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  1. #1
    Senior_Member2 diff_lock2's Avatar
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    V-Brake POWA!!! modulators??

    i got some power modulators in stead of that norm metal thing (name please?)


    see the bulge? norm maly its like


    so is this realy craping out my stoping power/locking front wheel power? i can stop pretty good... but i dont feel the locking of other v brake bikes i try out...?

  2. #2
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    It sounds like you need to start by getting at least the rear wheel trued. If it is wobbling so much that the brakes have to be spread that far, it REALLY needs some attention with a spoke wrench.

    The curved metal thing is called a noodle. If power modulators are a little pulley device to pull more cable, you might not want them, as it will let the brake move farther, but you will have to pull harder.

    God bless!
    Wayne J.

  3. #3
    hello roadfix's Avatar
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    Replacing thicker cone spacers with thinner ones will move the arms in closer. But get your wheel trued first.
    .cinelli.olympic.surly.long.haul.trucker.kona.ku.surly.steamroller.
    .litespeed.classic.litespeed.firenze.bianchi.pista.dean.colonel.plus.more.

  4. #4
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    a) Fix the wheel

    b) Have crappy braking

    Take you Pick

  5. #5
    Senior_Member2 diff_lock2's Avatar
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    lol im trying to get a new wheel... its 35eu and i think its worth... NOW for "power modulators" its that thing at the noodle (thanks for the name. nemonis) like were the cable comes in...
    LINK i found so now i need new noodles what do you think?

    POWA!!
    MORE POWA (or less IMO)

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    You probably don't even need a new wheel. If you know a decent bike shop you can take the wheel to them and have them true it. It simply means adjusting spoke tension so the wheel is nice and round again.

    The 'power modulators' you linked to would actually make your braking worse under the present conditions. What those do is use a spring in them to give you more brake lever 'feel'. This means that it would be more difficult to lock up the wheel, but would require more cable pull, not less. I personally wouldn't recommend them unless it feels like the brake levers don't move far enough before they hit the rim. If they move too far already, it would only make things worse.

    God bless!
    Wayne J.

  7. #7
    Death fork? Naaaah!! top506's Avatar
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    As the others have stated, first get the wheel trued/replaced.
    If you WANT to lock up the wheels, replace the modulators with plain noodles. That will give you the max effect on the wheel for the force on the brake lever.
    Top
    (who's first panic stop on a V-brake equipted bike was a GREAT big f**king susprise!)

  8. #8
    Senior_Member2 diff_lock2's Avatar
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    Good im getting noodles (plain) ASAP...
    How much is a wheel "tureing"

    AND DONT START WITH PANIC STOPS! thats the reson i started this thread... i always knew there was somthing mushy about my brakes, they slowed me down real good but they didnt lock the front wheel as others did... so i blamed the power mods and i was right aperantly... ok back to PANIC STOPS! i was going maybe 30-40kmph downhill and i knew theres a crosing at the end.. i saw it turn red and i was sure i could make it... thats right i was SURE... lol from 40 to 0 in 5 meters and a stopie all the way lol i was LIKE MOTHER and acted like nothing hapened... i do stopies as much as posible... so i wast scared just the ******** trafic! well ill get a pic of the skid mark lol and how close its to the street before the intersection...
    i slamed the front to the max ( lever to bar) and i wasnt sloing down fast nuff so i hit the rear brake like less than a sec later... and i got the skid/stpoie cause i tried to put more weight on the front... and ended up a foot away from the street... well thats my story...

    and yeah wheel truing or new wheel prices.... and NEW NOODLES how much?

    thanks

  9. #9
    Death fork? Naaaah!! top506's Avatar
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    At my LBS noodles are 4-6 USD, a wheel truing 15-30.
    Top

  10. #10
    Senior_Member2 diff_lock2's Avatar
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    well i can get a new wheel for 35...eu.. and this ones over 10 years probably... so i geuss its worth...

    and noodles.. sounds ok ill look for 2 for ~10eu
    EDIT: thanks

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    Spoke wrench for <$5, read sheldon brown website and true the wheel yourself.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    If your rear wheel has that much wobble you almost surely have a bent rim and need to replace it.

    You can screw around with some half way measures but, until you solve your bent rim issue, you are just going to go from one problem to another.

  13. #13
    Senior_Member2 diff_lock2's Avatar
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    If your rear wheel has that much wobble you almost surely have a bent rim and need to replace it.

    You can screw around with some half way measures but, until you solve your bent rim issue, you are just going to go from one problem to another.
    Thats why im getting a new wheel...

    And i got a plain noodle up front, WAY better... its amazing! now i need some serios pads... but ill find some later... btw any brake cable guides... i did it my self but i think i missing these little metal ends down at the brake side of the cable... but hey it works great...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by diff_lock2
    Thats why im getting a new wheel...

    And i got a plain noodle up front, WAY better... its amazing! now i need some serios pads... but ill find some later... btw any brake cable guides... i did it my self but i think i missing these little metal ends down at the brake side of the cable... but hey it works great...
    I can think of two different type of 'little metal ends':

    A ferrule is a little metal cap with a hole in the center that is slid over the end of the cable housing.
    An end cap is an even smaller cap that is crimped onto the end of the inner cable to keep it from fraying.

    You should be able to get either one from a bike shop for either free or cheap.

    God bless!
    Wayne J.

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