Do headsets really fail?
#1
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Do headsets really fail?
I've been riding the same bike for the last 8 years. I've used in on trails occasionally, commuted regularly and toured on it. In all that time, I've never done any maintenance on the headset, yet it's as smooth as the day that I bought it. And to top it off, because it's a Cannondale, it is no doubt running on some in-house piece of Coda junk.
Is this normal? Do headsets usually last forever or have I just been lucky? I ask this because I'll be building out a new bike soon, and will need to chose a headset. There are some very expensive ones out there, and is there any point to buying them? Or are expensive headsets like carbon handlebars and seatposts- expensive, flashy bike porn with dubious performance benefits?
If there are real differences in headsets, can someone recommend a reasonable brand or model to be looking for? It'll be for a recreational XC bike with XT level componentry. I only weigh 140lbs and so do not require unusual levels of beefiness in my equipment.
Is this normal? Do headsets usually last forever or have I just been lucky? I ask this because I'll be building out a new bike soon, and will need to chose a headset. There are some very expensive ones out there, and is there any point to buying them? Or are expensive headsets like carbon handlebars and seatposts- expensive, flashy bike porn with dubious performance benefits?
If there are real differences in headsets, can someone recommend a reasonable brand or model to be looking for? It'll be for a recreational XC bike with XT level componentry. I only weigh 140lbs and so do not require unusual levels of beefiness in my equipment.
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It's hit-&-miss. I've had ones that outlast the bike, and ones that get center-lock (brinnelling) quickly. For the bike you're describing, if it's using threadless, look at an alloy Dia-Compe ball-bearing one. Light, servicable, reasonably cheap. Watch the seal ring on the top end, it tends to herniate out during assembly... just poke it into place with anything thin.
As for them really failing, I've seen cracked crown races and occasionally cracked lower cups.
As for them really failing, I've seen cracked crown races and occasionally cracked lower cups.
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I have had a few brinnelled headsets, particularly those which use bearing retainers instead of loose balls, which increases the contact pressure by decreasing the number of contact points. I have even been able to salvage a couple of "notchy" headsets by replacing the retainers with loose balls.
The only true failure I have experienced was on my son's 1992 Specialized HardRock; the cup which presses into the top of the head tube cracked. (No wonder I kept frustrating myself trying to obtain a good adjustment. )
The only true failure I have experienced was on my son's 1992 Specialized HardRock; the cup which presses into the top of the head tube cracked. (No wonder I kept frustrating myself trying to obtain a good adjustment. )
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
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Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Ah... you've managed to lose me already Even though I've rebuilt most of my first bike myself, because it's a Cannondale I never had reason to do anything to the headset/forks.
If a headset does fail badly, can it damage the frame or fork?
If a headset does fail badly, can it damage the frame or fork?
Last edited by womble; 09-13-06 at 09:54 AM.
#5
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The damage to the head set souldn't damage the fork, or frame. Unless it is installed sloppily and ovalizes the head tube. The damage to the head set that I have had has be to the ball bearings and races. I have had balls that disintigrated(that doesn't sound quite right), and races that dimpled or brinnelled. If that happens you will know, and it is best just to replace the headset.
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The number one issue with any headset is how it is installed. That is the leading factor on the longevity of any part. Coming from Cannondale the head tube was faced and the cups inserted the right way. In addition to the fork being prepped too. So that probably has more to do with it than luck. And you must have had a good adjustment on it too. Or just haven't noticed that it has changed over the years.
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Originally Posted by womble
Ah... you've managed to lose me already Even though I've rebuilt most of my first bike myself, because it's a Cannondale I never had reason to do anything to the headset/forks.
If a headset does fail badly, can it damage the frame or fork?
If a headset does fail badly, can it damage the frame or fork?
#8
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If you are going to do a rebuilt, consider cutting a piece of MTB inner tube and placing it over the bottom cup and then the fork race as you put the fork in. This will help stop dirt making its way into the bottom bearing. It also will slow the draining of the oil from the grease on to the fork crown. I notice Nashbar/Performance are marketing a sleeve now to do the job that a piece of innertube can do admirably.
Adjustment of the preload on the bearings will play a role in (a) how well the bike steers and (b) longevity of the bearings. In addition, some headsets have ball bearings top and bottom, while others have balls on top and roller bearings down below.
The first question to be resolved is to get the right diameter headset for the bike you are renovating/building. Then you will have to get the old cups out, and install the new ones, plus the crown race. There are answers to those questions here. Is it A'headset style or threaded stem? Oh, and if you are using balls in cages, make sure you insert them the correct way around.
Adjustment of the preload on the bearings will play a role in (a) how well the bike steers and (b) longevity of the bearings. In addition, some headsets have ball bearings top and bottom, while others have balls on top and roller bearings down below.
The first question to be resolved is to get the right diameter headset for the bike you are renovating/building. Then you will have to get the old cups out, and install the new ones, plus the crown race. There are answers to those questions here. Is it A'headset style or threaded stem? Oh, and if you are using balls in cages, make sure you insert them the correct way around.
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A headset virtually never "fails" in any way that endangers the frame or fork. Rather, its bearings and/or races can get pitted and get more friction or brinneling, which makes the turning of hte fork/handlebars less smooth and can be a problem for riding no-handed. But I've never heard of catastrophic failure of a headset.
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"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
#10
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Originally Posted by timcupery
A headset virtually never "fails" in any way that endangers the frame or fork. Rather, its bearings and/or races can get pitted and get more friction or brinneling, which makes the turning of hte fork/handlebars less smooth and can be a problem for riding no-handed. But I've never heard of catastrophic failure of a headset.