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Thread: Wheel question

  1. #1
    Canadian eh?
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    Wheel question

    On my Concorde I have ambrosio elite rims (with durex) laced with some kind of spokes (probably generic steel) to 1986 Shimano 600 Hubs (bearing sealed).

    The rims and were made in the mid-late 80s but were mint when I got them to make my bike. The rims are double wall. There is no damage to the rims except for a tiny scratch that got there when a piece of metal or something got caught in my brake pads. There are no flat spots or cracks or dents in the rim.

    My problem is as soon as I true the wheels, they go out of true after a ride. This is significant enough that I have to use the little break release switch (Ultegra) to space the pads out more. I figured I had just forgotten how to true wheels so I took it to an LBS that is reputable in the city and they trued the wheels. Same thing, after the first ride the wheel was significantly out of wack.

    I am wondering if this is do to some kind of damage in the rim or if its the fact that I have used cheap spokes and they stretched out already. If its the rim, what should I look for when looking for damage. If its the spokes, I guess I'll just re lace them with some DT spokes or Wheelsmith right? If I use DT, which model should I get. This is my training bike, not my racing bike.

    Oh, by the way, I don't use this bike like my mountain bike so its not from me bouncing on it.

    Thank You

  2. #2
    NOT a weight weenie Hunter's Avatar
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    Sounds like they are "springing" or "popping" back into place. A wheel can only be manipulated so much until it finally starts "popping" back into place. I had a wheel (Mavic 217 laced to a 1st gen. Nuke Proof hub) that had over 5000 miles out on it in 4 years. It finally could not be trued up anymore and the spokes started pulling out and the wheel was "popping" back into place. A rim swap may be in order.

  3. #3
    Breaker of Spokes P. B. Walker's Avatar
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    I'm just guessing, but I'd say it's the spokes. The rim sounds good. Spokes are cheap. I would re-do the wheel with DT spokes. I've heard double butted hold up the best since they allow some "give". I'd say 14/15/14 gauge double butted would do the best for you.


    When it becomes untrued... are any of the spokes loose? Next time it comes untrued, check that out. That could be the cause. The spokes get loose in the nipple, and once they are loose, then keep getting looser. This then puts less tension on the wheel and pretty soon it will be out of true.

    That is what happens to me.

    Good luck... I know all about wheel problems

    PBW

  4. #4
    Canadian eh?
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    P.B. is right I think. When the wheel comes out of true, the spokes are loose in the affected area. But this happens after about 100km on the bike. I know what I'm doing as I have built wheels that last many miles without needing to be touched.

  5. #5
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    Examine all the spoke holes in the rims; make sure no washers are pulling through and that there are no hairline cracks radiating out from the spoke holes. These cracks can be almost invisible on a bike stand. Are you breaking any spokes or hearing rhytmic creaking noises from the wheel while riding? If the rims are okay, you might try a spoke locking compound after truing your wheel.
    Iím not familiar precisely with exactly what I said, but I stand by what I said whatever it was.

  6. #6
    Canadian eh?
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    I know the wheel isn't at all creaking. As soon as my boss stops being sick and I can get in the store, I will rebuild my wheels with DT Spokes just for the sake of it and I will check the wheels while doing all of this.

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