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  1. #1
    Member bridgestone9's Avatar
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    Shimano road brake question

    Trying to find stud bolts that are longer than usual to retrofit 105 calipers unto older steel frame that normally takes nutted bolts. The front calipers work well on the rear, but the rear one is useless unless I get a longer bolt. Any suggestions on a parts source?

  2. #2
    cab horn
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    Put the front on the front and drill out the rear of the front fork. If you want to use your rear brake, you could drill out the rear of the rear brake bridge and have the caliper mounted on the opposite side.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

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    Member bridgestone9's Avatar
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    That sounds like a cleaner option to my problem,Thanks

  4. #4
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    Drilling the rear face of the fork crown and the forward edge of the rear brake bridge will allow you to use the newer recessed nut mounting method. You can use an 8 mm or a 5/16" drill bit and be sure to drill only ONE side of each.

  5. #5
    Senior Member masi61's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider
    Drilling the rear face of the fork crown and the forward edge of the rear brake bridge will allow you to use the newer recessed nut mounting method. You can use an 8 mm or a 5/16" drill bit and be sure to drill only ONE side of each.
    I drilled out the rear brake bridge on a 1983 Cannondale aluminum women's frame that I've been working on. The 8mm drill bit and my cordless drill were too long to get in there for a straight shot so I had to carefully drill a little at at time slightly offset to each side. When I was finished the hole in the back is a little oversized now. Also, the standard recess nut is 10mm. I need a recess nut that is only about 6 mm long so that the flange will pull up against the back side of the brake bridge for a more secure and clean install. I'm afraid that if all that's holding the caliper in place is the front of the recess nut against the front of the brake bridge, the caliper will wobble. Can I take the standard recess nut and grind part of it away on my bench grinder?

  6. #6
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    biketiresdirect.com has problem solver studs that are longer

  7. #7
    Senior Member masi61's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaptainKurt99
    biketiresdirect.com has problem solver studs that are longer
    The odd thing is, I need problem solver studs that are SHORTER.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by masi61
    I drilled out the rear brake bridge on a 1983 Cannondale aluminum women's frame that I've been working on. The 8mm drill bit and my cordless drill were too long to get in there for a straight shot so I had to carefully drill a little at at time slightly offset to each side. When I was finished the hole in the back is a little oversized now.
    Clearance is a problem with most rear brake bridges. I've "drilled" them out by holding the drill bit in a pair of Vise-Grips and rotating it a fraction of a turn at a time. It took a while but made a properly aligned round hole.

    Also, the standard recess nut is 10mm. I need a recess nut that is only about 6 mm long so that the flange will pull up against the back side of the brake bridge for a more secure and clean install. I'm afraid that if all that's holding the caliper in place is the front of the recess nut against the front of the brake bridge, the caliper will wobble. Can I take the standard recess nut and grind part of it away on my bench grinder?
    I've never seen a 10 mm nut on any of the Shimano, Campy or Tektro brakes I've worked on. They are all fitted with 8 mm OD recessed nuts and all of the newer frames and forks I've worked on that were made for recessed brake mounting came factory drilled with 8 mm holes.

    You can certainly shorten the nut but you could also add a spacer washer between the brake caliper and the rear side of the brake bridge. I've used the spacer approach myself.

  9. #9
    Senior Member masi61's Avatar
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    The outer diameter of the nut is 8mm, the LENGTH of the nut was 10mm. I did turn the drill bit by hand part of the time. I'll try some 8mm stainless steel washers to get it to mount so the front of the nut doesn't bottom out. Thanks.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by masi61
    The outer diameter of the nut is 8mm, the LENGTH of the nut was 10mm. I did turn the drill bit by hand part of the time. I'll try some 8mm stainless steel washers to get it to mount so the front of the nut doesn't bottom out. Thanks.
    Whoops, i should have read you posting a bit more carefully. I missed that the length was 10 mm, not the diameter.

  11. #11
    Senior Member slim_77's Avatar
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    Can I take the standard recess nut and grind part of it away on my bench grinder?[/QUOTE]

    Why not shorten the bolt? Grinding the nut may destroy its shape and threads.

    I mounted a Shimano R600 on an 1980s Miyata fork. The pivot bolt was about 2-3 mm to long, thus interfering with the brake mechanism (even after using spacers!) so I hacked off part of the bolt to provide more clearence. No problem.

    A suggestion that was passed onto me via this forum: before you hack away, put a nut a few turns past the point where you will make your cut; after you cut, wrench it off to ensure a clean thread.
    gravity: it's not just a good idea, it's the law.

  12. #12
    Member bridgestone9's Avatar
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    Thanks you guys for all the great info, I can always count on great advice on the Forum.

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