Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-12-06, 04:03 PM   #1
DocRay
Guest
 
Bikes:
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
FSA crank bolts

FSA can be really frustrating sometimes. My SLK carbon crank comes with alloy bolts. FSA manual strictly says that steel bolts must be used to torque specs, then the alloy bolts can be used (the ally bolt will likely strip). Of course, they do not provide steel bolts. God forbid on a $400 crank they provide a $0.12 bolt.

They say talk to your FSA dealer-no one sells these.

Then you go to the FSA website- they want $7 for the bolt, and $7 for shipping ($14 for one bolt).


Anyone know where to buy FSA M15 steel bolts??
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-06, 10:45 AM   #2
DocRay
Guest
 
Bikes:
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
Well, FSA answered my email in about 5 hours.

Turns out ay ISIS M15 bolt can be used, even shimano.
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-06, 07:12 AM   #3
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,847
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
I'm late to this posting but have a suggestion. Install the steel bolts and leave them there. The alloy bolts are too fragile to trust and the trivial weight saving isn't worth it.

A friend had the exact same situation. He installed the FSA crank with steel bolts, replaced them with alloy as FSA recommended and had the alloy fail. He now has the steel bolts permanantly in place and no further problems.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-06, 08:50 AM   #4
sch
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Mountain Brook. AL
Bikes:
Posts: 3,005
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
I agree strongly with the suggestion to not use the alloy bolts, it won't do you any catastropic damage if the L crank comes off but you will find a one legged ride home a novelty you won't want to repeat, and if the R crank comes off you are dead in the water. When I changed to an FSA Gossamer compact I somehow lost the L crank bolt about 8 miles into a 60 miler, still haven't figured out how I could not notice the bolt backing out and was relieved to find when I got home that the cranks and the BB each came with bolts, so I had 4 of them. Now I torque the bolts periodically. Shimano bolts can be used in a pinch.
sch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-06, 06:12 PM   #5
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,847
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 66 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sch
Now I torque the bolts periodically. Shimano bolts can be used in a pinch.
I expect you have never torqued the bolts to the proper spec initially or the wouldn't have loosened. The torque spec is MUCH tighter than you would imagine and a regular 8 mm hex wrench won't come close to the required degree of tightness unless you are Superman. If you install them using a torque wrench you will be astounded how tight you have to make them to meet the spec.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-06, 08:14 PM   #6
sch
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Mountain Brook. AL
Bikes:
Posts: 3,005
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Good point and on the nose Hillrider. I do use a 3/8 to 8mm sqare drive as I learned a long time ago that standard allen wrenches were completely inadequate. I really must get a 3/8M to 1/2F adapter so I can use my 1/2" socket torque wrench. I checked the FSA a little earlier today before joining the evening ride and d---n if the L crank didn't need 1.5 turns to tighten it up.
Steve
sch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-06, 01:42 AM   #7
Rman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Bikes:
Posts: 176
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I also have an FSA crank and it only came with the alloy M15 bolt. Does anyone know where one can get a high quality chromoly bolt that cheap? I think I need to re-tighten my crank arms. Wnen I pedal moderately hard it appears the chainrings are wobbly and quite a bit of rubbing with the front derailler.
Rman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:08 AM.