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  1. #1
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    130mm Hub in 135mm Dropout

    I have a KHS CX100, which is a Chromoly cyclocross frame with 135mm rear dropouts, and I've got a 130mm rear wheel that I would sure like to run on it.

    Should I have the frame cold set to 130mm (or maybe 132.5mm)? What are the drawbacks of this? I have no intention of running a mountain hub on this bike, and it is currently running a road hub with spacers.

    Assuming I decide to use the wheel with spacers-
    I would need a longer axle, but the current axle is threadless and I'm wondering
    a) if there are any issues with putting spacers on such an axle, and
    b) could the replacement axle be threaded?

  2. #2
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    See if your hub manufacturer offers a 135mm axle. What kind of hub is it, anyway?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mechBgon
    See if your hub manufacturer offers a 135mm axle. What kind of hub is it, anyway?
    It's a Neuvation wheel (or rather one of the cheap Performance oem versions), and I don't know that the hubs are actually of a brand.

  4. #4
    Senior Member cazzooo's Avatar
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    I have a very similar issue and I am just squeezing the drop outs onto the 130mm hub. Is this dangerous?

  5. #5
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cazzooo
    I have a very similar issue and I am just squeezing the drop outs onto the 130mm hub. Is this dangerous?
    It might be bowing your axle a bit and not giving optimal "bite" on the dropouts.

    I have to question the avoidance of 135mm "mountain" hubs when you have a cyclocross or touring bike that's designed for them. They're not really much different.





    If I had a touring or cyclocross frame and wanted to use a pre-concocted wheelset, then I'd pick one that comes in 135mm spacing, if it were me. Sorry if that's not much help

  6. #6
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    It's much easier to find pre-built (read: cheap) wheels with 130mm hubs. I don't know that I've ever seen one with a 135mm hub. I think cross frames are more likely to have 130mm (or 132.5mm) spacing these days.

  7. #7
    MADE IN HONG KONG
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    would the construction of the hub allow you to drop a 2mm or 3mm axle spacer on each side? i.e. between the lock nuts? I've done this on other hubs but don't know if it would work with the one you have. Stuff to look for is 1. if there are 2 locking nuts on each side 2. if the axle is long enought after the spacers are added. A ood LBS should have the 2 or 3 mm spacers (by Wheels Manufacturing @$1)
    If you are not having any fun, it's all your fault

  8. #8
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    A 130 mm hub has an axle 141 mm long and sticks out 5.5 mm on each side of the locknuts. A 135 mm hub has an axle 147 mm wide and also sticks out the same 5.5 mm on each end. If you respace a 130 mm hub to 135 mm by adding 2.5 mm of spacers on each side you will still have 3mm of axle protrusion on each end and that is plenty to securely hold it in the rear dropouts.

    It might be a bit easier just to add 2.0 mm to each end since 1 mm spacers are common and 0.5 mm spacers aren't. The 134 mm OLD will work fine.

  9. #9
    Senior Member jeffreyahorn's Avatar
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    Did you end up using the spacers on the 130mm? What method did you use: (from Dannoxyz in older thread)

    "Simple way would be to throw some 2.5mm spacers on each side and it'll work. Won't be ideal because the cogs will be a little too far away from the dropout and you'll have to adjust the derailleur limit screws and cable-tension. You also don't get the advantage of less wheel-dish, which is why you want 135mm spacing anyway. Count on 30-minutes or so.

    Ideally, you'd throw a 5mm spacer on the left side only (move axle over to make room). This will preserve the derailleur alignment, so no adjustments necessary there. Then just re-dish the wheel over by 2.5m to recenter it. Loosen the drive-side spokes by about 1 full turn and tighten the left side by 1 full turn and that should do it. This will then give you the full advantage of going with 135mm spacing. Takes about 1-hour."

    I am asking, because I have a Salsa Las Cruces (135mm OLD) on the way and a pair of Velomax Sagitta (130mm with disc compatible hubs). Thanks...

    Jeffrey

  10. #10
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    The chainline issue shouldn't be much of a problem with only a 2mm difference. You are correct thet the best way to do it would be to add 5 mm to the non-drive side and redish the wheel but the OP didn't seem to have that level of expertese.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffreyahorn
    I am asking, because I have a Salsa Las Cruces (135mm OLD) on the way and a pair of Velomax Sagitta (130mm with disc compatible hubs). Thanks...

    Jeffrey
    Did you snag that $650 Las Cruces off ebay last night..?

  12. #12
    Senior Member jeffreyahorn's Avatar
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    That I did! The guy answered my questions and the frame alone seemed worth it. So much for building a redline conquest pro with discs from the redline conquest disc-r that I stripped.

    Jeffrey

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    Listen to me powers2b's Avatar
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    2 washers
    Quote Originally Posted by SBFixed View Post
    You're a dick, if your bike gets stolen I hope that you don't get a thread.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffreyahorn
    That I did! The guy answered my questions and the frame alone seemed worth it. So much for building a redline conquest pro with discs from the redline conquest disc-r that I stripped.

    Jeffrey
    You dog!

    I couldn't sleep last night, was browsing ebay, and I saw that deal. Love the looks of that frame... orange... drool. I wanted to go for it, but I restrained myself. No pics makes me nervous, but that was a real bargain!

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