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Clearcoating labels?

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Old 03-12-06, 09:49 AM
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I've put a custom label (vinyl) on my bike and am thinking about how to best preserve it, maybe with a clearcoat.

There's lots in the archives about taking labels off and repainting bikes but not about coating labels. Does it matter what the label is made of? ie. vinyl or decals, glossy computer sticker paper? I assume people clear coat with a spray bottle so the clear coat gets on the surrounding painted area of your bike which presumably is also clearcoated. Can any clearcoat be sprayed over another clearcoat, ie. will it react with the previous clearcoat or affect the existing finish in a detrimental way. I guess maybe you try it under your bottom bracket first?

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Old 03-12-06, 10:18 AM
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First, let me say that I am not a painter, but have done some of it. Others may have a different opinion or experience, but here are my thoughts.

I don't think clear coating over vinyl stickers is a good idea. They are considerably thicker than decals, and I can imagine that some clear coats might craze them. I guess you could test the material to determine this. The amount of clear you'd have to apply to smooth them out could be substantial. How much area would you have to clear coat beyond the sticker and maintain a wet, clean edge? A good quality vinyl sticker is pretty tough. I'd live with it naked! My $.02
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Old 03-12-06, 10:31 AM
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I'd talk to someone familiar with painting bikes but I know for a fact that they do clear coat over labels. I'm having a LeMond frame repainted and the painter is going to clearcoat over the decals.
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Old 03-12-06, 11:30 AM
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I made new tags for me Trek 6000 using vinyl automobile trim tape and painted clear coat over, just use several thin coats instead of a thick coat and I don't think you will have any trouble.
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Old 03-12-06, 11:39 AM
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Some vinyls will have their edges peel up upon application of clearcoat.
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Old 03-12-06, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SDRider
I'd talk to someone familiar with painting bikes but I know for a fact that they do clear coat over labels. I'm having a LeMond frame repainted and the painter is going to clearcoat over the decals.
Decals are differnt from vinyl stickers. I agree with SDRider, talk to a body shop or custom bike painter to confirm what products would work best, or at all.
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Old 03-12-06, 12:06 PM
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Maybe I should have asked on bikeforms before getting the label made up: What type of label is best to put on a bike? Vinyl, a decal, or what? esp. if you are going to clearcoat it.

However, the vinyl label (white on clear) looks good, actually it looks like it was put on in the factory. It seems to be pretty tough although I've only had it on for a couple of months and I think that with a bit of effort and a sharp fingernail it can be taken off with out damaging the paint too. I had it made up at an auto sign/decal place and they said this is what they usually put on commercial vehicles now.

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Old 03-12-06, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bccycleguy
Maybe I should have asked before getting the label made up: What type of label is best to put on a bike? Vinyl, a decal, or what? esp. if you are going to clearcoat it.
OK, I'll chime in on this one! If you have vinyl stickers made, get several made & put them on top of clear. Vinyl stickers are not meant to be clearcoated. Why not? Because the vinyl is pretty thick and clear will not bond to it. So if you lean your bike against something and it hits the clearcoated vinyl sticker, the clear will get ripped off easily, and possibly some of the vinyl. If the sticker is NOT clearcoated and it gets damaged, simply remove the remnants and apply a new sticker. No problem.

If you have to clear over, here's a suggestion. Have the vinyl cut with something called "spray mask". It is a low-tack vinyl used for airbrushing and comes off clean & easy. Use the "negative" of your image (lettering say) and stick it to the frame. Mask surrounding areas and spray the image with paint. Let dry and remove the spray mask. Now you have a "painted" image that is thinner & compatible with clear. So clear over this painted image and you will be all set.
As a note about the fuzzy edge of the new clear where it meats the old clear; When you are done spraying clear over the image, use some compatable thinner/reducer and spray the fuzzy area. The thinner will "melt" the fuzzy edge. This is what auto shops do when painting a repaired area. Proper spray equipment is needed as thinner/reducer is not available in rattle cans. And whatever you do, DON'T use ANY laquer paint on a bicycle! Especially the clear. (it will act like paint REMOVER on most bike finishes) Use auto paint or rattle can ENAMEL.

DECALS, on the other hand, are usually compatible with clear.(even laquer, but DON'T use laquer on a bike). decals are very thin and will only need 2-3 coats of clear to smooth them out. Again, you can smooth the fuzzy (dry, dusty) edge with a shot of thinner/reducer. Careful, go easy on this step. Turn down the flow adjustment on your gun and spray lightly once or twice along the fuzzy edge. Let dry COMPLETELY. Initially there may be some fogginess to the finish when you're done. Don't worry, some extra fine rubbing compound or glaze will shine that right up. NO SANDING needed.

Good luck with that, and if you need further elaboration on any of the above info, PM me and I'll clarify what I mean or what to do.

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Old 03-12-06, 12:50 PM
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Thanks for all the input everyone. That answers my question
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Old 03-12-06, 02:49 PM
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Great information Dr. D. I've always wondered the best way to tackle this process. Thanks... OHB
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Old 03-16-06, 12:54 AM
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Speaking of decals...

I am in the midst of undecalling a carbon frame and wish to have some decals made to be put under the clearcoat. Any online places that anyone recommends? I was thinking of getting only a few made for both sides of the downtube. Say.. 2 inches by 12 inches.
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