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  1. #1
    Senior Member broomhandle's Avatar
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    5 speed shifters that should be 6 speed

    i have an 88 trek 1000 that is suppoed to be a 12 speed. has all the original eqipment. i just rebuilt it, and i only get 5 clicks... any ideas?

  2. #2
    Southern Gentleman sabaka's Avatar
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    You will only get 5 clicks...think about it.

    You start off in the big cog, and upshift. 5 shifts (or clicks) later, you are in the small cog.

  3. #3
    Senior Member broomhandle's Avatar
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    5 clicks total. its a 10 speed. bare there is only 5 (slots) not 6.

  4. #4
    Klaatu barada nikto cascade168's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broomhandlde
    i have an 88 trek 1000 that is suppoed to be a 12 speed. has all the original eqipment. i just rebuilt it, and i only get 5 clicks... any ideas?
    If you fiddled with the RD limit screws when you did your rebuild, you may have eliminated the lowest gear. Which of the six cogs can't you get to? I'm going to guess it's the low gear (largest cog).

    I say this as it's a standard trick to use 8 speed barcons with a 7 speed cogset. If your limit settings are correct, then you can't get to the lowest click with the barcons. The limit screw prevents you from pulling any more cable (and pulling the chain into the spokes) and, thus, prevents that last "click" that you are looking for.
    "Work is the curse of the drinking class."
    - Oscar Wilde

  5. #5
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Are these downtube-mounted Shimano shifters?

  6. #6
    Senior Member broomhandle's Avatar
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    thats what i thoguht but i dont know how to adjust them, i got this bike out of the trash, somebody jacked with it before i got it. it dosent go to the high cog i belive, the small one, ill have to double check. and how do i adjust that?

    anybody else have a 88 trek 1000? haha im pretty sure its supposed to be a 12 speed.

  7. #7
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Are they downtube-mounted Shimano shifters?

  8. #8
    Senior Member broomhandle's Avatar
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    downtube.

  9. #9
    Klaatu barada nikto cascade168's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broomhandlde
    thats what i thoguht but i dont know how to adjust them, i got this bike out of the trash, somebody jacked with it before i got it. it dosent go to the high cog i belive, the small one, ill have to double check. and how do i adjust that?

    anybody else have a 88 trek 1000? haha im pretty sure its supposed to be a 12 speed.
    Here's my boilerplate posting for rear derailleur adjustment:

    Disconnect the shift cable from the RD. Eyeball the alignment (from behind the bike) of the high gear (smallest cog) and the jockey wheel. Adjust the "H" limit screw if they are not lined up. Now, simultaneously turn the crank arm with your right hand and, with your left hand, manually push the RD so that the chain climbs up a cog or two. Release the RD and the chain should jump back down to the high gear smoothly. If it's not smooth, or jumps off the cog towards the dropout, then your limit is not set correctly. Adjust as necessary. Now adjust the low ("L") limit. With the cable still unattached, crank the drivetrain and manually push the RD in as far as it will go. It should move the chain up to the biggest cog (= low gear) and no further. If the chain goes past the big cog and jumps off the cassette towards the spokes, then your "L" limit screw is too far out. Adjust the "L" limit screw until the chain moves onto the low gear, but not beyond it. As with the "H" limit, when you have the "L" limit set correctly you should be able to eyeball it from directly behind the bike - while still pushing the RD all the way in - and see that the biggest cog and the jockey wheel are lined up exactly. Once you get the limit screws set correctly, re-attach the cable (make sure the barcon is set for the highest gear - if it's on the end of drop bars then the lever should be pointing straight down, or close to it). For a downtube lever, it should be pushed all the way forward. Before you tighten the holding bolt for the cable, turn the barrel adjuster on the RD in all the way. This would be full clockwise if you are looking at it from the back of the bike. This way, once you lock down the cable you can increase tension on the cable by turning the barrel adjuster counterclockwise. If you have any other cable tension adjusters, such a downtube barrel adjuster, adjust it to minimum (just like you did to the one on the RD) for the same reason. Now, pull the slack out of the cable with a pair of pliers or a cable stretcher (i.e. "4th hand") if you have one and tighten the locking bolt. It does not have to be very tight. Just get the slack out. You use the barrel adjuster to tighten it the rest of the way and get the correct tension for indexed shifting (if you have that). Crank the drivetrain and shift the barcon to the next gear (which should be "6th" in a 7spd system, "5th" in a 6spd system, and so on). The chain should move up to the next cog. If it does not, turn the barrel adjuster to increase the tension in the cable. If you have to turn the barrel adjuster much more than a full turn, then you did not pull enough slack out of the cable before you locked it down. Go back and fix this or your barrel adjusters may not be able to gain enough cable tension on their own. Keep shifting back and forth between 7th and 6th gears (for a 7spd system) and adjust the cable tension until you get a good and consistent shift between the two. Often once you get these two set properly the rest of the shifts will index properly. If there is some problem in any of the other gears indexing then carefully add more cable tension in small increments (i.e. a quarter turn at a time). Just a little fine adjustment should do the trick.

    If you don't see what you need in my proceedure, you can use the one at Park Tool:

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64

    Since you are not getting to the small cog, there is (likely) one of three problems - either the "H" limit is not correct (and, remember, you must disconnect the cable to do this adjustment correctly), or, the derailleur hanger is bent, or, the derailler cage itself is bent. The cage that holds the tension pulley and the guide pulley (see the diagrams on the Park site) should be hanging straight down (when viewed from behind the bike). If they are angled in towards the spokes then either the derailleur hanger or the derailleur cage itself is bent. There are fancy (i.e. correct) ways to fix this alignment, but, since you got your bike out of the trash you don't have a lot to use by using the "armstrong" method of realignment. Basically, you just get to the side of the bike. Grab the dropout where the derailleur attaches with your right hand and the bottom of the derailleur cage with your right hand and pull (judiciously !!!) out until the cage is bent back and hanging straight. If you do any "armstrong" type bending of the derailleur then you need to follow that up with a correct RD alignment, as described above. Good luck!
    "Work is the curse of the drinking class."
    - Oscar Wilde

  10. #10
    Senior Member broomhandle's Avatar
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    the rear derailer is adjusted. it can go further. and yes, its the high gear. but there are not enough clicks to get it to that 6th gear.

  11. #11
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broomhandlde
    downtube.
    Ok, work with me here, are they Shimano?

  12. #12
    Senior Member broomhandle's Avatar
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    haha, they are Light Action Shimano.

  13. #13
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broomhandlde
    haha, they are Light Action Shimano.
    Ok, open the attached photo. It shows the washer that sits between the shift lever and the frame or clamp-band. See I'm pointing at the bulge with a pen? That should be towards the bike's head tube like shown in that photo. If it's 180 off, then turn it around, put your shifter onto it and spin the shifter 180 until it's in the normal position too, and see if you got six detents now.

    Any good?


  14. #14
    Senior Member broomhandle's Avatar
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    cool, i knew it had to be something simple like that, ill try that out.

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    Sobaka is correct. You always get on less click than there are gears. First click is 1-2, second click is 2-3, third click is 3-4, forth click is 4-5, and fifth click is 5-6. Thats all there is folks. Roger

  16. #16
    Senior Member broomhandle's Avatar
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    yeah, thast a givin. i was refering to the 1st slot a click. and your a little late...

  17. #17
    fmw
    fmw is offline
    Hoosier Pedaler fmw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cascade168
    If you fiddled with the RD limit screws when you did your rebuild, you may have eliminated the lowest gear. Which of the six cogs can't you get to? I'm going to guess it's the low gear (largest cog).

    I say this as it's a standard trick to use 8 speed barcons with a 7 speed cogset. If your limit settings are correct, then you can't get to the lowest click with the barcons. The limit screw prevents you from pulling any more cable (and pulling the chain into the spokes) and, thus, prevents that last "click" that you are looking for.
    No, all indexed shifters have one less click than the number of cogs on the cassette.

  18. #18
    Senior Member broomhandle's Avatar
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    mechBgon you rock!!! that worked. i got this bike out of the trash, it had mountain bike parts and everything, so who knows... haha. but now its all back and functioning. thanx!!!!

  19. #19
    The Legitimiser Sammyboy's Avatar
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    And he only had to ask you three times to get the necessary info to help you

  20. #20
    Senior Member broomhandle's Avatar
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    up yours sammy.

  21. #21
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broomhandlde
    mechBgon you rock!!! that worked. i got this bike out of the trash, it had mountain bike parts and everything, so who knows... haha. but now its all back and functioning. thanx!!!!
    sweet, enjoy your new ride

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