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  1. #1
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    Wont Shift Onto Smallest Cog

    this is frustrating, I was on the trainer, and you know, just fine tuning the rear derailleur using the barrel adjuster on the downtube .(was this wrong to do?) and then noticed once I got the clanking stopped, I went through all the gears, everything is fine except when I get to the second to smallest cog, and go to shift to the smallest cog, it just doesnt go, I press the lever but it doesnt click, and doesnt move the chain, its like the feeling when you go to the smallest cog and press to go smaller and it moves the lever but nothing happens.

    how can I fix this! I have a race coming up and dont want to have to lug the bike to the shop... in the meantime Ill go try to fix it again until I get some replies.

    PLEASE HELP! thanks! Im used to riding track bikes so allthe fancy adjustments on my road bike are new to me.

    thanks!

  2. #2
    Tom (ex)Builder twahl's Avatar
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    Is it stopped on the limit screw? You don't say what deraileur so it's hard to be specific here, but you should be able to find the little tab where the tip of the screw marked "H" is. If the tab is resting on the screw, turn it out until it will shift to the high gear.
    Tom

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  3. #3
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    The high limit screw is most likely the problem. Back it out a half turn at a time until the shifting is correct.

  4. #4
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    its the rear derailleur, shimano 105...I just went and messed around with the barrel adjusters, no cigar, now its skipping cogs...ugh, what did I get myself into!

  5. #5
    mousse de chocolat Moose's Avatar
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    You overtightened the cable with the barrell adjuster, do not touch the limit screw. Just loosen the cable back up with the shifter in the proper position for the smallest cog until the derailer drops down to the small cog. If the chain still seems to want to shift the the 2nd cog with the cable completely loose, then and only then do you try the limit screw.

  6. #6
    Tom (ex)Builder twahl's Avatar
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    I was just logging on to say the same thing basically. Not sure why I didn't connect the pieces earlier, but sounds like the barrel adjuster was fiddled with enough to basically move the shifting down a gear. Question is, does the shifter click down again past the second smallest gear or is it bottomed out? If it's bottomed out on the second smallest gear, then you've over tensioned it. If the set screw is bottomed out, then you need to back the set screw out.
    Tom

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  7. #7
    Senior Member Old Hammer Boy's Avatar
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    Try this as a starting point. 1. Shift to smallest cog on RD, making sure you have clicked the brifter all the way. 2. Loosen up the adjuster until there is a small amount of slack in the cable. Now, run her through the gears and see if you need to trim the adjuster. It's best to trim the adjuster while on the smallest cog. Some barrel-type adjusters won't adjust with pressure on the cable, so it's necessary to be on the smallest cog. Good luck and let us know the results.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Old Hammer Boy's Avatar
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    P.S. If you want to make sure you have the limit screws in the correct place, shift to smallest cog, check that it's in the correct place, now grab the RD cable, pull it totally tight and adjust the other screw to make sure it's traveling to the largest cog. Do this a number of times to confirm that you aren't under or over shifting.

  9. #9
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    You didn't say why you felt the need to re-adjust the derailleur, particularly when you indirectly admit you don't know what you're doing. You may not want to but I recommend taking the bike to your shop and having them walk you through the adjustment process. There's lots of potential problems - bent derailleur hanger, loose cassette lock-ring, dirty cable housing, damaged cable end cap(s), loose/overtightened cable, worn out cassette cogs / chain, etc. You'll notice I didn't mention messing with the set screws, so don't (If a bike's been shifting properly, but now it's not, the problem is "not" the set screws).

  10. #10
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    well the other day I was having a problem with the rear d. clicking as I pedaled, and before the club ride, someone showed me how to adjust it with the barrel adjuster on the downtube. It happend again on the trainer so I just tried to tune it up again, no luck. It is a brand new bike, probably only say, a month or 2 old, so the cables are probably just stretching...your right though, I do need a hands on tutorial on adjusting this.

  11. #11
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    You're off by one click. When the shifter is in the 1st-position, your derailleur is actually in the 2nd-position. You need to loosen the cable. Either or both of the barrel adjusters are tightened too much, or if there's insufficient adjustment to loosen it enough, you'll have to unclamp the cable and let out about 3-4mm.

  12. #12
    Isaias NoRacer's Avatar
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    If all else fails, use the Park Tools web site:

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64
    2009 mileage = 14,738 miles; 2010 mileage = 15,234 miles; 2011 mileage = 17,344 miles; 2012 mileage = 11,414 miles; 2013 = 12,169

  13. #13
    Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped. BarracksSi's Avatar
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    I'm losing my mind.

    Which direction does the FD inline barrel adjuster "loosen"? Please say something obvious like "turn it to the front" or whatever.

    The Park Tools website doesn't help, and I've been googling for about half an hour to try to find SOMEbody that says something that's helpful. I can't believe that, after looking through forty webpages, I'm still confused.

  14. #14
    * vpiuva's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BarracksSi View Post
    I'm losing my mind...Which direction does the FD inline barrel adjuster "loosen"? Please say something obvious like "turn it to the front" or whatever.
    .
    from the front of the bike straddling the wheel take your right hand and turn the barrel adjuster clockwise.

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