Proper way to remove pedals.
OK. I feel like the father who is lost on vacation with the family. I am tired of driving around in circles and ready to ask for directions. I swap pedals around fairly regularly, and even though i have a nice pedal wrench and consider myself to be fairly mechanically adept, I still end up damn near injuring myself every time i take pedals off.
Yes, I understand the thread directions perfectly. I just have a helluva time getting the pedal to break loose without pulling chest muscle or something else.
And you think you're alone in this
Don't tighten them so much. I have never had one fall off... just a little torque.
There's another thread with some info on this:
What tool to remove pedals?
I use the park tools pedal wrench... worth every penny I paid...
Like I said, i've got a good pedal wrench. It is a wrench force and probably every bit as good as the Park Tool. I think this wrench also allows you to tighten them too much. I will lighten up on the tightening from now on.
Originally Posted by grahny
Technique which works best for me (forget where I learned it - maybe Barnett's?):
- Align crank arms so that the arm with the pedal you're removing is horizontal & points toward the rear of the bike
- Apply pedal wrench [edit: extending forward, so wrench & opposite crank arm are side by side]
- Pull up on the wrench, push down on the opposite crank arm (which is extended toward the front of the bike)
That, and applying grease to the threads when installing pedals!
Last edited by jwa; 07-15-06 at 07:45 AM.
The thing that has ALWAYS worked for me is a rubber mallot. Put the wrench on the pedal and start wacking on the end of the wrench. Sometimes it'll take 15-20 tries but eventually it'll break free.
A hammer works even better if you're using a mechanics wrench and not a pedal wrench. Immobilizing the pedal while you're breaking it free would probably be better still, but that's a leap I haven't made yet.
Originally Posted by jordanb
Clean the threads on kthe pedal and in the crank. Coat the pedal threads with anti-sieze and install. Don't overtighten. bk
Find a strong tube about 2-3 feet long that will fit over the end of the tool, or wrench-on-tool, that you're using. Extending the length of the tool in this way increases the force you can apply rather dramatically. Which is why you're never going to use this technique to tighten the pedals . . . .
I avoid hand injury and strain by using my feet.
Put bike in lowest gear.
Put crank facing forward and up.
Fit wrench facing rearwards and up.
Apply both brakes.
Apply foot to wrench, gradually loading with your bodyweight.
Young and unconcerned
I swap my pedals very frequently (SPD to Clipped) as I'm a poor graduate student, so must race and commute on the same bike. I've never really had trouble with this; I just hand tighten the pedals, then give one good tug with the spanner. I've never had any come loose subsequently and never had any real trouble getting them off. I use one of these - nice, but probably over-priced: http://www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk/publi...5jd2u8h71se0f5
Why do you install them so tight? There is no reason to install them much beyond snug. That's all I do and I've never had a pedal loosen or damage the crank threads in 100,000+ miles. If you have to hammer the wrench or hurt your self removing them, you are WAY overdoing the tightness.