixed conversion. Yet to have an issue. The only thing i could see as a real issue is if the present spokes are real long and bottom in the nipple before you get dish

peripatetic

I did exactly what you want to do with an old 6-speed freewheeled rear wheel last year. I followed Sheldon Brown's website on re-dishing and re-spacing for a ss, and everything worked fine. Oil on the nipple's a good tip--just make sure to wipe it clean before putting on an innertube: according to Sheldon Brown, oil will degrade the rubber from the inside, eventually leading to a "Pop."

I recently went into my LBS and asked the guy to help me out with the spacing. His solution made sense, also: rather than re-dishing, he merely re-spaced so that the hub had equal spacers on both sides, then just tightened the dropouts down (his spacers didn't make up the total spacing.) This was kind of a fudge, but as far as the wheel being centered between the frame's chainstays, it worked.

--okay. But when I get the chance, I'm going to do it right and re-dish then re-space. Why? Because the wheel ismuch stronger with equal tension on both sides, and the even balance (and thus handling) is really one of the biggest reasons to do it in the first place. In answer to one of the above posters, the other big reason to do this is to lighten the bike up. Leaving extra metal on there in the form of your cassette and unused chainrings kind of defeats the purpose.

Finally, as long as you get your chainline right (just measure carefully), you shouldn't ever have a chain fall off. I never have on mine.

It's worth the work, btw. I use the ss for my guests' bike, and they all love it. Hassle-free and fun to ride.

supcom

If you replace a multispeed freewheel with a singlespeed one, then simply center the hub with spacers, your rim will be offcenter and more than likely you will not have an optimum chainline. The correct solution to this situation is to use spacers first to align the chainline, then dish the wheel to center the rim.

peripatetic

I know. Did you read the rest of my post? The chainline's good enough the way he did it, but it's not perfect. I know.

One point no one realizes about this whole thing is that when you convert to a BMX freewheel, you use a wider chain. This actually allows for a little side-to-side play on a standard road chainring. This also isn't optimal, but the bit of play helps to compensate for the imperfect chainline. This is why it works, but also why the chain jiggles an oh-so-tiny bit on the chainring. Not optimal, but totally fine for a getting around town ss conversion that's a heck of a lot more fun to ride, which is really the ultimate point: fun fun fun!

caotropheus

Str8

The guys on the shop said it was risky? For their pockets I believe. A new wheel is more money, so more profit. I do believe that you can use the BMX hub the rim you have, buy new spokes and lace the wheel by your self.