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  1. #1
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    What do I do about this?



    Nothing but bunny hops and curb jumping, it gets ridden around college here at Purdue, other than that, it hasn't seen much abuse. Should I just go ahead and get a new set of forks and put them on myself? Whats involved in putting on a new set of forks? I'm a pretty good mechanic, but mostly on jeeps, never really messed with bikes. Or, is this something I need to just take to my LBS and have them take care of it? How much would that cost for the part plus labor? I dont really need a nice set of forks, just something that will work like the originals did. Thanks for all the help guys, and sorry for the noob questions.

  2. #2
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    You're getting a new fork. Probably something you could do yourself if you already have basic tools, take it slow, and read up on it first. You'll need the shop to pull the old crown race and install it on the new fork for you, unless it's an integeated crown race (can't tell by googling, give use a pic of the next foot of bike above where your others leave off). They will probably also install a new star nut or pull the old one and put it in, but either way you need to have that done pro. You'll also get to learn how to adjust a headset, but if you're mechanically inclined enough to understand how a cup and cone bearing system works you'll be fine.

    I'm intentionally not defining my terms here because once you read up on how to do this at parktool.com, you will know what I'm talking about, and also know if you're going to want to attempt this yourself. I'm also assuming that this is a threadless headset, if it's a threaded rig the install isn't really different but the length cut has to be a little more precise and the headset adjustment might require a new tool. Like I said, show us the head tube and the stem.

    Also, get yourself a real lock, I could cut that rig with dikes in broad daylight and not even look like I was stealing it. At least you know how to lock up, though.

  3. #3
    You need a new bike supcom's Avatar
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    You are definitely going shopping for a fork. Yours is scrap.

    While you could install the new fork yourself, an LBS may only charge $20-$25 to do it for you. Getting the crown race off the old fork and on the new one without the "proper" tools is tricky, but can be done. Depends how quickly you want the job done and how much cash you have left over after your trip to Fork City.

    Then again, depending on the value of the bike (I noticed the Schwinn brand) it may be cheaper to just replace the whole bike.

  4. #4
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    Ya, its definately not an expensive race bike of any sort. I have just been kind of getting into reading a little bit about them on here, and thought I would post this up on here. It's actually my roommates bike, problem is I was riding it when we found the problem......so looks like I'm fixin it for him, its cool though.

    As for a new fork, I really don't need anything special, just a base model thats going to get this thing campus worthy again. So if its 20-25 bucks to have it installed, could I just buy a cheap fork on the internet and take it to my LBS and have them put it on for 20-25 bucks?

    If I do get a cheap fork on the internet for it, and have it put on, what place do i get it from, and more importantly, what fork? BTW, i'll take another pic of the headtube tomorrow sometime and throw it up here, but if its only gonna be 25 bucks to put it on, I'll probably just go that route. Thanks so much for your help guys!

  5. #5
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    $25 for fork installation? Sure, why not. This is the problem with doing most of my own work, I never know what the heck to tell people a shop is going to charge them. I work for beer most of the time, and I find that the shops don't seem to charge twice as much for what I would consider a 12 pack job (fork install like this), as they would for a 6 pack job (my shifting sucks, can you fix it?).

    Something you should be warned about is that shops can be a little bit cagey about installing parts bought elsewhere. The expectation of selling you the parts is built in to a lot of their installation/repair rates, so they might want a little extra if you BYOP. This is kind of how it goes, you should pay them so long as they are straight with you up front, but if they want to lecture you on the moral virtues of local bike shops and how you are killing them by shopping online, tell them that attitudes like that are why people buy bikes at the 'marts and sporting goods chains, and take your business elsewhere. I'd call them for a quote before you started messing around looking for a cheap fork on the net anyway, as you might not end up saving much by the time you find one, get it shipped, etc...

  6. #6
    Sometimes knows stuff. rmfnla's Avatar
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    Am I missing something here? Why isn't anyone mentioning WARRANTY?!

    Most frames have lifetime coverage; take it to a Schwinn shop (say that fast three times) and act outraged, including a subtle mention of how you could have been injured and that your Uncle Lennie the P.I. lawyer is really interested...

    Seriously, the whole thing is probably covered by the manufacturer.
    Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...

  7. #7
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Hard to tell much from the photo, but this looks like a dept. store Schwinn. I agree, check into getting it replaced under warranty (although if you're dealing with X-Mart, good luck on getting your bike repaired there). If warranty doesn't cover it, this bike is a candidate for the dumpster, simply not cost feasible to put another fork on it, in my opinion......the most important thing is to NOT ride it, that thing's a deathtrap......Put your money into a used, but decent, mtb, even if it's a fully rigid model (no suspension). For the type of riding you're describing, that would be your best bet. Good luck-

    edit: if you do end up trashing the bike, strip the frame of its parts, particularly the wheels and brakes. Always good to have spares. And I hope you don't take offense by my suggestion, I'm just thinking of the money you'd have in it by the time you buy even a used fork, have it shipped, have it installed, etc. Hopefully, if you bought it new, the store will take care of it for you under warranty-
    Last edited by well biked; 04-19-06 at 03:58 PM. Reason: additional info

  8. #8
    I eat carbide. Psimet2001's Avatar
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    Purdue eh???

    Try Mulhapts (sp) Lock and Key/Bike Shop in downtown just across the river (around 5th street and Higgins I think). They're your local Schwinn dealer to check on warranty.

    If not covered then buy a replacement fork how you see fit. Hodson's Bay on the levee close to campus has a good shop and won't charge you too much to swap out the fork. Anything $30 and over and I'd say get in contact with the Purdue Cycling Club. Show up at a meeting and one of two things will happen... you'll dicover a group of people that have a lot in common with you, and/or you'll find someone with the right tools who'll show you how to swap it in exchange for beer, or entrance to a list party you have access to.....ahh the good old days...

    FYI: Psimet2001 = Purdue Student In Mechanical Engineering Technology (Graduated in) 2001...

  9. #9
    I eat carbide. Psimet2001's Avatar
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    Oh...and if you find a old rusted red Schwinn World Sport with orange bar tape on it rusting away in a bike rack then feel free to cut the lock and take it. It's my old one and I can't remember where I left it.....uhh....'cause.....I was in a hurry to get to class

  10. #10
    Sensible shoes. CastIron's Avatar
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    The cheap and dirty (and yeah, risky) option is to get some good old fashioned JB Weld and epoxy that sucker back together. Note I didn't say it was a 'good' option.
    Mike
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    It looks silly when you have quotes from other forum members in your signature. Nobody on this forum is that funny.
    Quote Originally Posted by cedricbosch View Post
    Why am I in your signature.

  11. #11
    You need a new bike supcom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CastIron
    The cheap and dirty (and yeah, risky) option is to get some good old fashioned JB Weld and epoxy that sucker back together. Note I didn't say it was a 'good' option.
    That is not an option.

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