Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-19-06, 06:19 PM   #1
PIZZ
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 213
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Converting BOLT ON to QUICK RELEASE

Just wanted to know what I would have to do to convert a Bolt on front wheel to a quick release. I was able to take out the threaded pin from the hub, can I just buy a quick release rod and insert it or do I need to replace anything else?
PIZZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-06, 07:59 PM   #2
knjc68
Cyclin' twosome
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Billings, Montana
Bikes:
Posts: 53
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Not sure what you have there...
Generally a bolt-on hub will have a solid axle that extends through both dropouts, with a nut on each end (which are tightened against the outside of the dropouts). A quick-releae (QR) hub has a hollow axle that extends only partially into the dropouts, with a skewer (rod) that extends completely through the axle & dropouts, & is tightened with the lever on one end. I'm guess I'm not familiar with a bolt-on hub that can be converted to QR without replacing the axle.
knjc68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-06, 08:11 PM   #3
moxfyre
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
 
moxfyre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Posts: 4,166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
knjc's explanation of the parts is good.

In order to convert a bolt-on wheel to quick-release, you must replace the axle (the 10 mm thick threaded rod) with a hollow axle. You'll need to adjust the cup-and-cone bearings when replacing the axle.
moxfyre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-06, 08:45 PM   #4
PIZZ
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 213
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
ok, SO I would just replace the axle with a QR axle and then i can use the QR rod? This is a fairly new road bike that I wwant to do this on but I also have an older Huffy, (70s) That has the front bolt on but I was able to unscrew the bolts and pull out the pin which leaves a hole through the axle/hub. I'm assuming these older hubs you can just use a QR and replace the rod?
PIZZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-06, 10:05 PM   #5
roccobike
Bike Junkie
 
roccobike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: South of Raleigh, North of New Hill, East of Harris Lake, NC
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Speialized Roubaix, Giant OCR-C, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR, Stumpjumper Comp, 88 & 92Nishiki Ariel, 01 Bianchi Campione, 87 Centurion Ironman, 92 Paramount
Posts: 9,441
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
I've made this change on two or three older road bikes. Yes, it can be done, but here are some potential concerns. The front axle, especially on your older Huffy, is probably a thinner diameter than the hollow, QR axle. That means you may have to bore out the fork ends in order to accomodate the new axle. Additionally, you will need to buy two new axle cones to hold the wheel bearings in place. You may have difficulty finding new cones with the correct bearing seal size to protect the wheel bearings. Each wheel is different and you may or may not have this problem. When replacing the rear axle, I've never had a size diameter difference between the solid axle and the hollow, QR axle. However, in one instance the threads were not the same so I had to purchase new cones. When replacing the rear axle, be careful to note the postion of the spacers and chech the width of any replacement cones. It's important to line up the rear cassette/freewheel correctly with the deraileur. In my case, I had to retune one of the rear deraileurs after the change.
__________________
Roccobike BF Official Thread Terminator
roccobike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-11, 06:54 PM   #6
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 7
Posts: 18,714
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 198 Post(s)
I expect its Taipei sourced? all you need is a line of credit,
they take over and do everything else.

now if you can make one for 3 speed hubs, right side,
and still allow passage for the indicator chain..[ and the spy hole to see it]

Then you got a good thing indeed

Last edited by fietsbob; 11-16-11 at 07:10 PM.
fietsbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-11, 10:19 AM   #7
Axle Release
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Bikes:
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
New Hub Conversion Product that converts a solid hub to quick release without tools

Yes, it is made in Taichung, Taiwan. Obviously, the current models accommodate most solid axle conversions including e-bikes, 7+ speed internally geared hubs, normal solid axles, etc...There are several models coming out in 2012 that are specific to certain hubs. The ARSA1332 is for Sturmey-Archer 3 and 5 Speed internally geared hubs with a chain indicator coming out the end of the axle. It replaces the "Standard Guide Nut" for Sturmey-Archer. There is also an e-bike model (ARE12) for hubs that have power cables coming out the end of the axles. These products were debuted at Interbike 2011 in Las Vegas.
Axle Release is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:55 AM.