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  1. #1
    Senior Member divineAndbright's Avatar
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    wheels not perfectly round

    Was wondering if anyone can offer tips to correct a problem, I have a bicycle which the rims (steel) arent perfectly round, I dont mean the common side to side out of true kind. but in a perfect circle kinda way. If it was slight I wouldnt really mind so much, but its annoying riding a bike that kinda goes up and down up and down a little where its quite noticable, and annoying.

    I taped a screw to the chain stay, and another to the fork lined up with the edge of the rim and spun the wheel and I can find the area that is bent out of shape this way, but how on earth do I "bend it back"? Is it at all possible to "straighten out"?

  2. #2
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    The wheel is vertically out of true. Basically, it's fixed in the same way as horizontal truing. You have to tighten all the spokes in the part of the wheel that sticks out too far.

    Here's a very good article on BUILDING a wheel which also has a good section on truing wheels: http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

    By the way, steel rims are very heavy and also unsafe, because the braking surface drastically worsens in the rain. If you can afford it, it's probably a good time to upgrade those old wheels!
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  3. #3
    Non Tribuo Anus Rodentum and off to the next adventure (RIP) Stacey's Avatar
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    How far out of round is it?

  4. #4
    Senior Member divineAndbright's Avatar
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    moxfyre: awesome.. thanks a lot, that was the ticket.. I took quite a while, but I got it- well its still not completely perfect, but I dont feel the seat "humping" me anymore, so im happy.

    The wheels I rebuilt myself, and I never did that before. On my 60s ccm imperial mark IV, the original spokes were so rusted I couldnt even tighten or loosen them without them snapping off at the nipples, and then finally the rear hub crapped out on me, the axle was bent and after riding a long time on it it eventually stripped on the none-cog size, so it couldnt tighten down properly, it would just spin and spin, it still actually operated perfectly fine, but It would try to twist underload and I can hear my frame clonking from the vibrations.. so It was finally time to rebuild the wheels, since I did the back I figured I might as well do the front too. I put my favorite coaster brake type hub on it, the komet super which I think is the best coaster brake hub, its at least the best ive ever used. This also didnt cost me a thing as I got the spokes off bent rims from the pinnacle sports dumpster, so im happy haha.

    The rim size these old canadian bicycles use are obsolete now (if you're curious they are labelled 26 X 1 1/2, which is very much like schwinns middleweight bicycles, I can actually use shwinn tire treads on these rims), sure I can replace them with 26X1.75, but I dont like that size very much, they're a little smaller.

  5. #5
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by divineAndbright
    moxfyre: awesome.. thanks a lot, that was the ticket.. I took quite a while, but I got it- well its still not completely perfect, but I dont feel the seat "humping" me anymore, so im happy.
    Glad to have helped

    The wheels I rebuilt myself, and I never did that before. On my 60s ccm imperial mark IV, the original spokes were so rusted I couldnt even tighten or loosen them without them snapping off at the nipples, and then finally the rear hub crapped out on me, the axle was bent and after riding a long time on it it eventually stripped on the none-cog size, so it couldnt tighten down properly, it would just spin and spin, it still actually operated perfectly fine, but It would try to twist underload and I can hear my frame clonking from the vibrations.. so It was finally time to rebuild the wheels, since I did the back I figured I might as well do the front too. I put my favorite coaster brake type hub on it, the komet super which I think is the best coaster brake hub, its at least the best ive ever used. This also didnt cost me a thing as I got the spokes off bent rims from the pinnacle sports dumpster, so im happy haha.
    Wow, I would not have wanted to ride on a bike with rusting spokes... I would be wary of reusing spokes of unknown origin and quality, could lead to a lot of broken spokes down the road.

    The rim size these old canadian bicycles use are obsolete now (if you're curious they are labelled 26 X 1 1/2, which is very much like schwinns middleweight bicycles, I can actually use shwinn tire treads on these rims), sure I can replace them with 26X1.75, but I dont like that size very much, they're a little smaller.
    Sheldon Brown's tire sizing page has very complete information on those obscure tire sizes. If you keep your rims, just be aware of the terrible stopping power in wet conditions.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member divineAndbright's Avatar
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    Nah, coaster brakes work great in anything, even snow! Plus no cables to freeze up! But yeah, I know about steel and lever brakes when wet, I have a few 3 speeds too.

    I'd like to rebuild my '41 CCMs wheels now.. finding right length spokes will be trickier with that one though, runs 28" wheels.

  7. #7
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    1) Turn bike over
    2) Remove tire and tube.
    3) Mount wheel on forks
    4) clamp a ruler across the fork touching the rim. Spin the wheel. listen for rubbing against the ruler. look closely for drops away from the ruler.
    5) adjust the rim
    2000 Montague CX, I do not recommend it, but still ride it.
    Strida 3, I recommend it for rides < 10mi wo steep hills.
    2006 Rowbike 720 Sport, I recommend it as an exercise bike.
    1996 Birdy, Recommend.
    Wieleder CARiBIKE (folding), decent frame.

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