ricewin

I get a used Shimano Ironman Master today, Dave Scott version, my first bike. This bike feels really nice, and I'm quite excited about it . However, myself is brand new to bicycle sports/bussiness, and has no ideals about how to maintain it properly . My major purpose for this bike is distance (60~100 miles) cycling on road. I have some experience about auto maintenance, and gather a basic set of tools for my car. But to begin with this bike, I still need some guidance. So any of your help and suggestions for the following questions are appreciated.

First, are there torque specifications, like those for auto fasteners, for the nuts and screws on the bike? Usually, how tight should I set the fork, wheels, and other hex nuts?

Secondly, how can I check the tire pressure? The pressure gauge for the car can't fit into it. And I don't know what is the proper pressure these tires should be inflated to, either. There are some cracks on the tires, and I can't see any threads on them. Does that mean I should change them?

What about lubrication? I'll definitely keep the gears and chain clean and lub. What else needs lub? Is there recommended lubricant? Will engine oil do?

I may take this bike apart and reassemble it after I study through it. Any suggestions here? Anyway, I'm quite a beginner. So any information for bicycle mechanics/maintenance is welcome. Thank you very much.

froze

Whoa horsey! Why not get a book and have that answer all your questions, otherwise you would have pages and pages of material on this post! There are several like Lennard Zinn's book: "Zinn And The Art Of Road Bike Maintenance" which is more for the beginner to intermediate mechanic, or Barnetts for the advance mechanic; there is also a web site at Park Tools that you can click on for some basic repair questions.

bluehair

Park also has the "Big Blue Book" of bicycle maintanence. It's intermediate level and very good.

Bobby Lex

Clean the parts that get dirty.

Lube the parts that move.

Treat it kindly.

Bob

HillRider

All true but not very helpful to a new owner.

The Zinn book is very good but first browse Sheldon Brown's web site (www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/). He has excellent articles on almost every aspect of bicycle maintainance including fastener torque specs.

Replace those tires now. Cracks in the rubber indicate they are way past their prime.

Your tires/tubes probably have presta valves. You need a pump with a presta head or an adapter to allow use of a Schrader (automobile type) valve head. It's best to get a bicycle specific floor pump with a presta head and a built in gauge. BTW, the little nut at the end of the presta valve stem must be unscrewed to allow the tube to accept air, then tightened after the tire is up to pressure.

Do you have a local bike shop you trust? They could show you the fundamentals, particularly if you buy your tires, tubes, lubes and the necessary bike-specific tools from them.

geo8rge

The most important part of any bike is the brakes. You might have a LBS adjust them so you can see how they are supposed to feel.

Find out how the hubs and BB need to be maintained.

chain lube is a question of oil vs wax

Hobartlemagne 

A book would be highly recommended. You can always trust the advice of Sheldon Brown too.
There are lots of parts of a bike that require bike-specific tools that you'll have to buy if you
want to take it apart. Park tools are good, but not the cheapest. In some cases I just buy the
cheapest bike tool just to have one handy if im not using it much. I dont know of a pressure
gauge for bikes. Use a pump with built in gauge to check pressure. Parts loosening is less of an
issue on a bike compared to a car. It does happen, but nothing like constant vibration and torque
from hundreds of horsepower the way a car does. I typically tighten everything moderately tight.
I always take care not to overdo it- Nothing like hold-your-breath, veins-in-your-neck-popping-out type of muscle exertion. I use a spray lubricant from my LBS (local bike shop) called GT85. Its good for spraying
occasionally on moving parts. Never use WD40 on moving parts because it will get sticky.

This should be your bike bible: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/#articles

Read it all you can

HillRider

The exceptions are bottom bracket cups and crank fixing bolts. The torque specs for them are in the 300-450 inch-pound range and that is vein popping tight unless you have a LONG wrench. A torque wrench is very useful for these items the first times you work with them as you will not tighten them adequately with out one.

ricewin

Thank you guys for information. I'm getting the books. The online articles are very helpful, too.

However, the previous owner did spay WD40 as lubricant for the chain and gears. I didn't feel comfortable when I heard this. From my experience on cars, I know WD40 attracts lots of dirt for this open system. The chainwheel looks not clean. There are black oily dirt and grease on it. I'm going to clean it. Should a shining, mirror surface be achieved for the chainwheel?