Custom bullhorns?
I'd like to convert my road bike bar into bullhorns. Anybody tried this and is it possible to keep the same brake levers? I was thinking of taking the bar, turning it upside down, and cutting it in the begining of the 1st curve.
any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks. |
yes. many many people have done this. commonly called "flop and chop" or something similar. I'm sure there's plenty of discussion of this in the single-speed/fixed forum. usually this is done with either a pipe cutter or a hacksaw. make sure you have your setup the way you want before you cut so you know you'll be happy with the result.
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Thanks!
I'll check in the SS section. Any other advice would also be appreciated. |
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i highly recommend using a pipe cutter. Much cleaner cut. Very little filing needed.
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The pipe cutter is fine for Al bars, for steel you will probably break a couple of blades. They're great for doing BMX bars, but they're a real pain to use on the curve of drops.
if it's a 70's/80's road bike with the two position levers, you can take off the goofy suicide levers and mount the main lever upside down under the drops. This works quite well. |
I have used a craftsman pipe cutter on steel handle bars and frame tubing. It cuts fine but you will wear out/break blades. A replacement blades are cheap @ local hardware. I have used aero brake levers and the bull horn style, both worked well, but the bull horn style looked more "finished"
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Pipe cutters are difficult, if not impossible to use on curved sections of the bar.
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Yeah, I had mine inching along on the curves. need to have something to prevent that from happening. I don't know, maybe put some hose clamps on either side to keep the cutter in place?
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When I chopped mine I didn't have a pipe cutter. And as stated by The Fixer I don't think that a pipe cutter would even work on curved bars. I ended up using duct tape and a hack saw. I wrapped to strips of tape on either end of where I wanted to cut leaving about 1mm of bare bar exposed between. This acted like a guide for the blade. It makes a huge difference because it real hard to cut a straight line on a curved bar X2! The more tape you wrap the more support to hold the saw in line. This same method can also be applied to a stem if you dont wnat to buy one of those clamp guide thingys. Good luck!
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