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  1. #1
    Dolce far niente bigbossman's Avatar
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    Special tool needed for removing a Truvativ GXP Gigapipe crank/BB?

    I want to remove my Truvativ GXP Gigapipe crank/BB, and replace it with a Shimano crank/BB. I have the Shimano tool so I can do the installation, but need to know what tool (or removal method) I need to get he old crank/BB assembly off.
    "Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, itís the triumphant twang of a bedspring."

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    If you're removing the truvativ crank and have the shimano cup tool, you should just need that and an allen wrench to fit inside the crank bolt.... Removing the Giga-X-Pipe is a matter of just loosening the bolt on the non drive side till the crank comes off, sliding the drive side arm off, and then using the shimano cup tool to remove the truvativ cups.

    If it hasn't been done before and it's a lower end bike (I'd say sub-1200) you may want to consider getting the BB shell faced while you're at it.

  3. #3
    Dolce far niente bigbossman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TO11MTM
    If you're removing the truvativ crank and have the shimano cup tool, you should just need that and an allen wrench to fit inside the crank bolt.... Removing the Giga-X-Pipe is a matter of just loosening the bolt on the non drive side till the crank comes off, sliding the drive side arm off, and then using the shimano cup tool to remove the truvativ cups.

    If it hasn't been done before and it's a lower end bike (I'd say sub-1200) you may want to consider getting the BB shell faced while you're at it.
    Perfect - THANKS!! That'e exactly what I needed to know.
    "Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, itís the triumphant twang of a bedspring."

    S. J. Perelman

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    A slight addenum, some of the lower Giga-X-Pipe cranks don't have a one key release for the non drive side. (didn't even know this till this afternoon...) If yours is one of these, you will need an ISIS compatible crank puller. The Park CCP-4 would do the job....

  5. #5
    Dolce far niente bigbossman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TO11MTM
    A slight addenum, some of the lower Giga-X-Pipe cranks don't have a one key release for the non drive side. (didn't even know this till this afternoon...) If yours is one of these, you will need an ISIS compatible crank puller. The Park CCP-4 would do the job....
    Mine is a "Rouleur", so I think I'll be ok.
    "Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, itís the triumphant twang of a bedspring."

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    Should be, I had an Elita on my road bike (lower model) and it didn't have the one key (How I found out today, did the same upgrade you're talking about ), but the Stylo on the MTB (About same level as Rolleur) had the one key release..

  7. #7
    Dolce far niente bigbossman's Avatar
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    OK - last question.... what size allen key do I need for the outer hex on the non-drive side?

    I went to do the conversion tonight after work, and that was a show-stopper right out of the gate. I have the right size for the inner hed head, but I don't have anything big enough for the outer cap.

    I work next to a hardware store, so I'd like to pick one up tomorrow. It's either that, or $40 for the LBS to do the swap for me.......
    "Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, itís the triumphant twang of a bedspring."

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  8. #8
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbossman
    OK - last question.... what size allen key do I need for the outer hex on the non-drive side?

    I went to do the conversion tonight after work, and that was a show-stopper right out of the gate. I have the right size for the inner hed head, but I don't have anything big enough for the outer cap.

    I work next to a hardware store, so I'd like to pick one up tomorrow. It's either that, or $40 for the LBS to do the swap for me.......
    To save yourself future hassle, I'd get a whole metric allen wrench set: 8 mm, 6 mm, 5 mm, 4 mm, 3 mm, 2.5 mm. That should cover everything you'll find on a bike.
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  9. #9
    Dolce far niente bigbossman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by moxfyre
    To save yourself future hassle, I'd get a whole metric allen wrench set: 8 mm, 6 mm, 5 mm, 4 mm, 3 mm, 2.5 mm. That should cover everything you'll find on a bike.
    I've got a complete set, from 1.5 to 10mm.

    The one for the Truvativ hex cap SWALLOWS the 10mm. The inner hex bolt is 8mm, but the hollow center retaining cap looks to be somewhere in the 13-15mm range.

    Looks like I need one more.

    EDIT: Just returned from the Truvativ web site - the hey key specified is 16mm or 5/8. I guess I answered my own question, with a little research.....
    "Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, itís the triumphant twang of a bedspring."

    S. J. Perelman

  10. #10
    Dolce far niente bigbossman's Avatar
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    OK - I said that that last question was the last question - I was in error.....

    I got the 5/8" hex key, and removed the cap. I used the 8mm hex key to remove the "self extracting" bolt on the non-drive side. Now - how do I get the crank arm off? Do I need yet another tool, or is there something simple I'm missing?

    If I can't figure it out this weekend, it goes into the LBS on Monday............
    "Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, itís the triumphant twang of a bedspring."

    S. J. Perelman

  11. #11
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    is the non drive side off yet? where are you at in this?

  12. #12
    Dolce far niente bigbossman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TO11MTM
    is the non drive side off yet? where are you at in this?
    Short story - the job is done.

    Long story - I was fooling with this yesterday, trying to get the non-drive side off. I'm used to vintage bikes that have square tapered BB's and require a crank puller, so the workings of a "self-extracting" bolt was new to me. I futzed around with it, did a few web searches, and finally figured out how to operate it - at least in theory.

    I removed the cap bolt, greased the top of the self-extractor bolt, and re-installed the cap. I inserted the 8mm hex key into the self-extractor bolt and turned.....nothing. I put a cheater bar on it and gave it a heave..... and rounded out the center of the self-extractor bolt...... I'm slow, but not stupid..... I put my tools down, had a cocktail, and went to bed.

    Today, I brought the whole mess to the LBS and confessed to what I had done. The helpful mechanic was able to hammer a hex key into the rounded out hole, and using a bigger cheater bar break the self-extractor bolt loose and remove the assembly for me. He was kind enough to "no-charge" me for the service, so I handed him the Shimano BB and gladly paid the fee to have him install it while he gave me some show-and-tell time on the whole procedure. I returned later with a 12 pack for the crew to enjoy after work. I returned home and installed the new Shimano crank without difficulty.

    Not how I envisioned it, but the job is done right, I learned something, the bike looks/rides slick, and hopefully the LBS will remember me fondly.

    All's well that ends well...........
    "Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, itís the triumphant twang of a bedspring."

    S. J. Perelman

  13. #13
    Young and unconcerned Treefox's Avatar
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    For the purposes of posterity, I'll note that I needed a crank puller for a Truvative Elita non-drive side arm, as it was non-self-extracting.

    Used a Park CCP-44 and it was dead easy.
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  14. #14
    DOS
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treefox View Post
    For the purposes of posterity, I'll note that I needed a crank puller for a Truvative Elita non-drive side arm, as it was non-self-extracting.

    Used a Park CCP-44 and it was dead easy.
    I have used the Park CWP-6 universal puller for ISIS, Octalink, and square taper BBs without problems for years -- http://www.parktool.com/products/det...=26&item=CWP-6. It has been re-designed as CWP-7, but same principle -- http://www.parktool.com/products/det...6&item=CWP%2D7. One tool for all cartridge BBs, what could be better than that?

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