Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Senior Member askrom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    205
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    I need some tips on installing Campy Ergo Brifters/Ders

    Anything I should know? This is my first time installing indexed shifters/derailleurs, so it would be great to get an advance warning on any common pitfalls I should avoid. I don't want to spend another $50 on Campy cables!!

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    sch
    sch is offline
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Birmingham. AL
    Posts
    2,614
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The brifters, or mine did, came with an excellent set of directions and cables and housing. The cable was very nice with a conical fused end that made it easy to thread. Campy web site should have downloads of the directions if you have takeoffs. They are a bit particular about placement on the bar. It was pretty straight forward. Good quality electrical tape is handy for taping the housing down as it exits the brifter as a slightly unhandy angle. Hope your bars are nicely grooved for the cables. Cutting the housing lengths at the front can be tedious also as a little short or long results in ungainly bulges or lack of slack in the housing as it negotiates the space between the bar and the frame stops or front brake. Be careful here and be a little generous at first in your cutting, that is where those cone head fused campy cables are nice, you can thread and re thread without worry about unraveling. Rotate the front wheel full R/L to check the housing clearance and behavior.
    Steve

  3. #3
    my nice bike is at home kraftwerk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    My Bikes
    2011 BMC Race Machine / Colnago ct 1 / 80's Rossin / 90's Merlin/ 70's Raleigh 20/ Swift folder, etc.
    Posts
    668
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Can anyone post photo's of the process? That would really help... I am in the same boat.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    727
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by sch
    Good quality electrical tape is handy for taping the housing down as it exits the brifter as a slightly unhandy angle.
    I use strapping tape to secure housing when working with Ergolevers.
    i ride bikes.

  5. #5
    Chairman of the Bored catatonic's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    St. Petersburg, FL
    My Bikes
    2004 Raleigh Talus, 2001 Motobecane Vent Noir (Custom build for heavy riders)
    Posts
    5,825
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I use electrical tape, but I don't settle for a simple loop..I literally wrap the tape about 4-5 turns down the bar as I go. This assures a very secure hold.

    When doing the brifters, set up the brake cables last, and then tape it all up. Reason for this is brakes are many times easier to run than shift cables.

    Make sure that you use the right housings. Shift cable has many smaller wires inside of the housing. Brake housing has a flat metal coil instead. You can often tell brake housing from deraileur since brake housing is usually more flexible.

    Pretty much it installs like any other brifter/der sertup. They are very picky as far as adjusting them....just be patient.

    Front Der should be as close to the teeth of the big ring as possible. I run about 3mm clearance.

    Also remember to check the jockey pulleys on the rear der for proper lube, re-lubing it if needed.
    -------- __@
    ----- _`\<,_
    ---- (*)/ (*)
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Ring Ring, Ring Ring, the bell went Ring Ring Ring.

  6. #6
    Senior Member juicemouse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Happy Valley
    Posts
    813
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by fore
    I use strapping tape to secure housing when working with Ergolevers.
    +1

    The 3M stuff doesn't leave behind a bunch of nastiness when you change out your cables & housings.
    It is my belief that every person in this world has something to teach, and everything to learn.

    In memory of Jim Price (aka. sydney) ...

  7. #7
    hello roadfix's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Los Angeles
    My Bikes
    thank you for asking
    Posts
    18,502
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Invest in a nice set of T-handle allen wrenches if you can. It'll make reaching in and tightening the ErgoLever mounting bolts under the hoods an easy task. If you don't want to buy the entire set, at least get the 5mm wrench to perform this installation.
    Last edited by roadfix; 03-18-06 at 10:39 AM.
    .cinelli.olympic.surly.long.haul.trucker.kona.ku.surly.steamroller.
    .litespeed.classic.litespeed.firenze.bianchi.pista.dean.colonel.plus.more.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Deanster04's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Boulder, Colorado
    My Bikes
    Cinelli Supercoursa 69, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Mondonico Diamond Extra 05, Coors Light Greg Lemond (built by Scapin) 88, Scapin MTB, Stumpjumper 83, Specialized Stumpjumper M4, Lemond Poprad 2001
    Posts
    1,366
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Added to above:
    1) Take some time and find the ideal location of the levers on the bars BEFORE you add the cables. Move the shifters around until your hands and arms "feel" right. Don't worry if the shifters are exactly the same.
    2) Add the cable housings to the brakes without the cables to find the proper length. LEAVE THE CABLE HOUSINGS longer than you think you. need especially the front brake cable.
    3) Remember double sided ferrules if you need to add length to your cables later.
    Good Luck.

  9. #9
    Senior Member askrom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    205
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for all the tips. I took a couple of photos a little late in the process, but thought they might help folks here.

    Installing the cables was easy. Finding the two different holes for the different cables was easy, and threading them through was pretty easy, too. The first hard part came when you start deciding on cable length.... the trick is to get the handlebars/brifters 100% set up before doing any cutting. By 100%, I mean get those cables in position, and tape em down so they don't move. As said above, you're gonna need to rotate the handlebars to check length, and you can't do that if the cables are still flopping around.

    I have double-grooved handlebars, and for the tape here I am using a strong, fiber-reinforced packing or duct tape type stuff -- I find electrical tape too prone to stretching, making it kinda useless.

    Because I position my brifters a little higher than most, the curvature of the derailleur cable as it exits the brifter is a little tight. It wanted to kinda stick upwards, so when I taped it down, the first thing I did was wrap the tape in a loop around the cable once, allowing me to use the tape not just to hold the cable housing down, but to be able to pull it into a particular position:


    Here you can see how I used the loop above to "pull" the part of the cable housing right as it exits the brifter downwards a little to pull it closer to the handlebar groove. I know this will eventually slip back up a little, but I want to do whatever I can to align it now.


    The inner groove is for the brakes, and that was pretty easy. I used the same strip of tape to hold this one down, as it didn't require any adjustment to line it up with the handlebar groove.


    Cutting the brake cable housing was easy, as it is a traditional spiral-type metal casing that clips nicely with a pair of normal wire cutters. The hard part is the derailleur cables

    Instead of going ahead and chopping the derailleur cables, I went all the way to one end and dissected it to see what was inside. WOW! It's a bundle of some incredibly stiff wires, all running parallel to the cable itself.


    How the hell do I cut this stuff? My wire cutters are just rolling over the whole bundle. Do I need to clip them one at a time or something?

  10. #10
    Senior Member juicemouse's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Happy Valley
    Posts
    813
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by askrom
    [snipped] How the hell do I cut this stuff? My wire cutters are just rolling over the whole bundle. Do I need to clip them one at a time or something?
    Dremel with a fibre-reinforced cutoff disk. Works like a charm.

    Pulling the housing into place with a wrap of strapping tape like you did there is exactly the method I use. Nice work! Just be sure those bends aren't so tight that they cause undue cable friction.
    It is my belief that every person in this world has something to teach, and everything to learn.

    In memory of Jim Price (aka. sydney) ...

  11. #11
    Faith-Vigilance-Service Patriot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Port Orchard, WA
    My Bikes
    Trinity, Paradisus, Centurion, Mongoose, Trek
    Posts
    8,333
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    They sell actual cable/housing cutters at bike shops for $10. I tried a wire cutters once. Bad idea. Then, I got a cable cutter from the LBS. Good idea.
    President, OCP
    --"Will you have some tea... at the theatre with me?"--

  12. #12
    Senior Member askrom's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    205
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well, I was impatient so I just went ahead and cut the cable housing manually, one thread at a time. It's not pretty, but it worked. Thanks for all the tips! It really helped to be patient (with everything else besides the housing cutting! ), to measure everything three separate times before cutting anything, to use tape to position things carefully and exactly, and to delay cutting the cable itself until the very very end (as sch said above, the conical tip was really helpful!).

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •