Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-21-06, 11:45 PM   #1
silversmith
Yet another vegan biker
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Trapped behind the corn curtain
Bikes: Sakae Prism, Vintage Fuji bike(S), too many bikes, one from scratch bike.
Posts: 965
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Paint removal

I saw a can of spray on paint stripper in the automotive department at Walmart. The stripper caught my eye (wink) because I've got a lugged steel frame that'd been poorly rattle-canned before I purchased it.

Has anyone had any experience with chemical paint removers?

I know its often better to leave paint on. But this chpped and uneven mess looks like crap.

The frame is nicely built and the fork appears to be all chromed under the paint. I'm also hopelessly out of control and searching wildly for yet another cycling project...
silversmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-06, 03:15 AM   #2
古強者死神
Team Katana
 
古強者死神's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tampa, Fl
Bikes: None /cry
Posts: 426
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Hmm I would be skeptical paint varies so much in type and condition I dont know how well a remover would work, unless it was incredibly volitile.

A good wet sanding would be what I do, or maybe paint over it with use of a primer and a rough sanding to get rid of those chips you talked about.

If its cheap tho, wont hurt to buy it and try it and out let us know first hand how well it worked for you.

I used "rattle can" paint all the time on my 92 Camaro RS because it was so low to the groud it scraped the paint off the ground effects somtimes I think it was Duplicolor I used and it was just as nice as the factory paint.
古強者死神 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-06, 04:02 AM   #3
Retro Grouch 
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Rans Rockst (Retro rocket) Rans Enduro Sport (Retro racket) Catrike 559, Merin Bear Valley (beater bike).
Posts: 26,614
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 88 Post(s)
I just finished a repaint job that started by using a brush-on paint remover. It's a kind of messy process and it's a bit time consuming but, if you are planning to do everything yourself, that's what I recommend.

I don't know where you got the idea that it might be better to leave the old paint on. If you want a nice even finish, you simply have to start with a nice even surface. Your finished result can never be any better than your surface preperation.
Retro Grouch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-06, 04:29 AM   #4
bellweatherman
Senior Member
 
bellweatherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Austin
Bikes: Too many to count
Posts: 2,103
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Dude. A paint stripper will save you sooooo much time if you don't have a sandblasting set-up. Use the paint-stripper, leave overnight, scrape some off. Repeat the next night. Should get most of it off. The little that is remaining, just sand it off. Can you imagine sanding the whole frame off without any paint stripper?! DUDE! You'd be there forever!

It is messy. Just remember to lather that stripper on THICK! It works way way way better that way.
bellweatherman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-06, 05:42 AM   #5
yes
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 675
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
^ I sanded a whole frame the other day. It took a couple of hours, mostly, b/c I got some cheap sandpaper to start. The 3M 320 grit paper worked faster and obviously left a better surface than the cheap 220 grit. The 3M paper also lasted longer. I'd get 3 sheets of 3M 220 and 3 sheets of 3M 320 (it's labled for between coats). It shouldn't take too long. I also got a respirator, on the off chance that the paint had lead in it, and just to save my lungs. The corners are the hardest part, but they are probably hard w/ stripper too.
But, it seems like you are trying to leave the chrome. I saw some sites about that. Google bike restoration, and you will likely find some tips about that. The rattle can paint should come off easier than the original, so the right strength stripper may be able to uncover the original paint.
yes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-06, 05:45 AM   #6
enzed
Senior Member
 
enzed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Bikes:
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Reading these messages has answered a few questions for me.
I've just got my hands on a 3-speed steel folder. I've cleaned & relubed the chain, polished the chrome & applied some lube where needed. I'm going to replace the saddle & seatpost with a new quick-release one. The paintjob is alright, but would look better if repainted.
So I'll need some paint-stripper & then need to sand the rest of the paint off. What's the best sort of paint-stripper & paint to use. What's the best way to do it?
Keeping in mind, this is my first time doing this sort of thing.
enzed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-06, 06:53 AM   #7
silversmith
Yet another vegan biker
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Trapped behind the corn curtain
Bikes: Sakae Prism, Vintage Fuji bike(S), too many bikes, one from scratch bike.
Posts: 965
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Reading these messages has answered a few questions for me.
Me too. Thanks.

I was leery about the sandpaper because of the chrome fork.

I'm giving it a go. I'll post results, with pics, in a couple of days.
silversmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-06, 07:31 AM   #8
San Rensho 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 5,547
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
If the frame has any rust, you should go for bead blasting. I have a frame that I rattle canned twice after stripping with paint stripper and thoroughly going over the rusted parts with sandpaper and the rust still came through after a few months.

Before the last rattle can I had it bead blasted and so far no rust after over a year.
__________________
Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace

1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
1988 Ducati 750 F1
San Rensho is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:38 AM.