gear shifters ? I want to change mine
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
gear shifters ? I want to change mine
Ive got the Diamondback Wildwood Tandem....and yes we love it and dont intend to change til this one literally will not work anymore...but I hate those positive click shifters. I have every since the first time I saw them. I dont want to explain 'why' I dont like them, I just dont
This is a personal preference thing, so please, no one try to talk me out of it, tell me Im ignorant, compare what I have with what I want, etc....just please help me find a site where I can buy what Id like to get
What Id like is the old ten speed sort of shifters... the ones that sit on the neck and you have no clue what gear your actually in....NO positive clicking either, please, that is part of my irritation with the shifters we have (that and the fact that they are well into the grip area and with my larger hands are often in the way.
Is there a good site where I can find this type of shifter for a 24 (sorry) speed ?
thanks
wm
This is a personal preference thing, so please, no one try to talk me out of it, tell me Im ignorant, compare what I have with what I want, etc....just please help me find a site where I can buy what Id like to get
What Id like is the old ten speed sort of shifters... the ones that sit on the neck and you have no clue what gear your actually in....NO positive clicking either, please, that is part of my irritation with the shifters we have (that and the fact that they are well into the grip area and with my larger hands are often in the way.
Is there a good site where I can find this type of shifter for a 24 (sorry) speed ?
thanks
wm
Last edited by FoC; 08-17-06 at 06:05 PM.
#2
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
What you're referring to are "indexed" shifters (the kind that click into place for each cog) and "friction" shifters (the kind that move continuously in between gears). I happen to prefer friction shifters most of the time, since they need less adjustment, although I find them not so good for racing and fast rides where I need to shift fast.
If I understand you correctly, you want stem shifters, which attach to the handlebar stem. Um... frankly, I think that's foolish because it's a bad place for shifters: it is better to have shifters closer to the brakes and further from the center of the bike, to improve your balance. They are basically considered obsolete. But if you REALLY want stem shifters, then pretty much *any* will do... since they work in friction mode it doesn't much matter what kind of derailers or cassette you have. I have a few pairs of stem shifters in my parts bin, yours for the price of shipping.
The problem is that if your tandem is a newer model, it almost certainly has a threadless headset with a 1-1/8" stem. I don't think that any stem shifters exist which will fit a threadless stem/fork. But if you have a 1" threaded/quill stem then stem shifters will work.
I would suggest that instead of using friction STEM shifters, you use friction BAR-END shifters. Here's an example of what they look like on my bike:
They attach to the ends of the handlebar, and all models of them can be made to work in friction mode. There are many models still made, or you can find them used much cheaper since you don't care about the indexing. www.Nashbar.com sells brand-new bar-end shifters for about $50, but I think the best FRICTION-MODE model ever are the old SunTour barcons which can be had for about $10 on ebay.
If I understand you correctly, you want stem shifters, which attach to the handlebar stem. Um... frankly, I think that's foolish because it's a bad place for shifters: it is better to have shifters closer to the brakes and further from the center of the bike, to improve your balance. They are basically considered obsolete. But if you REALLY want stem shifters, then pretty much *any* will do... since they work in friction mode it doesn't much matter what kind of derailers or cassette you have. I have a few pairs of stem shifters in my parts bin, yours for the price of shipping.
The problem is that if your tandem is a newer model, it almost certainly has a threadless headset with a 1-1/8" stem. I don't think that any stem shifters exist which will fit a threadless stem/fork. But if you have a 1" threaded/quill stem then stem shifters will work.
I would suggest that instead of using friction STEM shifters, you use friction BAR-END shifters. Here's an example of what they look like on my bike:
They attach to the ends of the handlebar, and all models of them can be made to work in friction mode. There are many models still made, or you can find them used much cheaper since you don't care about the indexing. www.Nashbar.com sells brand-new bar-end shifters for about $50, but I think the best FRICTION-MODE model ever are the old SunTour barcons which can be had for about $10 on ebay.
#3
www.theheadbadge.com
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 28,513
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
Mentioned: 124 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2422 Post(s)
Liked 4,395 Times
in
2,092 Posts
If you have downtube lever bosses, I'd suggest Shimano's Light Action shifters.
If you'd still prefer to mount on the stem, you can sometimes find Light Action shifters with a stem clamp adapter for traditional diameter stems. If you have a threadless 1-1/8" fork, you might be able to use a downtube lever clamp on the larger stem.
Take care,
-Kurt
If you'd still prefer to mount on the stem, you can sometimes find Light Action shifters with a stem clamp adapter for traditional diameter stems. If you have a threadless 1-1/8" fork, you might be able to use a downtube lever clamp on the larger stem.
Take care,
-Kurt
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
thanks.
I dont like the click shifting as it seems like one or two gears are always having trouble when shifting to the next lower gear....like it tries but it gets hung up. Ive cleaned the crap out of everything and adjusted till Im just about fed up with it. there is always one or two gears that are a pain....even when we first got the bike and the store bike mech. had it as good as he said it probably would get.
I just dont remember ever having this type of problem with my old 10 speeds with the shimano parts.
I guess anything that is friction instead of that clicking thing would be sufficient....and also they cant be the kind that sit next to the grips like the stock ones do....they are in the way of my hands more times than not.
Additionally, the stem does seem to be 1" not 1 1/8".
Do you have a link where I could look at these 'bar end' shifters?
Sorry about the OP, its just that most of the time when Im on the internet on forums like this when I ask a question some 14 year old kid comes in and posts 10 times telling me how stupid I am for asking what Im asking ....Im 41...I dont need the games just some answers
So, what would you guys suggest....
I like the friction idea and I need the shifters away from the grips....
I dont like the click shifting as it seems like one or two gears are always having trouble when shifting to the next lower gear....like it tries but it gets hung up. Ive cleaned the crap out of everything and adjusted till Im just about fed up with it. there is always one or two gears that are a pain....even when we first got the bike and the store bike mech. had it as good as he said it probably would get.
I just dont remember ever having this type of problem with my old 10 speeds with the shimano parts.
I guess anything that is friction instead of that clicking thing would be sufficient....and also they cant be the kind that sit next to the grips like the stock ones do....they are in the way of my hands more times than not.
Additionally, the stem does seem to be 1" not 1 1/8".
Do you have a link where I could look at these 'bar end' shifters?
Sorry about the OP, its just that most of the time when Im on the internet on forums like this when I ask a question some 14 year old kid comes in and posts 10 times telling me how stupid I am for asking what Im asking ....Im 41...I dont need the games just some answers
So, what would you guys suggest....
I like the friction idea and I need the shifters away from the grips....
#5
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by FoC
thanks.
I dont like the click shifting as it seems like one or two gears are always having trouble when shifting to the next lower gear....like it tries but it gets hung up. Ive cleaned the crap out of everything and adjusted till Im just about fed up with it. there is always one or two gears that are a pain....even when we first got the bike and the store bike mech. had it as good as he said it probably would get.
I just dont remember ever having this type of problem with my old 10 speeds with the shimano parts.
I guess anything that is friction instead of that clicking thing would be sufficient....and also they cant be the kind that sit next to the grips like the stock ones do....they are in the way of my hands more times than not.
Additionally, the stem does seem to be 1" not 1 1/8".
Do you have a link where I could look at these 'bar end' shifters?
Sorry about the OP, its just that most of the time when Im on the internet on forums like this when I ask a question some 14 year old kid comes in and posts 10 times telling me how stupid I am for asking what Im asking ....Im 41...I dont need the games just some answers
So, what would you guys suggest....
I like the friction idea and I need the shifters away from the grips....
I dont like the click shifting as it seems like one or two gears are always having trouble when shifting to the next lower gear....like it tries but it gets hung up. Ive cleaned the crap out of everything and adjusted till Im just about fed up with it. there is always one or two gears that are a pain....even when we first got the bike and the store bike mech. had it as good as he said it probably would get.
I just dont remember ever having this type of problem with my old 10 speeds with the shimano parts.
I guess anything that is friction instead of that clicking thing would be sufficient....and also they cant be the kind that sit next to the grips like the stock ones do....they are in the way of my hands more times than not.
Additionally, the stem does seem to be 1" not 1 1/8".
Do you have a link where I could look at these 'bar end' shifters?
Sorry about the OP, its just that most of the time when Im on the internet on forums like this when I ask a question some 14 year old kid comes in and posts 10 times telling me how stupid I am for asking what Im asking ....Im 41...I dont need the games just some answers
So, what would you guys suggest....
I like the friction idea and I need the shifters away from the grips....
I thought you had drop-bar road bike handlebars. Unfortunately, there aren't too many friction-shifting options for flat handlebars. There are very old thumb shifters which are not in a very good position for easy shifting in my opinion, but you might like them... Your best bet for these would be to look on ebay, they should be quite cheap. If you really *do* have a 1" threaded stem (go to sheldonbrown.com and red about the difference to make sure), then you can still use stem shifters with the mountain bike handlebars. It will look goofy as hell, but if that's what ya want then go for it
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hi again.
Well, all I did was measure the neck...it was exactly 1".....Im not sure if this was the correct way tho....
Our bars arent exactly flat....theyre raised about 2 inches or so from the center.....not flat at all.
Ive tried moving the shifters in a bit, that has them kind of out of the way, but not enough...regardless of that tho, its that annoying thing of not being able to get them set perfectly.
Im not overly concerned about the look if it means having something that works the way Id like it to.
Ill check out the site...thanks
Well, all I did was measure the neck...it was exactly 1".....Im not sure if this was the correct way tho....
Our bars arent exactly flat....theyre raised about 2 inches or so from the center.....not flat at all.
Ive tried moving the shifters in a bit, that has them kind of out of the way, but not enough...regardless of that tho, its that annoying thing of not being able to get them set perfectly.
Im not overly concerned about the look if it means having something that works the way Id like it to.
Ill check out the site...thanks
#7
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by FoC
Hi again.
Well, all I did was measure the neck...it was exactly 1".....Im not sure if this was the correct way tho....
Our bars arent exactly flat....theyre raised about 2 inches or so from the center.....not flat at all.
Ive tried moving the shifters in a bit, that has them kind of out of the way, but not enough...regardless of that tho, its that annoying thing of not being able to get them set perfectly.
Im not overly concerned about the look if it means having something that works the way Id like it to.
Ill check out the site...thanks
Well, all I did was measure the neck...it was exactly 1".....Im not sure if this was the correct way tho....
Our bars arent exactly flat....theyre raised about 2 inches or so from the center.....not flat at all.
Ive tried moving the shifters in a bit, that has them kind of out of the way, but not enough...regardless of that tho, its that annoying thing of not being able to get them set perfectly.
Im not overly concerned about the look if it means having something that works the way Id like it to.
Ill check out the site...thanks
Unfortunately, if your stem is exactly 1" in diameter, that means you have a 1-1/8" fork. If your stem was 7/8", that would be the right size for stem shifters. (I know, quite confusing ) You almost certainly have a threadless stem, which clamps on to the outside of the fork, rather than a quill stem, which goes INTO the fork (can you check that for sure?). I highly doubt that there is any practical way to mount stem shifters to a threadless stem ... though somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
Actually, I'm kinda stumped here. I can't think of any very good way to get friction shifting on a modern mountain bike with 1-1/8" threadless fork... maybe somebody else can think of a way.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Despite the fact that your bars have a bit of rise, they are still "flat bars" in bike terms. The alternative is "drop bars", the downward curved rams-horn type bars you see on all road racing and most road bikes.
You are limited to the shifters intended for Mountain Bikes so forget the bar end types as these are pretty much for drop bars only. (Of course, now I'll hear from someone who fit them to an MTB.)
If your bike has downtube bosses you could fit friction type downtube shifters and these will be as out-of-the-way as you can get.
You are limited to the shifters intended for Mountain Bikes so forget the bar end types as these are pretty much for drop bars only. (Of course, now I'll hear from someone who fit them to an MTB.)
If your bike has downtube bosses you could fit friction type downtube shifters and these will be as out-of-the-way as you can get.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Originally Posted by moxfyre
Actually, I'm kinda stumped here. I can't think of any very good way to get friction shifting on a modern mountain bike with 1-1/8" threadless fork... maybe somebody else can think of a way.
#11
www.theheadbadge.com
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 28,513
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
Mentioned: 124 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2422 Post(s)
Liked 4,395 Times
in
2,092 Posts
Originally Posted by moxfyre
Actually, I'm kinda stumped here. I can't think of any very good way to get friction shifting on a modern mountain bike with 1-1/8" threadless fork... maybe somebody else can think of a way.
-Kurt
#13
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by cudak888
Simple. Use a 1-1/8" downtube shifter boss clamp on the stem, then mount those Light Action road levers on it.
-Kurt
-Kurt
#14
www.theheadbadge.com
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 28,513
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
Mentioned: 124 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2422 Post(s)
Liked 4,395 Times
in
2,092 Posts
Originally Posted by FoC
Just looked at this and they seem perfect....now just where to buy them
https://cgi.ebay.com/SHIMANO-L422-DOW...QQcmdZViewItem
-Kurt
#15
www.theheadbadge.com
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Southern Florida
Posts: 28,513
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
Mentioned: 124 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2422 Post(s)
Liked 4,395 Times
in
2,092 Posts
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by cudak888
Here you go. Shimano Light Action shifters, NOS, on eBay, ending in 1 hour, 10 minutes, complete with 1-1/8" clamp.
https://cgi.ebay.com/SHIMANO-L422-DOW...QQcmdZViewItem
-Kurt
https://cgi.ebay.com/SHIMANO-L422-DOW...QQcmdZViewItem
-Kurt
#17
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by FoC
These are definitely what I want....but.....how do I know if this 1 1/8 is correct or not?
In that case you want a 1 inch clamp (which may not exist, since these shifters were originally meant to go on a downtube). Or you could buy this 1-1/8" size... and make a shim using a thick piece of rubber wrapped around the stem. A shim can work very well, and though it may make your bike look goofy... oh wait, your bike is already going to look goofy with stem shifters
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by moxfyre
Well, you said that the stem measures "exactly 1 inch" in the place where you want to clamp on the shifters... is that correct?
Or you could buy this 1-1/8" size... and make a shim using a thick piece of rubber wrapped around the stem. A shim can work very well.....
oh wait, your bike is already going to look goofy with stem shifters
#19
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by FoC
This is the type of thing I was trying to avoid.....thanks for the help, but I could do without the sarcasm....it doesnt make me want to come here with questions....
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Posts: 152
Bikes: Surly LHT
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What about Paul's Thumbies with barcon shifters?
https://www.paulcomp.com/thumbmtn.html
Just utilise the friction option. As I understand it, it's not the position of the stem shifters that was the important thing, it was having shifters that didn't click (index)but worked by friction.
https://www.paulcomp.com/thumbmtn.html
Just utilise the friction option. As I understand it, it's not the position of the stem shifters that was the important thing, it was having shifters that didn't click (index)but worked by friction.
#21
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
22 Posts
Originally Posted by moxfyre
but I think the best FRICTION-MODE model ever are the old SunTour barcons which can be had for about $10 on ebay.
#22
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by BluesDawg
I definitely agree they are the best, but I'm guessing you haven't priced them lately.
I also have a couple pairs of SunTour Accushift 7-speed bar-end shifters which I got for free. They look to be pretty nice too.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Montreal
Posts: 6,521
Bikes: Peugeot Hybrid, Minelli Hybrid
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
The shifting problems you describe are often caused by a bent rear derailler hanger. This must be checked with a hanger alignment tool, as you cant tell just by eyeballing it. Ask your bike shop to check with this tool
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Originally Posted by FoC
Ive tried moving the shifters in a bit, that has them kind of out of the way, but not enough...regardless of that tho, its that annoying thing of not being able to get them set perfectly.
New cables and cable housings will usually make a big improvement to index shifting.
Having said that, I too appreciate the advantages of friction shifting.
Al
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Montreal
Posts: 6,521
Bikes: Peugeot Hybrid, Minelli Hybrid
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Look in this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/introductions/220587-big-hello-dorset.html
Stacey seems to have bar end shifters on straight bars.
https://www.bikeforums.net/introductions/220587-big-hello-dorset.html
Stacey seems to have bar end shifters on straight bars.