I'm not sure how the brake attaches on front drums. On a mountain bike, nearly all modern forks are designed to be disc brake compatible, so they can handle the forces from drum brakes. Cyclocross forks too, if you're outfitting a road bike. So, if you can attach the brake arm to these forks, you should be good to go.
I would not retrofit a front drum brake to a standard road fork. Even a steel fork -- I'm not confident that the lower blades could handle the torque so close to the dropouts.
Hopefully Sheldon will spy this thread and respond with his wisdom
Norco Bushpilot (out of commission), Raleigh Delta
Originally Posted by meatwad
Say what? Do you have a masters degree in alchemistry?
So I'm bombing down a hill on my vintage monark with painted S-2s and want to scrub off some speed.
Whats going to happen now?
You don't need a master's degree, shiny surfaces like many metal paints, can be fine when dry, but worse then a greased pig when wet. This is why chromed steel isn't used for rims anymore, not all finishes though are paint, aluminum can be anodized which is a special treatment, it will wear off, just like paint does, but doesn't affect the braking surface. A paint which contains an abrasive agent might work as well as bare aluminum, but I don't think that is common. Run your finger along the rim when dry and when wet, and see if there is a difference.