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  1. #1
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    Repacking rear hubs

    Hey Kids,
    The rear wheel on my Schwinn World Sport is of the wobbly nature. I thought I could just let this go, but it is raising major hell in terms of brake and frame rubbing. I would give it a 6 out of 10 on the wobbly scale.

    A couple things first, the rim itself is true. I was actually amazed to see how true it actully is. I can witness the wobble at the hub as I apply lateral pressure while on the rim.

    Could somebody please provide advice on repacking the hub bearings. I assume this would alleviate my problems. Also, are any special tools required?

    Thanks!
    j

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    If you grabbed the tim and pushed it from one dropout to the other, does it have play? In that case you ought to look into just adjusting the cones/locknuts. If it doesn't shake around the axle aimlessly, you need to true the spokes.

    edit: I reread. Looks like you have play. You need a wrench for the cones and a typical adjustable wrench. Won't set you back too much cash. It's pretty simple: tighten the cones with the special wrench until there is no play. If the bearings won't roll smooth or the entire setup is too tighten, loosen a bit. A teeny bit of play is acceptable.
    De and regreasing/lubing the hubs is also a good option. Just because it never hurts and always helps.

    chekc out Park Tool's website. It'll give you more info. I can't think straight right now but I'm under the assumption you need a chainwhip too; especially if you want to repack those hubs.

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    Senior Member thomson's Avatar
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    It may be that your cone nuts are loose. Here is your reference
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=105

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    From what you say it sounds like the cone nuts are the culprit for certain. Just when you think you have rebuilt a vintage bike to standard some little thing comes and bites you. Thanks for the help.
    j

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    You dont need a chain whip because you can undo the cone and locknut on the non drive side and pull the axle out the other side ( taking care not to lose any of the little balls.

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    chain whips, cone nuts, little balls

    How long do we have to wait for the bad jokes?

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    lunatic fringe Dogbait's Avatar
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    You will also want to make sure the axle is not bent.

    Dogbait

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    Death fork? Naaaah!! top506's Avatar
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    Most of us have already heard them....or told them
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewP
    You dont need a chain whip because you can undo the cone and locknut on the non drive side and pull the axle out the other side ( taking care not to lose any of the little balls.
    okay but if they wanted to overhaul the hub and clean up the bearings, they would.

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    to lube

    Can I use normal Auto Zone bearing grease to pack the bearings? Or is that stuff way too heavy?
    j

  11. #11
    You know you want to. Eatadonut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evictionsurplus
    Can I use normal Auto Zone bearing grease to pack the bearings? Or is that stuff way too heavy?
    j
    what TYPE of bearing grease is that - chances are, it'll do just fine. I use boat bearing grease on all my hubs.
    Weather today: Hot. Humid. Potholes.

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    Learning to rebuild your hubs is a good idea, it's pretty simple. If your hub is as loose as you say, you will probably want to replace the bearings. Don't worry, new ball bearings are cheap. Examine the cones closely. There should be a thin, shiny line where the bearings contact the cone. This should be of uniform width and free from pits, notches, etc.
    If it is, new bearings and some grease will be your only expense. Remember to leave one side (usually the drive side) with the cones, locknuts, etc. in place so your axle will stay in alignment.

    I find that that a good tweezers is the the easiest thing to use to remove the old bearings and to put the new ones in. Don't get all crazy with grease; enough to hold the bearings in place is plenty.

    Adjusting the cones against the bearings is as much art as science; you want a freely rotating axle which has almost no play. The usual method is to leave just the tiniest bit of play, and this will be taken up when you tighten down the quick-release.

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    Senior Member BrokenGlass's Avatar
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    I realize that this post is a little late, but is there a specific time that hub's should be repacked/rebuilt? I do not notice any play from the hub and the wheel is true, but there are quite a few miles on the bike and the hubs have never been serviced. Is this one of those things where if its not broke dont fix it, or should they be repacked after x-amount of miles?

  14. #14
    You know you want to. Eatadonut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrokenGlass
    I realize that this post is a little late, but is there a specific time that hub's should be repacked/rebuilt? I do not notice any play from the hub and the wheel is true, but there are quite a few miles on the bike and the hubs have never been serviced. Is this one of those things where if its not broke dont fix it, or should they be repacked after x-amount of miles?
    I usually repack mine between 6 and 8 PM. Generally twice a year. Sometimes more, sometimes less - depending on the hub and the way it's used.

    If it's grinding, then of course it's time, but I never let it get that far. Maybe it's overkill, but grease is cheap and it doesn't take long.
    Weather today: Hot. Humid. Potholes.

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