gm1230126

Before you go knocking Shimano and saying that there stuff is crap and doesn't work.....have you ever considered examining the persons knowledge that's trying to make it work? Are you well read on Shimano and do you totaly understand things such as chainline, bottom bracket length/spacing, and derailleur stop screw adjustment?

Another thing to consider is the fact that annually Shimano gives bike and frame manufacturers the necessary specs for frame construction to maxiimize component performance. It may be that you are putting parts on a frame that doesn't have optimum seat tube angles. Perhaps the frame was made three years before the componentry was introduced? Just because it's a frame doesn't mean that all parts are engineered to work on it. The frame was engineered in a certain manner that may not allow all components to work on it equally well. I worked in the industry and made the annual visits to Shimano when the new components were introduced annually and there were things that changed every year depending upon their new designs and features of the new components. We and the factories that produced our frames and bike changed our frame designs to meet Shimano's optimum suggested performance when we wanted to spec Shimano parts. Let's not go bashing the company that has spent more money and time in component design than all others combined until we ourselves have made that same investment and introduced some of the many great products that they have brought to the market over the past 25-30 years. Enuff said.

gm1230126

If your FD is still hitting the 52T chainring at the top of the FD stroke your crank, you either need to raise the front derailleur a couple millimeters up the seat tube or your crank is likely spaced too far out and you should probably also be checking your chainline to insure it's not out too far.

juicemouse

Right, it's indexing with one trim position between each index point (for a triple). There's a big difference between that and Campy's system, which throws 13 or so clicks into the front shifter and lets you figure it out.

gmoneyhobbit

im on my last leg with shimano xtr

seely

Good then send it to me.

msheron

I will be the first to admit...............mechanically, just getting into it with no formal training. The FD sold to me was stated as being used on both 9 spd. and 10 spd. triples. There was no chain ring specs. as to which it would work for or not, my fault to a degree for not knowing and being informed.

I have found a 6503 Ultegra triple 9 spd. at my LBS that will work. For those who don't like their LBS.............I have to say, I have one of the best. They worked with the indexing of the 105 FD and got it back right since I don't feel comfortable cabling my bike. In fact, Jenny, the mech. who did this for me did such a great job, it is now almost silent in any gear combo I can go to!

Kudo's to LIberty Bicycles in Asheville, NC!

I still have alot to learn as far as mechanical skills! I lashed out due to my frustration with this damn FD nightmare which seems to go on. As far as Campy vs. Shimano, who knows, there are people in both camps.

Your points are well taken and my Irish temper is subsided for now. Anyone have some good Irish whiskey?

msheron

BTW-
I now understand the teeth capacity for the proper FD (Large chain ring teeth - smallest chain ring teeth=!). Learned that from my LBS as well. They have been so helpful. Thanks for all who listened, or actually read my rant. I needed to vent somewhat.

I need a mech. school but don't want to travel to get it. Anyone know of schools in the NC area?

cascade168

Yeh, temper can get in your way at times. I know mine has. Hey, so you are human ;-)

Thanks for having the guts to publish the truth about how this played out. I admire you for that and you deserve credit for your honesty.

So, would you settle for a Guinness?

fmw

If it helps, this is how I set up a front derailleur. Loosen the limit screws. Click the shifter until it is in the position that will have the cable untensioned (small chain ring position.) Tighten the low limit screw until it makes contact. Thread the cable and take all the slack out of it. Tighten the screw that holds the cable to the derailleur arm. Spin the crank and shift to the large ring. Tighten the high limit screw until it makes contact. That's it. That will get the front derailleur working as it should almost every time, Campy or Shimano, double or triple.

sam83

Been there with the frustration!!!!

REI has a pretty good one-day class every so often. Check for a location near you on REI.com.

gm1230126

Check to see if any tech schools in your state have a mechanics program. Might be a possibilty.

Put your zip code in this link. Many shops are running 12 our, day long and two day "Park Tool School" courses and there may be one within a decent drive from where you are located. https://www.parktool.com/wheretobuy/l...ageField22.y=5

Also the best shop in your area is Epic Cycles in Black Mouontain owned by Allan Hightower. He's a former product guru and industry inside man that worked for Dia Compe USA and then Cane Creek when it changed names. He was also a product tech guy for Weinmann and Sun/Ringle. His staff is very knowledgeable and if you like good hard trail riding they have an awesome group mountain ride on Wednesdays.

TallRider

I've had it with Shimano FD's and so I went with... Suntour.
Actually, I've had no trouble with Shimano FD's, I just went with a SunTour when I built up this bike 11 years ago because
(1) we had it around the shop
(2) it was a very good derailler, whether Suntour had recently gone down or not
(3) I was building a triple drivetrain on a road bike, and such componentry wasn't easily available then
(4) using friction shifting (down-tube shifters, later bar-end) for the FD

Al1943

Shimano:

https://cycle.shimano-eu.com/catalog/...=1140973399244

https://cycle.shimano-eu.com/publish/...bility.pdf.pdf

Actually the 10-speed Ultegra crankset is 52-39-30, it's the D-A that's 53-39-30. The front derailleurs are designed to run best in their specific groups. The depths and widths of the rails are not the same as the 9-speed groups. I don't mean to say that you can't make one group work with another but when mixing 9-speed and 10-speed components that it's going to work better if you have the specific derailleur for the group. I suspect that a 9-speed derailleur will work better with a 10-speed crankset than the other way around because the 9-sp is wider. And several forum posters have reported using 9-speed front and rear derailleurs successfully with 10-speed cranksets, but I've also seen reports of problems trying to make a 10-speed front derailleur work with a 9-speed crankset.

Al

TMB

What utter nonsense. If you want Campy shifters and derailleurs, then buy those. You do not have to use a Campy hub or even a Campy cassette.

You can use a Shimano hub and you can use an American Classic CAssette or a Wheels Mfg. CAssette ( both are available at excel sports), or you can use a Shimano cassette with a new spacer set ( replace the shimano spacers with campy compatible spacers).

You can even use a Shimano Cassette with Campy shifters and derailleurs by installing Jtek Shiftmate at a cost of about $35.

If you do not want to replace the rear derailleur then you can run Campy shifters with Shimano Derailleurs and CAssettes - agian by installing a Jtek Shiftmate (peterwhitecycles.com).

There is NO compatibility issue with front derailleurs - the Campy shifter will shift any FD.

I have and use all of these items and they work perfectly well when properly adjusted.

cascade168

Marketing people love folks like you. All any of that really says, if you take the time to read it carefully, is that you need a ten speed chain to work properly with the FD that is designed for a ten speed chain. To upgrade 9spd>10spd all you need are three things - chain, shifters, and cassette. This has been accomplished successfully a zillion times and it's been covered many times on this forum. Shimano would LOVE to sell you a new FD and crankset, too, but it's just not necessary. Yes, once you do go to the narrower cage FD then you ARE going to need do the complete upgrade (again, Shimano LOVES you). If you feel the need to spend the additional $300 (for Ultegra - to make it "all" 10spd), then more power to you. And, if your crank upgrade converts you from Octalink to Hollowtech, then you can add on more for the new bottom bracket you'll be buying. Those compatability charts are really nice for a salesperson to pull out and say, "Well, you really need to buy a new crankset, FD, and bottom bracket to do the upgrade from 9>10spd properly. See, it's right here (points at chart)". Cyclists that do their homework know better. You'll notice that the chart does not show the case of the well known upgrade path (chain, shifters, and cassette only). Why do you think that is?

The case of trying to use 9spd components with a narrow cage (i.e. 10spd) FD is a bit silly. Again, it's all about the chain. If you use a 10spd chain, then it's likely ok. With a 9spd chain, then yes, it's likely to give problems. Yup, once you've purchased that narrow cage FD then you are in for the whole tamale and using any 9spd components makes no sense (what was the point of the upgrade?).

Al1943

[QUOTE=cascade168]Marketing people love folks like you. All any of that really says, if you take the time to read it carefully, is that you need a ten speed chain to work properly with the FD that is designed for a ten speed chain. To upgrade 9spd>10spd all you need are three things - chain, shifters, and cassette. This has been accomplished successfully a zillion times ]

And maybe you should go back and read my post instead of jumping to conclusions.

I said that "several forum posters have reported using 9-speed front and rear derailleurs with 10-speed cranksets". My point was that it doesn't work well the other way around, 10-speed derailleurs on a 9-speed triple crankset, which is what the original poster seems to have tried. No one else was talking about 9-speed derailleurs on a 10-speed crankset. You have completely misread my post and sidetracked the thread.

And I have said in many previous posts that all you need to upgrade from 9-speed to 10-speed are shifters, cassette, chain, that's common knowledge. It's just not what this thread is about.