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  1. #1
    Senior Member Drunken Chicken's Avatar
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    Front hub (Shimano Deore) & Avid Juicy 5

    Hi all, after changing the drivetrain & wheelset on my bike I proceeded to install my new disk brakes (Avid Juicy 5s, 160mm rotors F&R). The rear one is adjusted perfectly, doesn't rub at all. The front one rubs because I think the pads didn't fully retract. I've tried putting loads of sheets of paper where the rotor goes to try and separate them further but to no avail so that's my first problem.
    The second problem is the problem I realised shortly after mounting my front brake: if I lock the front wheel I can rock the bike forwards REALLY far, I'm talking about 1 or 2 cm not just the typical fork play or whatever. I'm pretty much stumped on what to do as I have no idea on this topic of hubs. Is it something to do with tightening the cones or whatever they're called? Broken axle? Bear in mind it's a brand new wheelset, has literally only 5km on it.
    Finally, would having touched the rotor a fair amount during installation & the like contaminate the pads easily? Should I sand them off slightly just in case? How can I remove the pads from the brakes? (the Avid website didn't help)

    Thanks in advance,
    -DC
    2005 Ironhorse 7.3
    2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport

  2. #2
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    hey,

    no one has responded so i'll take a stab.

    I just bought some j 5's too and they are on deore hubs also.

    Mine are working perfectly, although I had a harder time setting up the fronts so they didn't rub.

    One thing you might try is take out the wheel, reseat it, then readjust the caliper. I had to do that for my rear as I accidentally didn't have the wheel seated properly and was getting alot of rubbing.

    As to touching the rotor, yes, it's not good. Fingerprints have alot of oil and the pads will spread it around. Definitely use rub. alchohol to clean them and you will need to clean your pads too, possibly by sanding. I installed mine wearing latex gloves b/c I have huge unweildy paws that muck up everything

    As for the last prob, about movement, i'm not too sure exactly what you mean. Is the wheel locked the entire time? Or when you try to lock it up the wheel slips?

    Anyway, once you get 'em setup you will love them, mine feel so good

  3. #3
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    if your experiencing that much play, and your SURE its not the headset or forks (how old are the forks ? what brand and model are they ?) the only other things it can be are;

    A. the disk rotor bolts are not fully tightend.

    B. the spoke tension in the wheel is dangerously low.

    C. the caliper mounting bolts are loose.

    the only other outside shot i can think of (being a pround juicy owner myself) is, that the pads are moving inside the caliper, mine have done this ever since i managed to lose the retaining clips for the pads (the silver hand spring clips that are located on the back of the caliper) basically if im only lightly pulling the lever, the pads will slide back and forth about 1/2mm, check for this by seeing if you still get the 2cm of play when your pulling the brake hard.

    as for contamination, avoid touching your rotors with bare hands, a quick polish with meths or alcohol will do nicly, a gentle sanding of the pads too, be sure to rinse everything off with water before riding.

    to remove the pads, remove the wheel, unclip the retainer spring on the back of the caliper, and then simply pull them one at a time out the bottom using the tabs that poke out, needle nose pliers are handy - make sure that you also remove the tension spring that pushes the pads apart, and take your time putting everything back in if its the 1st time youve done it! do one brake 1st, so if you have problems, you still have a fully assembled brake to use as a reference!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Drunken Chicken's Avatar
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    First of all thanks for the help!
    PCS2: Well I just found that one of the pads is 2 mm more inwards than it should be and the piston doesn't seem to want to retract. I'll try the wheel seating method, thanks, although I'm now fairly sure it's the above problem. ^
    I'll see if I can get the pads out to sand them. Is using 96 degree alcohol an OK substitute to rubbing alcohol when cleaning the rotors?
    When I talk about the play it's when I fully lock the wheel, the rotor isn't moving, it's something else and it's starting to worry me a lot.
    The Great Stonk: The fork is an RST Gila T5 (2005) 100mm travel, yes, very crappy but seems to not want to die. The fork has a fair amount of play in it but the amount of play I'm experiencing (if it was in the fork) would make the fork not safe at all to ride. I just tightened the headset today, I'll see if it helps solve the problem.
    The rotor bolts are fully tightened and in place.
    I'll have to check the spoke tension though, haven't thought about that much. What would you classify as dangerously low?
    The CPS bolts are snug when I set it up, I doubt they're the culprits.
    I still get 2cm of play even when I'm pulling really really hard on the brakes so again, I don't think it's that.
    I'll try and get the pads off without screwing the system up and sand them a bit.

    I really appreciate the help, thanks a bunch!
    -DC
    2005 Ironhorse 7.3
    2005 Specialized Hardrock Sport

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