newbie with a rim question
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 119
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
newbie with a rim question
i have just recieved my first road bike that i purchased off of ebay. it's a miyata 512 (i'm satisfied, for 130 bucks shipped). it is still disassembled from the shipping and i am having a few knowledgable friends from work put it together/show me how to do it. while cleaning off the rear rim (wolber gentleman gta), i noticed that there are a few hairline cracks around (maybe 4 or 5) the eyelets on the rim where the spokes meet the rim. they run parallel to the rim (hard to explain, but they run with the rim, not out or away from the eyelets) and are very small [edit: it still doesn't sound clear, but they stem from the eyelets and run towards the other eyelets, not toward the tire or outside]. one of the spokes seems to be slightly pulling the rim up on one of the cracks.
i have been able to find some to very little information about this specific issue on the internet. i called a couple lbs's and one said to not worry about it at all and one said that it may become an issue in the future, but it isn't a reason not to ride it. i was wondering what all of you knowledgable people here thought about it. i really don't want to replace the rim... but i am planning on commuting with it a lot in the near future. if anyone can give me some insight on what to do, or any advice, that would be great. [they are 700x23 if that is important]
thanks!
i have been able to find some to very little information about this specific issue on the internet. i called a couple lbs's and one said to not worry about it at all and one said that it may become an issue in the future, but it isn't a reason not to ride it. i was wondering what all of you knowledgable people here thought about it. i really don't want to replace the rim... but i am planning on commuting with it a lot in the near future. if anyone can give me some insight on what to do, or any advice, that would be great. [they are 700x23 if that is important]
thanks!
#2
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Well, cracks around the eyelets are definitely something to keep an eye on. As long as they hold, no problem... but once one breaks the rim is ruined and you'll need to rebuild the wheel with a new rim. If you need to true the wheel, be VERY gentle with it.
As the LBS said, it's not a huge deal now, but keep an eye on it. The wheel isn't going to spontaneously disintegrate. If an eyelet fails, it will be just like a broken spoke: it will make your wheel wobble badly, but you'll probably be able to ride it a mile or five until you can get it fixed!
Of course, how long they last in the present condition will depend on how much you weigh, how much you ride, and on what kind of terrain, among other things! It could be weeks or it could be years New rims aren't too expensive. I managed to get two brand-new Mavic MA2 rims for about $20 in traded parts a couple of weeks ago. The Sun CR18 is a fairly cheap but well-regarded strong 700C rim for touring/commuter road bikes, for whenever you need to replace yours.
As the LBS said, it's not a huge deal now, but keep an eye on it. The wheel isn't going to spontaneously disintegrate. If an eyelet fails, it will be just like a broken spoke: it will make your wheel wobble badly, but you'll probably be able to ride it a mile or five until you can get it fixed!
Of course, how long they last in the present condition will depend on how much you weigh, how much you ride, and on what kind of terrain, among other things! It could be weeks or it could be years New rims aren't too expensive. I managed to get two brand-new Mavic MA2 rims for about $20 in traded parts a couple of weeks ago. The Sun CR18 is a fairly cheap but well-regarded strong 700C rim for touring/commuter road bikes, for whenever you need to replace yours.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 119
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
i'm about 6'3" and weigh 175 lbs. i will be riding on my local streets Toledo, OH-- which, for the most part, are in decent/fair to poor condition for cycling. i appreciate your recommendations for rims... it will no doubt get replaced sometime in the bike's future, i'm just trying to limit the money flow to this bike until i can actually RIDE it -- considering it is my first "real" bike. heh. i'll be around to ask a lot more questions so any info is highly appreciated. Thanks!
#4
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by GoJacob
i'm about 6'3" and weigh 175 lbs. i will be riding on my local streets Toledo, OH-- which, for the most part, are in decent/fair to poor condition for cycling. i appreciate your recommendations for rims... it will no doubt get replaced sometime in the bike's future, i'm just trying to limit the money flow to this bike until i can actually RIDE it -- considering it is my first "real" bike. heh. i'll be around to ask a lot more questions so any info is highly appreciated. Thanks!
Just keep an eye on it, and know that you're going to have to sink $50+ in it at some point, if you get an LBS to do the work... or less if you're willing to try your hand at wheelbuilding
And welcome to Bike Forums. I'm originally from Michigan myself. I miss the midwest... except maybe the potholes.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SE Minnesota
Posts: 12,275
Bikes: are better than yours.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
If it were my bike and I wanted a =reliable= ride for commuting, the rim would be gone. I had an MA3 crack around the eyelet at about 2300 miles and it put the rim way out of true and it wasn't going back into true without a fight.
My opinion, don't fool with it, replace it. YMMV.
My opinion, don't fool with it, replace it. YMMV.
#6
Really like your peaches
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I would replace it the moment it ran untrue, and it could already be running untrue. Like others have said, it won't explode on you, but you also won't be able to true it. I'd start looking for a replacement now. It's not a big job to replace a rim. Don't get a rim of the wrong size, or with the wrong number of spoke holes, or with the wrong size valve hole. If you get a very similar looking rim (instead of say a deep aero, or a double/single wall rim when yours is a single/double wall), you'll be able to reuse the spokes and save some bucks. Yes, I reuse spokes.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
Originally Posted by halfspeed
If it were my bike and I wanted a =reliable= ride for commuting, the rim would be gone. I had an MA3 crack around the eyelet at about 2300 miles and it put the rim way out of true and it wasn't going back into true without a fight.
My opinion, don't fool with it, replace it. YMMV.
My opinion, don't fool with it, replace it. YMMV.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times
in
25 Posts
It probably makes better economic sense to buy a new or slightly used wheel than to have your rim replaced. You can easily get a slightly used high end wheelset for $100 + $15 shipping on eBay. I paid that much for a beautiful Mavic wheelset that included $60 worth of new Continental tires and tubes.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 4,454
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 128 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
Three things:
1) I'm assuming the cracks at eyelets on the rear rim are at drive-side spokes, which are much higher tension than non-drive-side spokes in a typical dished rear wheel.
2) I'd agree with Dirtdrop that it's probably cheaper to just get a new rear wheel - the front is likely okay and is under much less stress than the rear.
3) I'm originally from Michigan too. I miss flatter roads where my mind can wander on long rides.
1) I'm assuming the cracks at eyelets on the rear rim are at drive-side spokes, which are much higher tension than non-drive-side spokes in a typical dished rear wheel.
2) I'd agree with Dirtdrop that it's probably cheaper to just get a new rear wheel - the front is likely okay and is under much less stress than the rear.
3) I'm originally from Michigan too. I miss flatter roads where my mind can wander on long rides.
__________________
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 119
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
thanks for all the help and suggestions. for now, i'm having a difficult enough time putting it together [my friend suggested i try my best to put it together, then bring it to her the next day so she can overlook/correct it. the wheels don't seem to be matching up with the brakes, i can't get the chain to run right on the rear derailleur, and i don't know what half of the little hex screws and bolts do on anything-- and i don't want to mess anything up so i'm not adjusting anything. it's rather frustrating trying to assemble a bike with no experience/knowledge of bikes besides common sense. i can't wait to take the thing to her and have her show me how all the stuff goes together.
i'm going to just ride the bike recreationally with the "cracked" rim. once i start relying on it for commutes, i'll look into a new wheel (one of my lbs's said they can get a new wheel on for 50 bucks at the cheapest -- so i have some options). i appreciate the suggestions and advice immensely, as i have NO real experience with bikes whatsoever, and hope to expand my knowledge on the mechanical side bicycles. i'll definitely be back for more and keep the advice pouring! thanks!
i'm going to just ride the bike recreationally with the "cracked" rim. once i start relying on it for commutes, i'll look into a new wheel (one of my lbs's said they can get a new wheel on for 50 bucks at the cheapest -- so i have some options). i appreciate the suggestions and advice immensely, as i have NO real experience with bikes whatsoever, and hope to expand my knowledge on the mechanical side bicycles. i'll definitely be back for more and keep the advice pouring! thanks!
#11
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by GoJacob
thanks for all the help and suggestions. for now, i'm having a difficult enough time putting it together [my friend suggested i try my best to put it together, then bring it to her the next day so she can overlook/correct it. the wheels don't seem to be matching up with the brakes, i can't get the chain to run right on the rear derailleur, and i don't know what half of the little hex screws and bolts do on anything-- and i don't want to mess anything up so i'm not adjusting anything. it's rather frustrating trying to assemble a bike with no experience/knowledge of bikes besides common sense. i can't wait to take the thing to her and have her show me how all the stuff goes together.
i'm going to just ride the bike recreationally with the "cracked" rim. once i start relying on it for commutes, i'll look into a new wheel (one of my lbs's said they can get a new wheel on for 50 bucks at the cheapest -- so i have some options). i appreciate the suggestions and advice immensely, as i have NO real experience with bikes whatsoever, and hope to expand my knowledge on the mechanical side bicycles. i'll definitely be back for more and keep the advice pouring! thanks!
i'm going to just ride the bike recreationally with the "cracked" rim. once i start relying on it for commutes, i'll look into a new wheel (one of my lbs's said they can get a new wheel on for 50 bucks at the cheapest -- so i have some options). i appreciate the suggestions and advice immensely, as i have NO real experience with bikes whatsoever, and hope to expand my knowledge on the mechanical side bicycles. i'll definitely be back for more and keep the advice pouring! thanks!
Also, may I recommend Bicycling Magazine's Complete Guide to Bike Maintenance and Repair? That book is only $13 and teaches you nearly every darn thing there is to know about a modern bike. Interesting, well-illustrated, and aimed at newbies.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
I'll add my recommendation that the rim and/or wheel be replaced immediately. The cracks indicate complete failure, more likely sooner than later. If you insist on riding on the old wheel, take a cell phone with you.
As noted, Nashbar and Harris have low cost decent quality replacement wheels.
You may have to "cold set" (read bend) the rear stays to get a current 8/9-speed wheel (130 mm width) to fit your probably 6/7-speed dropouts. (126 mm)
I also sounds like the bike has issues other than just the wheels so I hope your friend can get it working properly.
I'll also repeat my long-standing belief that E-bay purchases should be limited to experienced mechanics, not newbies. It's not a bargain if you don't know what you are getting and don't know how to make it work right once you get it.
As noted, Nashbar and Harris have low cost decent quality replacement wheels.
You may have to "cold set" (read bend) the rear stays to get a current 8/9-speed wheel (130 mm width) to fit your probably 6/7-speed dropouts. (126 mm)
I also sounds like the bike has issues other than just the wheels so I hope your friend can get it working properly.
I'll also repeat my long-standing belief that E-bay purchases should be limited to experienced mechanics, not newbies. It's not a bargain if you don't know what you are getting and don't know how to make it work right once you get it.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 119
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
well, after getting the bike up on a stand to put it together, everything fell into place almost flawlessly. i was very impressed with the solidity of this bike. i only ran into a few problems: one of the screws going through the rear dropouts had been bent [maybe while shipping?]at the very end so it wouldn't move... but the rear wheel went on with no problem. the rear wheel is a little whobbly, but not too bad at all... (it IS more than rideable, and (possibly due to being the newbie that i am) i couldn't feel any problems or whobbling/movement while riding.
i know i'm going to have to replace the rear wheel, but it is functioning very well for now. in the next week i'll be checking around to get a new one. the shifters are shimano light action --not sure how you guys would rate them-- but they're super smooth. everything feels like butter on this bike.
i sincerely appreciate all the input and the recommendations [especially moxfyre, your book and wheel recommendations are extremely helpful!]. thanks everyone!
i know i'm going to have to replace the rear wheel, but it is functioning very well for now. in the next week i'll be checking around to get a new one. the shifters are shimano light action --not sure how you guys would rate them-- but they're super smooth. everything feels like butter on this bike.
i sincerely appreciate all the input and the recommendations [especially moxfyre, your book and wheel recommendations are extremely helpful!]. thanks everyone!