SDRider

So, I have all the components gathered for my new bike and found a suitable frame which is out being painted and I'm thinking of assembling the bike myself. I'm pretty handy and I know it's not exactly rocket science but I'm concerned with two areas...well, three actually. Those being the headset and the bottom bracket. I don't have the tools to install a headset or bottom bracket and I've gotten quotes locally of anywhere from $75 to $150 to assemble a complete bike from parts.

My level of experience with bikes has been limited to mounting tires, replacing brake calipers, installing new brake pads, removal and installation of cassette and wrapping handlebars.

I am very handy though. I built a patio cover on the back of my house. I've done brake jobs on my cars, replaced mufflers, replaced headers, water pumps, tune ups, shocks and struts, I've even replaced a bumper. I have torque wrenches and an awesome set of tools. I build all my own computers from components so trouble shooting is something I've developed a knack for as well.

What do you think? Can I handle this or should I leave it to professionals?

Oh, the third thing I was worried about was derailleur adjustment. I know I can put them on the frame and route the cables properly but adjusting them so that they work well is pretty much a mystery to me. I am willing to read up on this though and learn.

chuckfox

You can handle it. Have a bike shop install the headset and bottom bracket and do the rest yourself. You will really enjoy it and the pride in building it yourself is worth it!

schang

Sound like you won't have too much trouble. If you don't want to get the tools for the headset and bb, then you can just have your LBS put those in, and do the rest yourself. Derailleur adjustment isn't so bad. https://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=53 should tell you everything you need to know.

UCSDbikeAnarchy

BBs and headsets aren't hard to intsall, you jsut need the tools, but if you don't plan on ever building more bikes, might be worth it to let the LBS do it. I assembleid my first bike with not problem at all thanks to the park-tool website (and some park tools) If you can do a brake job on a car, you can build up a bike no problem.

The only problem had, was figuring out the length to cut the brake/shifter tubing. Other than that you can jsut mess with it untill it works, or take it in for a final tune up.

ridesoldtrek

Maybe except for a few tools, it sounds like you have all the skill, and maybe more, than the person who might get the job at the LBS. This isn't a slap at all the great mechanics out there, just the truth of what can happen and the luck of the draw. Are these new, modern components or "vintage" 70's or 80's? Installing a headset requires a press of some sort, and the ability to accurately measure the installation to make sure it is square. Arbor presses aren't all that hard to come by, not very expensive, and handy for a variety of things that a handy guy like you will do. The fork crown may be more difficult. Depending on the length of the head tube, a decent vernier or digital calipers of the right size is also necessary, and not a specialized tool. I did this a long time ago when I had access to a basic machine shop, and it came out great - still in great shape over 20 years later.

I can't really speak to the modern equipment though. The old bottom brackets were very easy to install, and the tools not very expensive, and useful for future rebuilds.

You won't learn to do it by having someone else do it for you.

Brian

The OP has sent his frame out for paint - that says something very important right there. If your parts and time are worth anything to you, have a shop do the headset and BB. They'll need to face both surfaces so that they are square and clean. This is especially important on a frame that's been painted. They'll shave a fraction of a mil off the surfaces, but you'll be avoiding problems later. Even with a headset press - home made or Park tools, the surfaces need to be square first. I'm certain there was a thread about this recently.

Derailleurs are only confusing to those who don't understand their simplicity. Make sure the shifter is set for the smallest gear or cog, then take all slack out of the cable. You've got 2 screws on each - they're Hi/Lo stops at each end of the derailleur travel. If you can't get on the big ring or cog, or it over-shifts, you adjust the screw for that end of the travel. If you can't get into the smallest ring or cog, or it over-shiftst that end, you adjust the other screw. That's about it.

FarHorizon

Hi Expat!

I've always heard this advice and NEVER heeded it. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I've never had a problem with headsets or bottom brackets even on freshly-painted frames. As a matter of fact, the ONLY time I've EVER had facing done is on completely new frames built from tubing sets.

Once the faces are surfaced once (obviously done when the frame is new), why would the surfaces EVER become non-parallel? It isn't like there's any friction on the frame - the headset races absorb all friction there and the bottom bracket's bearings absorb all friction from the cranks. The bottom cage (being cast) is highly unlikely to deform, and the head tube has enough structural integrity to avoid asymmetrical buckling (the only deformation that could possibly cause the top and bottom surface to become non-parallel to each other).

In short, although your advice is oft-repeated, I don't really see any reason to follow it. This isn't a personal attack - I respect your expertise. It is just an observation based on my experience.

Brian

Mr. Horizon, you question is a very fair one. My answers are based entirely on very simple logic.

How do you know that it was done when your frame was new? On a used frame, how do you know that some monkey hasn't pounded the headset cups in with a hammer? And how do you propose you remove the new paint while still keeping things perfectly square? On a mountain bike, some companies will not warranty you frame if you use a fork over a specific amount of travel, or a dual crown. And there's a reason companies make the 1.5" headtube now. So there's a few reasons why I think it's just cheap insurance to have it done.

But wait, there's more! Have you ever ridden (or read about) the bike with the mysterious creak? Always from either the BB or headset area. And go look at the Chris King site, the bit where they explain headset installation. Their OC tendencies make me look downright slack.

As long as you're spending several hundred, to a couple thousand dollars on a bike, it's worth the few extra bucks to have this done, if only for the peace of mind.

CdCf

Bottom bracket is no more difficult to install than any other part. I don't see why people make such a fuss about that and headsets being difficult.

Installing the headset takes either a special, and expensive, tool, or you can build a tool yourself for almost no money at all.
The attached picture shows what I used. Worked perfectly, and cost me the equivalent of US$15.

jazzy_cyclist

I'm doing this now (well, bought a frame and in the process of getting componentry). I may be a little different in that I'm wanting to learn this stuff as opposed to saving money, so I don't mind spending extra to do that. My approach is to work with my LBS; I'll pay significantly more for the components, but they'll also help me out, answer questions, etc. In fact, I'm taking the Park Tools course from them now - last week, I stripped my bike down to the bare frame, cleaned, etc. - next week it will be reassembled (hopefully with no parts left over!). The cost of the course is what I would have paid them for this service, so the knowledge is free. I'm learning a ton, gaining confidence in my abilities, and having lots of fun in the process.

If there are procedures that you are squeamish about, you might ask the LBS to do it, but request that you watch/participate. I haven't pressed a headset in, but removing/replacing the bottom bracket on my current bike was actually pretty simple. I'm still unclear on the facing/chasing issue (whether it really needs it or not) other than some of the specific circumstances mentioned.

If you're the least bit adventurous, I'd recommend that you at least give it a try.

SoonerBent

SDRider, since you are having the frame painted I would suggest that you carefully sand the paint off of the faces of the BB shell and head tube. If not it has a tendancy to chip off when the BB and headset are installed.

CdCf has the right idea for the headset tool. I've done it that way many times. Not difficult. Just make sure that the cups are going in straight. On the BB make sure that the threads are clean.

I also agree with FarHorizon. I've built up almost every bike I've ever had from a frameset and never had a BB shell or headtube faced. And I've never had a problem arise from not doing so.

SS

TRaffic Jammer

I wouldn't trust my lbs to do a full build anymore than I would trust my mechanic to build me a car.
My bike....my build..... if I need an LBS's tools I rent em. A 20$ and I can go back and work on it myself TYVM...not when I've been riding longer than the mechanic there has been alive.

ridesoldtrek

I agree mostly with the posts concerning the facing only haveing to be done once. How can you tell if someone has screwed it up since the initial job? You should be able to see some damage just by lookng at it - but if you are serious about being a general (bikes and otherwise) mechanic and builder of all things you can, you should invest the minimal dollars needed to buy tools such as vernier calipers, and other simple measuring tools that will allow you to measure these things to a very high degree of accuracy. It is not hard to do, and from what you say about your proficiency in such things, well within your capabilities and means.

Probably the most difficult part of the job to do correctly is to install the bottom race on head tube, as this is tougher to measure the surface for being square to the head tube, and requires a different tool than the threaded rod with plates.

phoebeisis

It is possible to "press" the cups in with a 2x4" and a hammer.Grease the inside of the headtube-put the cups in the freezer for 15 minutes-take them out-hand press them a little way in-put the 4' of the 2x4 on top--support the other side of the headtube with soft wood-and gently hammer away.If it goes in a little cockeyed,bias your blow to the other side-it will straighten out.Before you start, get some idea on just how "tight" a fit it will be.If you can't even get the edges to engage,you might want to sand (600 grit-clean it up before install)a bit of the headset(not the headtube of course) so it will engage a bit(it won't take much).Now,I would never use such a crude procedure,not with my fully equipped 3000' workshop,but I have been present many times when it was done.
You can install the bottom race-that fits on the fork-by 1st sanding the inside of the race-cleaning it a bit-grease the fork-use a big crescent wrench-fit it over the top of the race so it just clears the steering tube-it will be resting in 2 places on the bottom race.You need 4 hands to do this-you hold the wrench and the fork-have the dropouts on something soft-grass-wood-whatever-have your buddy wack the wrench-close to the steering tube-with the 2" part of a 3' long 2x4(not too hard).The race will start in-eyeball it and move the crescent wrench around as needed till it is seated.Now-you should have the wrench tight enough so that you aren't pounding on the race(where the balls or sealed captive bearing ride)-you are pounding on the ridge of metal right next to the steering tube.If you scratch up the steering tube a bit-so what-no one can see it.The trick is to have the crescent wrench tight enough,but not too tight.Tell you buddy he doesn't have to hit very hard.
Once again-I don't actually use such crude methods-but I have been there when they were used-many times.Luck,Charlie