Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Senior Member corny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    My Bikes
    Cannondale R1000 Compact Drive '05
    Posts
    218
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Flipped Stem & Noticed Problem!

    Hi to all,

    I have flipped my stem in order to see if a slightly longer reach is more comfortable, and undid the four screws holding the handlebars fine. I also undid the two on the other end of the stem, holding it to the steerer, and finally the screw on the steerer to take the stem off. However, now when reinstalling it once flipped, there seems to be a gap between the FSA ring and the part below (see pic). When I tried to initially tighten the screw on the top it clicked, and now has tightened a bit further but not reduced the gap - is this normal?

    The gap here leads to the bike rocking if holding the front brake on and trying to move forward.

    Cheers in advance!

    A slightly concerned James!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Dawes Giro 300 '02-'05
    Cannondale R1000 Compact Drive '05-Present

  2. #2
    Senior Member barba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    4,083
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    It sounds like you are not pre-loading the headset (this play can be felt when you hit the front brake and get tha clunk feel). I can't quite tell, but is the steering tube extending above the headset? There needs to be a gap of a few millimeters so that the cap can push down on the stem and spacer stack.

  3. #3
    Senior Member corny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    My Bikes
    Cannondale R1000 Compact Drive '05
    Posts
    218
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hi barba, thanks for the reply.

    Is the headset the end/top of the stem , and the steerer tube the part inside?

    Cheers,

    James
    Dawes Giro 300 '02-'05
    Cannondale R1000 Compact Drive '05-Present

  4. #4
    Senior Member barba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    4,083
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hi James,

    The stem is the piece that you flipped (attached to the bars). The steerer is the top of the fork (the part the stem clamps to). In order to work smoothly, the headset (the piece circled in your pic) has to have the right pressure on it so the steering will be smooth. The cap on top is used to put pressure on the stem and spacers bellow it to get the right pressure on the headset before you clamp the stem down with the bolts (after that the cap doesn't really do much). In order for the cap to do its job it needs to be able to press down directly on the stem. If the steerer is too long, all it does is press down on the steerer tube of the fork. No pressure means a loose headset and that clunk when you hit the front brake.

    Parktool.com has a good repair section that will walk you through the procedure if my ramblings over coffee are not making much sense.

    Cheers,
    barba

  5. #5
    Call me The Breeze I_bRAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Corbyville Ontario
    My Bikes
    2004 Litespeed Siena, 1996 Litespeed Obed, 1992 Miele (unknown model), 1982 Meile Uno LS.
    Posts
    3,699
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Flipping the stem should have no effect on the required steer tube length if you're using the same amount of spacers though. I suspect incorrect tightening sequence. The top bolt has to be tightened before the clamping bolts are.

  6. #6
    Senior Member barba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    4,083
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by I_bRAD
    Flipping the stem should have no effect on the required steer tube length if you're using the same amount of spacers though. I suspect incorrect tightening sequence. The top bolt has to be tightened before the clamping bolts are.
    Agreed, but in the pic it kind of looks like something is sticking up above the stem. OP, did you take a spacer out by any chance to get the bars lower?

  7. #7
    Senior Member corny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    My Bikes
    Cannondale R1000 Compact Drive '05
    Posts
    218
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for your help guys, the problem is incorrect tightening sequence - i did the clamp bolts first and hence the other bolt could not put pressure down. I shall correct this now and I hope I haven't caused damage!!!
    Dawes Giro 300 '02-'05
    Cannondale R1000 Compact Drive '05-Present

  8. #8
    Senior Member corny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    My Bikes
    Cannondale R1000 Compact Drive '05
    Posts
    218
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Having corrected the tightening sequence, there were no clicks (good!) and the jerky front brake syndrome has disappeared - thankyou both for your help.

    Do you think my tightening in the wrong sequence has caused damage? Secondly, how tight should the top screw be?

    Cheers again,

    James
    Dawes Giro 300 '02-'05
    Cannondale R1000 Compact Drive '05-Present

  9. #9
    Call me The Breeze I_bRAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Corbyville Ontario
    My Bikes
    2004 Litespeed Siena, 1996 Litespeed Obed, 1992 Miele (unknown model), 1982 Meile Uno LS.
    Posts
    3,699
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The clicking was (hopefully) the star nut slipping in the steer tube. Probably not a problem unless it's a carbon steer tube.

    You should adjust the bearing preload to allow free rotation without any play. Test this by applying the front brakes and trying to push the bike back and forth. Once it's set up, then you tighten the clamp screws.

  10. #10
    Senior Member corny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    My Bikes
    Cannondale R1000 Compact Drive '05
    Posts
    218
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks, thats what I have now done. Its not overly tight, although when first loosening it, it was fairly loose! The bike used to rock a little before so steering should now be smooth - and the rocking is how I identified the problem!!

    Thanks I bRAD and all other contributors!
    Dawes Giro 300 '02-'05
    Cannondale R1000 Compact Drive '05-Present

  11. #11
    hello roadfix's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Los Angeles
    My Bikes
    thank you for asking
    Posts
    18,502
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by corny
    Thanks for your help guys, the problem is incorrect tightening sequence - i did the clamp bolts first and hence the other bolt could not put pressure down.
    That is a very common mistake people make. Glad you figured it out...
    .cinelli.olympic.surly.long.haul.trucker.kona.ku.surly.steamroller.
    .litespeed.classic.litespeed.firenze.bianchi.pista.dean.colonel.plus.more.

  12. #12
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    DC / Maryland suburbs
    My Bikes
    Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
    Posts
    4,172
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by The Fixer
    That is a very common mistake people make. Glad you figured it out...
    Yep! If you're used to quill stems, you don't realize that a threadless stem does double-duty as preload for the headset Sounds like it's all fixed now though.
    My bikes | Linux and Python stuff | Photo gallery

    Sheldon Brown, I miss you. Thanks for the advice, ideas, humor, and infectious enthusiasm for everything bikes...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •