Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-04-06, 09:00 PM   #1
duffer1960
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Milwaukee
Bikes: Fred cycles
Posts: 503
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Headset binding - 1966 Raleigh Sport? (AMF Hercules)

'Hey',

I bought an AMF-Hercules, everything including the inner tubes is Made In England. The Sturmey AW hub code is '11-6' which I guess is for 1966. Not sure, but it may be a rebadged Raleigh Sport w/ Hercules details (far-out chainguard & what else?).

I'm doing a quick-over to make it roadworthy. New tires, tighten & lube the things I can. Oil in the hubs and the BB port, I ain't touching the AW which seems to be in great condition anyway, or the cottered crank BB if I can possibly avoid it. Judging from the lack of wear on the chain, sprockets, and tires, I'd guess it doesn't have 100 miles on it.

I did drop the headset though, got 50 tiny balls out. It wasn't binding before I took it apart, just wanted to give it its 40-year overhaul. Didn't notice any obvious problems with the races or balls. Got 50 balls back in, 25 top & 25 bottom, mixed the top & bottom balls though (Doh!?). Now, I can't find an adjustment that is not either too loose or binding. Always binds in the same place: fork turned far to the right, farther than would ever be done in an actual ride. In my effort to solve this, took it apart again & wiped off the polyurea grease & put motor oil instead. No change. Thought maybe taking it off the stand & riding it a bit might help, but no change, still binds when cranked all the way to the right. (Haven't ridden it much yet, only a couple of blocks, have to fix some other stuff.)

Do I need to get to the 'root cause' & solve it to avoid damaging it? Any ideas what the 'root cause' is? As is, it doesn't impact normal riding. Just don't want it to get worse or damage a part.

This is my 2nd lifetime 'overhaul', so I'm not sure of my skills on setting the headset adjustable cup. Is this just a very very hard thing for newbies?

Thanks,

-Rich

Last edited by duffer1960; 09-04-06 at 09:12 PM.
duffer1960 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-06, 10:27 PM   #2
moxfyre
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
 
moxfyre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Posts: 4,166
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Replace the balls The upper and lower balls are stressed very differently and may wear differently. To make matters worse, some headsets use different sized balls in the upper and lower cups... though I'm assuming you would have noticed if that's the case.

Getting a headset adjusted carefully IS a rather tricky job for newbies. A few tips: Hold BOTH the adjustable race AND the lockring with cone wrenches while you tighten the lockring. Inspect the races for any sign of pitting.

Replacing headset balls can make an AMAZING difference even if nothing is visibly wrong with them. On my new fixie, I had given up the headset for dead, since it was so rough and no adjustment helped it. So I went out and bought new balls from the LBS. I popped them in, greased it up, and adjusted it... and lo and behold the headset is smooth as butter and good as new
moxfyre is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-06, 04:18 PM   #3
duffer1960
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Milwaukee
Bikes: Fred cycles
Posts: 503
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Update

Bought new balls, but only 24 ea. would fit instead of 25. Still the same problem -- either was loose or it bound when turned to the left (did i say right? meant left.).

Took it to Ben's here. They tried with the old parts-- refaced the head tube, etc, couldn't get it to work. They ordered a new headset cups, cones. Still seems just a tad loose, but, after all this (and the $ damage wasn't too bad) I ain't complaining. It probably won't be ridden too many miles anyway.

Thanks for the suggestions Mox.

-Rich
duffer1960 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-08, 06:23 AM   #4
grayvw
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Boston, MA
Bikes: Dahon Boardwalk D7, Triumph 3-speed, Trek 7100
Posts: 64
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
What is the diameter for these ball bearings? I will need to purchase a new set for my Raleigh Sports, too. Thanks.
grayvw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-08, 08:15 AM   #5
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,776
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
One possibility is that the headtube faces aren't exactly parallel and the headset binds when turned all the way to either extreme. I don't know why yours binds only when turned left. Facing the headtube may be the cure.

However, if it is smooth and play-free straight ahead and when turned a few degrees either way as during normal riding, I'd use it as is. Old Raleighs had unique fork threading so getting a replacement headset won't be easy.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:24 AM.