50+ Newby needs to raise handle bars
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50+ Newby needs to raise handle bars
I recently purchased a Schwinn S-25 MB to use on paths to get some excercise. So far I really like the bike but I would like to raise the handle bars. The stem or neck that goes into the mozo m30 folk needs to be at least 3 inches higher. Can someone recommend ways to raise the hanble bars? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
OldCop
Thanks,
OldCop
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Originally Posted by OldCop
I recently purchased a Schwinn S-25 MB to use on paths to get some excercise. So far I really like the bike but I would like to raise the handle bars. The stem or neck that goes into the mozo m30 folk needs to be at least 3 inches higher. Can someone recommend ways to raise the hanble bars? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
OldCop
Thanks,
OldCop
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=
If you have a 1" threaded HS, you could get an adapter such as this first:
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=
When in doubt, run that sucka into your LBS, they make have some extenders available or longer quill type stems.
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Thanks for your responce capwater. I apparently have the threadless. It's a nice day here today so I plan on riding this afternoon after which I'll check closer. I really just want to get in a more upright position, my wrist really begin to hurt after a while. I'm primarily interested in a smooth ride. Thanks again,
OldCop
OldCop
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Nashbar also offers a 1-1/8" adjustable threadless stem that you can angle up to suit your needs. The S/N is NS-ADJS and it's on sale for $25 in the current sales flyer.
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The S-25 already comes with a steep rise stem so I dont think the adjustable stem will give you any more rise. You will have to either use the extender capwater pointed to or get some bars with some rise built in. Smooth tread tires will also make the ride easier and more comfortable.
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Keep in mind that if you raise your bars up 3 inches you may encounter cable issues with them being too short.
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I looked at pics of the bike, and the stock stem is pretty high angle in the first place. I would opt for the extender and not the adjustable stem. Also, get someone who knows what they're doing to put it on for you. When you put on a stem you're adjusting bearings and you don't even know it, and doing it wrong and riding like that can get into the $100 range pretty fast.
However, I wouldn't do that immediately. Wrist pain on short rides is mostly the product of bad fit/adjustment in other parts of the bike, combined with not being able to move your hands to different positions. I'm guessing you bought the bike at target, so there was probably no fitting done by the shop. You can google around and read up on this subject, I'd offer some starting points but I don't really do mountain bikes so all of my rules of thumb for road bikes are useless. However, barring any stem retrofits the only adjustment you have is the height and front to back position of the seat. Running the seat forward a little might be a good starting place; I would just put the metric hexes in my back pocket and go for the old "rolling tuneup." Again, though, do some homework and you will also find out this affects your knees, which may start to hurt as well. Riding a full suspension bike on paved roads is already overworking your knees, so this could be an issue.
I would also get some bar ends (nashbar link below, but any shop will have them) that bolt on the ends of your existing bars and give you some different hand positions. Might have to razor blade the existing grips to make room for them, but they will be the quickest and easiest solution. I ride for hours at a time on a regular basis, but I'd start to hate life pretty quick if I only had one handlebar position. Again, put them on, take the wrench with you, and adjust the angle as you like.
I would also get some gloves. Even the cheapest $10 pair of cycling gloves will give you a better grip on the bars, which means you have to use your hand/wrist muscles less (especially once things get sweaty), which means less pain. You'll also want them to use with the bar ends, which will be bare metal, and they'll pay for themselves in a hurry if you ever take a spill. Finally, be conscious of your wrist alignment. It's easy to let your wrist roll back like you were throttling up a motorcycle, but making yourself keep your arm bones pointed at the bar and not below it will also save you some pain.
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=
However, I wouldn't do that immediately. Wrist pain on short rides is mostly the product of bad fit/adjustment in other parts of the bike, combined with not being able to move your hands to different positions. I'm guessing you bought the bike at target, so there was probably no fitting done by the shop. You can google around and read up on this subject, I'd offer some starting points but I don't really do mountain bikes so all of my rules of thumb for road bikes are useless. However, barring any stem retrofits the only adjustment you have is the height and front to back position of the seat. Running the seat forward a little might be a good starting place; I would just put the metric hexes in my back pocket and go for the old "rolling tuneup." Again, though, do some homework and you will also find out this affects your knees, which may start to hurt as well. Riding a full suspension bike on paved roads is already overworking your knees, so this could be an issue.
I would also get some bar ends (nashbar link below, but any shop will have them) that bolt on the ends of your existing bars and give you some different hand positions. Might have to razor blade the existing grips to make room for them, but they will be the quickest and easiest solution. I ride for hours at a time on a regular basis, but I'd start to hate life pretty quick if I only had one handlebar position. Again, put them on, take the wrench with you, and adjust the angle as you like.
I would also get some gloves. Even the cheapest $10 pair of cycling gloves will give you a better grip on the bars, which means you have to use your hand/wrist muscles less (especially once things get sweaty), which means less pain. You'll also want them to use with the bar ends, which will be bare metal, and they'll pay for themselves in a hurry if you ever take a spill. Finally, be conscious of your wrist alignment. It's easy to let your wrist roll back like you were throttling up a motorcycle, but making yourself keep your arm bones pointed at the bar and not below it will also save you some pain.
https://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename=
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If possible, you would be much better off returning the bike to the store where you got it and visiting a good bike shop in your area. Although it will cost more money, a good shop can recommend a bike suited to your riding objectives and get you one that is in your size and adjusted to you. There are many nice cruiser or hybrid bikes that would let you ride more upright with less pressure on your hands.
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Good point; if you can return it, do so. It isn't really the right bike for what you want to do. Only take my above advice if you need to love the one you're with, as it were.
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Thanks folks, I got the bike last August and quite frankly I like it. I know that it's not really a Schwinn but I think it's going to serve my purpose right now. I hope to get the wife to start riding this year and if we get serious about it I'm sure we will upgrade. We rode quite a bit while the boys were young but that's been a good while back now, oldest graduated college and is flying jets, youngest is half way thru the Naval Academy. Empty nest now.
Something funny is while at lunch I went by the LBS and asked about a stem to raise the level of my handle bars and was told they don't make them, you have to buy new handle bars.
Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions, I really appreciate your input. I have ordered the Delta stem that you all suggested.
Have a great day, see you later,
OldCop
Something funny is while at lunch I went by the LBS and asked about a stem to raise the level of my handle bars and was told they don't make them, you have to buy new handle bars.
Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions, I really appreciate your input. I have ordered the Delta stem that you all suggested.
Have a great day, see you later,
OldCop
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Take a look at https://www.yellowjersey.org/stemz.html for any stem you could imagine.
Welcome and happy riding......
Welcome and happy riding......
#12
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Very surprised that the Bike Shop told you that you could only get new handlebars. They should have no problems whatsoever ordering either a threadless adjustable angle stem or some type of fork steerer tube extension. I am sure that Quality Bike, a bike parts wholesaler out of Minnesota, should have these parts. You can get a higher 'u-shaped' upright handlebar, but, as noted, you may have to get longer shift and brake wires and outer core.
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If you get wrist pain, you should adjust the position of the brake levers so your wrists are straight when you rest your fingers on the brake levers
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Or you can put these handlebars on by Nashbar. I have them on three bikes and the way they work is that it places the bar closer to you when you set the bar up the way I did. And it will give you 3 positions to grab onto. Look at the pic of my bike and consider it. How this work is if you notice the stem is bolted to the center of the bar, so the bar that will end up closer to you, it will be quite a bit closer; leading to a more upright posture. I know that is why I am using them, and it allows for more position to change up on.
Also here is the web site of the bar.
https://www.nashbar.com/profile_morei...ku=9756&brand=
Also here is the web site of the bar.
https://www.nashbar.com/profile_morei...ku=9756&brand=
Last edited by rmwun54; 03-08-06 at 05:31 PM.