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  1. #1
    fmw
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    Hoosier Pedaler fmw's Avatar
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    Brake pad recommendation?

    Apparently modern brake pads and old Mavic Open 4CD anodized rims aren't a good match because my braking is terrible. What kind of pads do I need?

  2. #2
    me have long head tube TallRider's Avatar
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    I've got Mavic MA40 rims on my road bike (well, the front rim; the rear cracked and I replaced it with an Open Pro) and the old hard black-rubber Shimano pads work well on them. Same is true for some hard-anodized Wolber Super Champion rims on the Centurion that I recently bought and overhauled. The Shimano blacks work well, and after some rides in inclement weather, the hard-anodizing will wear off a bit.

    That said, I've never heard anything bad about the Salmon-colored Kool Stop pads.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Nubie's Avatar
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    I think Kool Stop makes brake pads specifically for ceramic rims. I have regular Kool Stops (black) on my hybrid and they're much better than the stock brake pads.

  4. #4
    Senior Member zoridog's Avatar
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    Buy Kool Stop Salmon color and never look back. They are rim friendly and work well in wet weather.
    I miss bicycle commuting.

  5. #5
    fmw
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    Thanks, I'll surf around to find some.

  6. #6
    You Know!? For Kids! jsharr's Avatar
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    i went looking for koolstops at LBS, they were out, and came home with new Dura Ace pads that are AWESOME compared to the pad that came stock on my Trek 1200. Tons more feel and modulation, seem grippier. Have not really had to panic stop on them yet, but should probably try a few to know what to expect. hope this helps.
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  7. #7
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    I can't imagine a world without Kool-Stops...no little **** scrapers on my brake pads...how sad

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    Check these pads out from Swissstop. I like them better than kool stop:
    http://www.njroadclub.com/docs/Swissstop.shtml

  9. #9
    Used to be a climber.. GuitarWizard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NJWheelBuilder
    Check these pads out from Swissstop. I like them better than kool stop:
    http://www.njroadclub.com/docs/Swissstop.shtml
    Where can you get 'em?
    1999 Trek 2500 - hit by a car on it in May, 2011 and currently bikeless

  10. #10
    118AHC "Thunderbirds" 2372ighost's Avatar
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    Swisstop

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    1006 Birchview Crescent
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    www.helvetiasports.com

  11. #11
    118AHC "Thunderbirds" 2372ighost's Avatar
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  12. #12
    Used to be a climber.. GuitarWizard's Avatar
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    Wow....nearly $30 for brake pads. I think I can hold out with my Ultegras a bit longer....
    1999 Trek 2500 - hit by a car on it in May, 2011 and currently bikeless

  13. #13
    me have long head tube TallRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubie
    I think Kool Stop makes brake pads specifically for ceramic rims. I have regular Kool Stops (black) on my hybrid and they're much better than the stock brake pads.
    Mavic "CD" rims aren't ceramic; "SUP" is the code for ceramic on Mavic rims.
    Don't use pads designed for ceramic rims on non-ceramic rims; they'll eat up your rim's sidewall pretty quickly.

  14. #14
    ride, paint, ride simplify's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by timcupery
    "SUP" is the code for ceramic on Mavic rims.
    Are you sure about that? As far as I knew, "SUP" referred only to the manner in which the seam was welded.

    By the way, I vote for Kool Stop black pads. Even rim-friendlier than the salmons and still good in bad weather.

  15. #15
    Senior Member juicemouse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by timcupery
    Mavic "CD" rims aren't ceramic; "SUP" is the code for ceramic on Mavic rims.
    Don't use pads designed for ceramic rims on non-ceramic rims; they'll eat up your rim's sidewall pretty quickly.
    Quote Originally Posted by lawkd
    Are you sure about that? As far as I knew, "SUP" referred only to the manner in which the seam was welded.
    Mavic speak:

    CD = hard anodized
    Ceramic = ceramic coated
    SUP = welded rim seam
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  16. #16
    Senior Member
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    Yes, the CD designation is "hard anodized" which is strictly a cosmetic treatment and, thankfully, wears off of the brake tracks pretty quickly. I had Open 4CD rims on my '96 Litespeed for a few years and the anodizing was gone from the brake tracks within 1000 miles. I sure didn't miss it and braking improved when it was gone. They worked fine with then current Ultegra pads.

    Hard anodizing, despite the advertising claims, does nothing for rim strength, rigidity or longevity. In fact, it can hurt rim life as the brittle surface can act a stress raiser when (not if) it cracks. My rear Open 4CD rim cracked through the sidewall at 12,000 miles. It was the shortest lived rim I've ever had.

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