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Old 05-01-06, 08:54 PM   #1
Sincitycycler
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Anything to beware of when removing/installing a cassette?

What tools do I need? on of those chain gizmos and the crank puller/wrench tool?

I just want to be able to chain my gearing without having to run to the LBS all of the time!
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Old 05-01-06, 08:59 PM   #2
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"Another Frikin' cassette removal/installation thread . . . riiiiiight"

Come on, man! We've got one other thread on exactly this topic right on the first page and probably hundreds more not too far back.
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Old 05-01-06, 09:45 PM   #3
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Maybe there should be a sticky for FAQs if this is a recurring issue?
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Old 05-01-06, 10:03 PM   #4
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Things to beware of? Sure. The mechanic may have cranked the locknut down so tight you bruise your hands pushing on the tools. My 12-25 was cranked on so hard the inside spacer was dented. If the tire is on, (no reason to take it off, of course) make sure it's inflated fully. I couldn't budge mine til I took the bounce out of the tire. Maybe someone can pipe up here with a good reason for torquing these down so hard. That would be useful advice. More useful than slagging Sin.
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Old 05-01-06, 10:25 PM   #5
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http://www.parktool.com/repair/byreg...mageField2.y=9

Lists tools and procedure.

@starclimber - no idea why they may have torqued it down so hard. Buy a good torque wrench and do it yourself... Torque recommendations are usually marked clearly on the lockring.
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Old 05-01-06, 10:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starclimber
Things to beware of? Sure. The mechanic may have cranked the locknut down so tight you bruise your hands pushing on the tools. My 12-25 was cranked on so hard the inside spacer was dented. If the tire is on, (no reason to take it off, of course) make sure it's inflated fully. I couldn't budge mine til I took the bounce out of the tire. Maybe someone can pipe up here with a good reason for torquing these down so hard. That would be useful advice. More useful than slagging Sin.
The reason they torque them down so hard is to try to get more business out of you . . . you can't remove it (or bust your knuckles in the process) so you come back to the shop and beg them to take your money for it.

Happy?
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Old 05-02-06, 12:03 AM   #7
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Ah, I see. The cassette in question was installed at the Flyte (formerly Airborne) assembly plant, so...

I guess it's possible they are in league with my LBS. The LBS mechanic tried to convince me that my feared bb issue was because of 'poor factory setup', when the nasty clicking was in fact...MY SEATPOST. Which, ummm, I installed. I didn't let them touch the bike after hearing that because the bike was, in fact, adjusted beautifully upon receipt.

Happy? Sure. 11-23 installed with no bruises, and none anticipated when it comes time to swap it out. And getting back to that original cassette installation, I came close to enlisting another set of arms to bust the bastard loose. Ridiculous!
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Old 05-02-06, 04:35 AM   #8
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After cleaning, make sure there is no junk sandwiched between the dozen odd pieces that can add additional space between cogs.
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Old 05-02-06, 07:36 PM   #9
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Use the quick release to hold the lockring tool in place if you need to remove an over tourqued lockring. Then watch out for spacers and where they were when you removed the cassette. I have a 12-23 cassette I can no longer use as I lost a spacer, and it won't tighten properly let alone shift correctly.

Last edited by DieselDan; 05-03-06 at 04:33 AM.
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Old 05-02-06, 07:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mphetameme
Maybe there should be a sticky for FAQs if this is a recurring issue?
there wouldnt be a mechanics forum anymore

What type of cassette?
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Old 05-02-06, 07:53 PM   #11
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Lube the threads on the lockring with grease when reinstalling.
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Old 05-02-06, 08:33 PM   #12
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look out for spiders
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Old 05-03-06, 12:09 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Lube the threads on the lockring with grease when reinstalling.
I discovered the hard way that grease on the engagement ring is a good idea as well.
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