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  1. #1
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    Wobbly head stems and squeeling breaks argh!

    I did a repack of a headset on a '78 Nishiki road bike. It went flawless I had the same headset as a poster that was confused about it. I didn't need a wrench to take the second locknut off but I did need one to take the top nut off. So I put it together and it went together flawless cleaned out the gunk relubed now after tightening everything down and using the head set wrench to put it back on and I tightened it with lots of force. Now it wobbles! did I miss something I am going to check park tools and sheldons sites and see if I can get some info if I missed something. Or did the head set get so indexed when I removed the dirt and filth it created some room to wobble. My second question is that I replaced the 30 something year old pads that squealed like a banshee with some fresh new rubber and I tightened them down and made every attempt to make sure they hit the rim square and they do and they still squeel. What is this squeeling caused from and why does it appear? I haven't tried fileing some rubber off them yet and clean the rim that is what is in order next. Thank you for reading my diatribe and figureing out my problems *oops my titles is wrong it says headstems where did I get that from? it is to be a headset breaks? I like them at work it is meant to be a brake
    Last edited by ryanparrish; 08-16-06 at 03:41 PM.

  2. #2
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    Yes, you did something wrong If the fork wobbles, the headset is too loose... try tightening the adjustable race about 1/4 turn tighter *with the stem in place*, then tighten the locknut down very tight on top of it. To check if it wobbles, grab the stem with one hand and the fork blade with the other. Try shaking them back and forth, and if you can feel any play it's still too loose.

    Squealing is caused by a variety of things: badly angled brake pads, grease on the rims, etc...
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    Quote Originally Posted by moxfyre
    Yes, you did something wrong If the fork wobbles, the headset is too loose... try tightening the adjustable race about 1/4 turn tighter *with the stem in place*, then tighten the locknut down very tight on top of it. To check if it wobbles, grab the stem with one hand and the fork blade with the other. Try shaking them back and forth, and if you can feel any play it's still too loose.

    Squealing is caused by a variety of things: badly angled brake pads, grease on the rims, etc...
    Thanks for the response, but I have tried that multiple time, but the thing keeps coming loose and wobbles do I need to get a second wrench and tighten the "lockring?" that sits on top of the washer with teeth

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    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanparrish
    Thanks for the response, but I have tried that multiple time, but the thing keeps coming loose and wobbles do I need to get a second wrench and tighten the "lockring?" that sits on top of the washer with teeth
    I'm not sure exactly what style of headset you have, but yes there are TWO things that you need to tighten. The adjustable race (the thing that actually holds the bearings in place), and the locknut which goes on top of the adjustable race. If you don't tighten down the locknut, the adjustable race will quickly wobble itself silly and get very loose.

    You have to tighten the locknut very tight to hold the adjustment of the adjustable race. This works because when you tighten the locknut tightly against the race, the threads on the fork actually stretch slightly, preventing either the race or the locknut from turning.

    You should read the parktool article on headset adjustment, or a good book: http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127
    It's one of the trickier adjustments.
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    I had this headset from this discussion



    I didn't need a wrench to get it off when I first took it apart am I going to get the wrench to put it back correctly to stop this wobbly problem

  6. #6
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    Ah, yes, that headset I believe in the other thread I suggest a way of using a mallet and old screwdriver to turn the notched ring... you *can* make it work but it will be a HUGE pain in the ass. You'll have to adjust the race, then HOLD the race perfectly still while turning the notched ring so that it is tight against the race.

    My suggestion is to get an ordinary lock nut to replace the notched ring (as discussed in the other thread, it's a terrible design). A lock nut serves the same purpose as the notched ring--it holds the adjustment of the race by tightening against it--but it has wrench flats so that you can use an ordinary big adjustable wrench on it. You will be able to hold the race with one hand while turning a normal wrench with the other hand, much much easier.

    Just go to an LBS and ask if you can have a locknut for a 1" threaded steerer. They may have a bucket full and give you one for free...

    PS- These headsets are my major beef with Nishiki. I got a 1983 Nishiki Sport for my girlfriend, which has excellent and serviceable components (surprising for a low-end bike) except for the monstrous headset. If you want to replace it, get one of these JIS headsets off ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/JIS-Replacement-...QQcmdZViewItem. They are cheap and very nice and work like a normal English headset.
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    Wow 7 dollars it might be worth going that direction and just dump this retarted design. I will need to have the the cups pressed into the frame by the LBS? or is there some DIY to get it done

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    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanparrish
    Wow 7 dollars it might be worth going that direction and just dump this retarted design. I will need to have the the cups pressed into the frame by the LBS? or is there some DIY to get it done
    Yes, there is a DIY way ... search for "ghetto headset press" whenever they re-enable search. Basically you need a long threaded rod, say 1/2 inch thick, with two nuts that fit it and two BIG WIDE washers. Should cost about $5 at Home Depot and works well.
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    I am also going to need some ruber washers as well so I don't get a scratch on the new headset.found the orginal post I am also going to need to remove the cups diy for this or should I just purchase the thingamabob that spreads out in the head tube? What is the diffrence between the 7 dollar specialty and the more expensive stuff in the LBS?

  10. #10
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    I think the $7 JIS headset is all steel, whereas fancier headsets have some aluminum parts to keep them light weight. As I said, I've used it and it works great... the only real problem is it's low-zoot compared to something like a Chris King headset. Sheldon Brown's shop sells other JIS headsets also pretty cheap.

    Before you go through all this trouble though, do try the ultra-ghetto method of headset adjustment
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    whats the ultra ghetto method steddying the bottom cup with some pipe and whacking it with a mallet? I went to the lbs with the part with 3 notches in it and they gave me a nut which was to large even with the the washer with the teeth of so I will just get the new headset and install that the non zoot one

  12. #12
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    I meant the ultra-ghetto method of turning the notched ring with a mallet and screwdriver. It'll take quite a bit of playing around to get it right, but you CAN do it.

    What's wrong with the locknut that the LBS gave you? I don't understand... it doesn't screw onto the fork correctly???
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    It only goes down so far on the threaded steering tube and doesn't leave room for the top nut the one that needs a headset wrench (is that the bearing race ) so it is either buy the wrench for the lockring or buy the new head set and just be done with it. I think I would rather be done with it and not have to fiddle with it

  14. #14
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanparrish
    It only goes down so far on the threaded steering tube and doesn't leave room for the top nut the one that needs a headset wrench (is that the bearing race ) so it is either buy the wrench for the lockring or buy the new head set and just be done with it. I think I would rather be done with it and not have to fiddle with it
    So you're saying the locknut doesn't go down far enough to press against the bearing race? I guess your fork steer tube is longer than the one this locknut was made for...

    There is nothing wrong with the headset other than the adjustable race and locknut being of a ******** design. If you can get a couple old ones that will fit on your steer tube, you should be able to make it work fine. Or just get the new one, I'm just worried that it will be fairly complicated installation if you haven't done this kind of thing before...
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    I like complicated it gives me something to do as long as I have a back up to get to and fro it is not a problem and I learn something new and makes me a better mechanic. I like to fiddle with things thats the reason I kinda bought this bike was for commuting purposes and learn and fiddle with I want to tackle the bottom bracket and the hub when the snow flies I usually ride the bus or get a ride then I can play with the bike somemore

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