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Old 01-27-06, 10:20 PM   #1
TJHOO
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What am I doing wrong?

New Campagnolo Vento wheels/hubs

New Campy Veloce cassette
http://www.campagnolo.com/groupsets....&cid=5&pid=180

New Park BBT-5 Cassette lockring tool http://www.parktool.com/products/det...4&item=BBT%2D5

Torque wrench w/ 1" socket; 0-140 Newton Meters (N-m). The socket has 12 indentions internally, while the BBT-5 has 6 sides

Description per Park :ITEM # BBT-5
Freewheel Remover / Bottom Bracket Tool
Fits Campagnolo® cassette lockrings and Campagnolo® Record™, Chorus™, and Athena™ bottom brackets. BBT-5 uses a 1" hex shape, and will fit the FRW-1.

Acc to Branford Bike:
"Use a Park BBT-5 Cassette lockring tool to install or remove any Campagnolo cassette lockring. The BBT-5 tool also fits Campagnolo Record and Chorus bottom bracket cups."
http://www.branfordbike.com/cassette/cog20.html

Directions from Campy are to tighten to 50 N-m.

Directions from Park:
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48

Cassette installed on hub by hand easily.
lockring tightened easily w/ fingers finger tight
HOWEVER HERE IS THE PROBLEM: When Torque wrench applied to 20 N-m, it slips; cannot tighten further past 20 N-m.

Any suggestions? The lockring is new; does not appear to be stripped.
Do I need a socket w/ only 6 indentations?
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Old 01-27-06, 10:27 PM   #2
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whaat slips? the lockring or socket?
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Old 01-27-06, 10:31 PM   #3
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If it's anything like my Shimano stuff the lockring tool doesn't have a lot of bite on the lockring. I sometimes need to hold the tool against the lockring while tightening or it pops off.
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Old 01-27-06, 10:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Hamer
whaat slips? the lockring or socket?
I can't tell what is slipping. The lockring is finger tight.
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Old 01-27-06, 10:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F1_Fan
If it's anything like my Shimano stuff the lockring tool doesn't have a lot of bite on the lockring. I sometimes need to hold the tool against the lockring while tightening or it pops off.
Yes, the BBT-5 seems to pop off easily
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Old 01-27-06, 10:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F1_Fan
I sometimes need to hold the tool against the lockring while tightening or it pops off.
Please elaborate.
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Old 01-27-06, 10:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F1_Fan
If it's anything like my Shimano stuff the lockring tool doesn't have a lot of bite on the lockring. I sometimes need to hold the tool against the lockring while tightening or it pops off.
Good point! I almost always use a torque wrench to tighten ing lockrings, always Shimano at 40nm, and you have to use a socket. When you start to get a lot of torque on the cassette lockring tool it pops out of the lockring. Try putting some tissue paper in the socket so that you can put some downward pressure on the lockring tool while turning it. That's a favorite trick of Primo Tiki's.
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Old 01-27-06, 10:43 PM   #8
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Just the other day Primo Tiki said to me " A torque wrench is only useful if acompanied by common sense"
He is wise beyond his years.
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Old 01-27-06, 10:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Hamer
Good point! I almost always use a torque wrench to tighten ing lockrings, always Shimano at 40nm, and you have to use a socket. When you start to get a lot of torque on the cassette lockring tool it pops out of the lockring. Try putting some tissue paper in the socket so that you can put some downward pressure on the lockring tool while turning it. That's a favorite trick of Primo Tiki's.
Tried the tissue paper w/ downward force 90deg from rotational axis. lockring tool keeps popping off at ~25-30 N-m.
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Old 01-27-06, 10:49 PM   #10
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How are you steadying the wheel for counter traction? In your lap?
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Old 01-27-06, 10:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJHOO
Tried the tissue paper w/ downward force 90deg from rotational axis. lockring tool keeps popping off at ~25-30 N-m.
Have you tried just using an adjustable wrench to get it a bit tighter while pushing down on the tool with your hand. It is unlikely that you will have a problem if you don't use a torque wrench. Otherwise just put some blue 242 loctite on it and leave it at 30nm.
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Old 01-27-06, 10:58 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Hamer
Have you tried just using an adjustable wrench to get it a bit tighter while pushing down on the tool with your hand. It is unlikely that you will have a problem if you don't use a torque wrench. Otherwise just put some blue 242 loctite on it and leave it at 30nm.
Have not tried adjustable wrench.

Should I try that 1st, or
tomorrow ask wife to hold wheel for counter traction, or
loctite.
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Old 01-27-06, 11:00 PM   #13
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Have you tried using the skewer to hold the lockring tool for you? Try tighten the nut on the skewer finger on the other side of the tool. I usually rest the wheel between my feet using my feet to stabalize the wheel. Hold the top of the wheel with one hand and push the lever toward the ground.
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Old 01-27-06, 11:06 PM   #14
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If you use a skewer make sure it's a cheap/extra one. If the tool slips a bit and bends the skewer then that's not good.

I stand up, set the wheel on the ground leaning against my legs, hold the wrench and tool onto the freehub with the palm of my hand and push down on the wrench with the other hand. My feet stop the wheel from rolling.

Sometimes I clamp the tool in a bench vise so I can push down on the wheel while turning it... however, I've been working on bikes for 20 years and don't need the torque wrench
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Old 01-27-06, 11:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
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.. however, I've been working on bikes for 20 years and don't need the torque wrench
Bikes have changed a lot since twenty years ago.
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Old 01-27-06, 11:17 PM   #16
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Thanks to everybody. Used wisdom from you all.

--The tissue stuffed in the socket got it to 40N-m
--Skewer to hold the lockring tool in place in addtion to having wheel vertical between legs, pushing it into wall got it to 50 N-m

Time for bed!
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