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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 09-24-06, 07:28 AM   #1
cedrik
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Seized Crank/spindle bolt

This problem is starting to really annoy me (and I'm being polite )

A while ago I noticed my crank arm starting to wobble (the left side, i.e. non-chain ring side). I initially thought it was a loose bolt so tightened it, over the next few months it persistantly came back, sometimes the bolt was loose and others it wasn't but each time I was able to undo it and tighten it again.

I then noticed that the wobble was side to side as well as back to front so took the crank off and saw that the square hole was on it's way to becomming round... I replaced it and made a note to get a new one.

Now, with a new crank arm I could finally replace the old one.

Could I remove the old one? Could I hell! I ended up rounding the 8mm socket trying so ended up sawing the crank arm off. This is where I am now, with a bolt firmly stuck in the spindle. Nothing will get it loose.

I've tried penetrating oil and pouring hot water over it but to no avail. It is currently soaking in wd40 (there may be something better available in the UK?) and I am going to try the painstripper heat gun on it (seen this recommending on this forum)

Does anyone have any ideas or advice? Should I just give it up, and grind the spindle down to get the bottom bracket off and replace the whole lot? This last I would rather not do.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Sam
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Old 09-24-06, 07:31 AM   #2
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Oh, and I am undoing it clockwise which I'm pretty sure is the right way for the non-chainring side. The chainring side undoes very easily counter-clockwise.
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Old 09-24-06, 08:08 AM   #3
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Well, try it counterclockwise because BOTH bolts are right-hand thread. You just tightened it down.

BTW, be careful when installing the new crank arms. Apply grease (debated topic, I think you should), and tighten it down super hard (check torque spec and try to abide by it. LOTS of torque needed). If it loosens, the taper will round out and you're back on square one.
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Old 09-24-06, 08:25 AM   #4
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haha. Definitely try turning it the other way. Use a 6-point socket to get maximum grip.
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Old 09-24-06, 08:58 AM   #5
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OK my bad (hangs head in shame) I always thought one turned one way the other the other way...

Anyway, problem still stands... Is there anything other than brute force that can help me now?
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Old 09-24-06, 09:02 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cedrik
OK my bad (hangs head in shame) I always thought one turned one way the other the other way...

Anyway, problem still stands... Is there anything other than brute force that can help me now?
For future ref:

Left pedal= LH thread
Right pedal= RH thread
Left BB= RH thread
Right BB= LH thread

All the rest are RH threads.

Did you try some extra leverage? An old steel MTB handlebar makes for some good leverage when slipped over the end of a ratchet. (you might not want to try this if you don't have one of those lifetime-free replacement warranties on your ratchet)
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Old 09-24-06, 09:21 AM   #7
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Cheers for that... Just been outside a wailed on it with a mole wrench and hammer (slightly limited tool box I'm afraid) and it's finally off! Hoorah, maybe tomorrow I can cycle into work on a decent raod bike rather that my Dad's old tourer which is older than me 30+ years! (A little heavy to say the least)
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Old 09-24-06, 09:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LóFarkas
Well, try it counterclockwise because BOTH bolts are right-hand thread. You just tightened it down.
Haha.
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Old 09-24-06, 12:47 PM   #9
simplify
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(A little heavy to say the least)
You, or the tourer?

Congratulations for getting that bolt off! Another lesson learned!
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