PIZZ

Just wanted to know what I would have to do to convert a Bolt on front wheel to a quick release. I was able to take out the threaded pin from the hub, can I just buy a quick release rod and insert it or do I need to replace anything else?

knjc68

Not sure what you have there...
Generally a bolt-on hub will have a solid axle that extends through both dropouts, with a nut on each end (which are tightened against the outside of the dropouts). A quick-releae (QR) hub has a hollow axle that extends only partially into the dropouts, with a skewer (rod) that extends completely through the axle & dropouts, & is tightened with the lever on one end. I'm guess I'm not familiar with a bolt-on hub that can be converted to QR without replacing the axle.

moxfyre

knjc's explanation of the parts is good.

In order to convert a bolt-on wheel to quick-release, you must replace the axle (the 10 mm thick threaded rod) with a hollow axle. You'll need to adjust the cup-and-cone bearings when replacing the axle.

PIZZ

ok, SO I would just replace the axle with a QR axle and then i can use the QR rod? This is a fairly new road bike that I wwant to do this on but I also have an older Huffy, (70s) That has the front bolt on but I was able to unscrew the bolts and pull out the pin which leaves a hole through the axle/hub. I'm assuming these older hubs you can just use a QR and replace the rod?

roccobike

I've made this change on two or three older road bikes. Yes, it can be done, but here are some potential concerns. The front axle, especially on your older Huffy, is probably a thinner diameter than the hollow, QR axle. That means you may have to bore out the fork ends in order to accomodate the new axle. Additionally, you will need to buy two new axle cones to hold the wheel bearings in place. You may have difficulty finding new cones with the correct bearing seal size to protect the wheel bearings. Each wheel is different and you may or may not have this problem. When replacing the rear axle, I've never had a size diameter difference between the solid axle and the hollow, QR axle. However, in one instance the threads were not the same so I had to purchase new cones. When replacing the rear axle, be careful to note the postion of the spacers and chech the width of any replacement cones. It's important to line up the rear cassette/freewheel correctly with the deraileur. In my case, I had to retune one of the rear deraileurs after the change.

fietsbob

I expect its Taipei sourced? all you need is a line of credit,
they take over and do everything else.

now if you can make one for 3 speed hubs, right side,
and still allow passage for the indicator chain..[ and the spy hole to see it]

Then you got a good thing indeed

Axle Release

Yes, it is made in Taichung, Taiwan. Obviously, the current models accommodate most solid axle conversions including e-bikes, 7+ speed internally geared hubs, normal solid axles, etc...There are several models coming out in 2012 that are specific to certain hubs. The ARSA1332 is for Sturmey-Archer 3 and 5 Speed internally geared hubs with a chain indicator coming out the end of the axle. It replaces the "Standard Guide Nut" for Sturmey-Archer. There is also an e-bike model (ARE12) for hubs that have power cables coming out the end of the axles. These products were debuted at Interbike 2011 in Las Vegas.