Hubs
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 208
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hubs
I am interested to hear what you think about this issue. I would like to know if sealed hubs, those that come with the bearings in one unit, are better or worse than hubs with the loose bearings. From my experience, the sealed hubs seem to have more drag than the loose bearing hubs, but my experience is limited. As an example, I have a rear wheel with an older Sachs Quarz sealed bearing hub and another with a LX hub and the LX hub seems to roll much longer than the Sachs. I had new bearings put in the Sachs and it is still slower. I have been using the Sachs wheel for touring on two different bikes and it is very solid for that purpose. Just curious if there have been any studies on this. Thank you, Rich
#2
Ferrous wheel
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 1,388
Bikes: 2004 Gunnar Rock Hound MTB; 1988 Gitane Team Pro road bike; 1986-ish Raleigh USA Grand Prix; mid-'80s Univega Gran Tourismo with Xtracycle Free Radical
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I don't know about any studies, but I find that my non-sealed bearing hubs spin for a much longer time than my sealed Phils.
However, I expect to get tens of thousands of miles out of the Phils before the bearings need replacing. The non-sealed units I service every year or two.
However, I expect to get tens of thousands of miles out of the Phils before the bearings need replacing. The non-sealed units I service every year or two.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2025 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,095 Times
in
741 Posts
Seals are going to cause more drag than a non-sealed bearing but the difference is minor and the effect on your riding, particularly touring, will be insignificant.
Sealed bearing hubs are common on boutique wheels and the major holdouts for cup-and-cone bearings are Shimano and Campy. Cup-and-cone bearings have more tolerance for side-loads and, as noted, slightly less drag and are less expensive if repairs are needed but require more routine maintainance.
Either type can be completely satisfactory.
Sealed bearing hubs are common on boutique wheels and the major holdouts for cup-and-cone bearings are Shimano and Campy. Cup-and-cone bearings have more tolerance for side-loads and, as noted, slightly less drag and are less expensive if repairs are needed but require more routine maintainance.
Either type can be completely satisfactory.
#4
Making a kilometer blurry
Cost/benefit indicates cup/cone as a better hub in my opinion. If you're a hung up on weight, the sealed is the way to go, but for smoothness and durability, the cup/cone hubs have the edge. At the Ultegra or LX level, the price is really nice too. You can build an entire wheelset for less than the price of a single hub, and the performance difference will be miniscule.
#5
cab horn
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,353
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times
in
18 Posts
However, I expect to get tens of thousands of miles out of the Phils before the bearings need replacing. The non-sealed units I service every year or two.
#6
Cyclin' twosome
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 56
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
I suspect that, all else being equal (quality of material, internal finish & fit), the sealed bearing will last longer 'cause the seals (sides) of the cartridge bearing force the grease back into the spaces between the balls (rollers, etc.) as the bearing is turning. In a cup & cone bearing, the first rotation forces much of the grease sideways, out of the spaces between the balls, where there is nothing to push it back (hence the need to repack occasionally even if the bearing isn't contaminated w/dirt, etc). That's probably also one reason for the slightly increased rolling resistance of the cartridge bearing ('tho the Phils & old SunTour 9000 are awfully smoooooth!)... the balls are constantly rolling through the grease. The cup & cone bearing always rolls easier after the first revolution pushes out most of the grease.
#7
Ferrous wheel
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 1,388
Bikes: 2004 Gunnar Rock Hound MTB; 1988 Gitane Team Pro road bike; 1986-ish Raleigh USA Grand Prix; mid-'80s Univega Gran Tourismo with Xtracycle Free Radical
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
[QUOTE=operator]More like every couple months, unless you really hate your hubs or don't ride much.QUOTE]
Or if you have a house full of bikes you divide your time on.
Or if you have a house full of bikes you divide your time on.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2025 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,095 Times
in
741 Posts
Originally Posted by operator
More like every couple months, unless you really hate your hubs or don't ride much.
I've had similar longevity from both 105 and Ultegra hubs in the past so it's not just Dura Ace that tolerates this maintenance schedule.
Use good grease and lots of it. The excess grease doesn't contribute to the lubrication but does act as a seal to keep the hubs clean inside. Plan on wiping the excess off the hubs after the first couple of rides.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: seattle
Posts: 142
Bikes: several!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by HillRider
I put 6000 - 7000 miles a year on my primary bike in all kinds of weather and repack the hubs (Dura Ace) once a year. They have 40,000 miles on them at this point and the cones and races are still in perfect condition.
I've had similar longevity from both 105 and Ultegra hubs in the past so it's not just Dura Ace that tolerates this maintenance schedule.
Use good grease and lots of it. The excess grease doesn't contribute to the lubrication but does act as a seal to keep the hubs clean inside. Plan on wiping the excess off the hubs after the first couple of rides.
I've had similar longevity from both 105 and Ultegra hubs in the past so it's not just Dura Ace that tolerates this maintenance schedule.
Use good grease and lots of it. The excess grease doesn't contribute to the lubrication but does act as a seal to keep the hubs clean inside. Plan on wiping the excess off the hubs after the first couple of rides.