adjusting chainline with integrated BB...
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adjusting chainline with integrated BB...
Im having trouble with the chain rubbing on the big ring of a compact crank.
How can I adjust the chainline on an FSA mega-exo BB? (it's the same as shimano integrated BB's) If I put the needed spacers on the right side, then there isn't enough spindle remaining on the left to properly torque the crank.
Also, why does my dura-ace freehub require 3mm of spacers to work with a dura-ace 10sp cassette? Is this common? Can I get a shorter freehub? Would it be dangerous to put the spacers on the lock-ring side instead of the hub side? (beacuse the teeth wouldn't engage) What about the washer between the hub and freehub, can I take it out? seems like it does nothing.
My other idea is to remove a small spacer from the left side of the axle and add it to the right, but that might lead to over-dishing the wheel. HELP
How can I adjust the chainline on an FSA mega-exo BB? (it's the same as shimano integrated BB's) If I put the needed spacers on the right side, then there isn't enough spindle remaining on the left to properly torque the crank.
Also, why does my dura-ace freehub require 3mm of spacers to work with a dura-ace 10sp cassette? Is this common? Can I get a shorter freehub? Would it be dangerous to put the spacers on the lock-ring side instead of the hub side? (beacuse the teeth wouldn't engage) What about the washer between the hub and freehub, can I take it out? seems like it does nothing.
My other idea is to remove a small spacer from the left side of the axle and add it to the right, but that might lead to over-dishing the wheel. HELP
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If it has short stays, then you will have to tolerate some rubbing in the small ring+11,12,13 range. If you are in those gears it is time to be on the big ring anyway.
If you have D/A 9 hub then you need the spacers to fit the 10 cassette. Leave the spacers on the hub side. If you remove the spaer between the hub and freehub, I believe you will reduce the hub spacing about 1mm.
The deal is, with a racey frame and short stays, the chain will touch the big ring when in the smallest gears in the back, even with a perfect chainline.
If you have D/A 9 hub then you need the spacers to fit the 10 cassette. Leave the spacers on the hub side. If you remove the spaer between the hub and freehub, I believe you will reduce the hub spacing about 1mm.
The deal is, with a racey frame and short stays, the chain will touch the big ring when in the smallest gears in the back, even with a perfect chainline.
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Rev. Chuck- thats pretty much what I expected. But Im a little lost on the freehub part. Is that a typo or did you say the 9sp freehub is wider than the 10?
Do single speeders usually have the lock ring in contact with a spacer instead of a notched cog?(seems dangerous). maybe I'll grind down an old 11t cog to make a spacer with notches.
Do single speeders usually have the lock ring in contact with a spacer instead of a notched cog?(seems dangerous). maybe I'll grind down an old 11t cog to make a spacer with notches.
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I might be wrong, but as I understand it the 10s cassette requires a 1mm spacer to fit to a nine speed hub, the spacer used to come in the box. I think the 10s D/A freehub is shaped different than all the others. I know the splines are deeper.
I was pretty sure of what I was saying but now TimCupery and Hillrider have me thinking my rep might not have been telling me the straight deal on crossfit for 9 and 10 speed parts.
I was pretty sure of what I was saying but now TimCupery and Hillrider have me thinking my rep might not have been telling me the straight deal on crossfit for 9 and 10 speed parts.
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